ferg

ok its time for my first oil change, how many quarts? and 5w20 is what its saying to put in the car, i got the car about 2 months ago and i been adding oil in it about 1/2 a quart a month, that seem right?

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

4 quarts usually does the trick. All depends on how much of the oil you're able to drain out of the car. (keep in mind the oil coolers hold some)

Mazurfer

Sorry...............but you shouldn't just blindly add oil. You should check it every two gas fillups or so and bring it back just to the full mark on the dipstick.

In terms of oil changes, yeah.........it's about 4 as Hoorhay(sp?) points out.........this is unless you jack up one side and then the other to get it out of the oil coolers. Even then........you should add just enough to bring it to just about the full level. Although not as bad as no oil, too much oil is a bad thing as well.

mysql

oil usage is not determined by elapsed time, but driving style and miles.

Mazurfer

Was I not clear?

ferg

i meant to say that its taking a quart of oil after 2 months , because of my driving style and i bring it back to full, i check every week because i full up 2 times a week

ferg

i know theres alot of talk about what kinda oils and filters lol so im not gonig there, ill just go with my gut

Mazurfer

Mazurfer

I'm using 5w30 for the cooler months, will probably move to 10w30 this Summer........as you know.........Florida has no Spring!

ferg

yeah south florida is hot

Old Rotor

I would not run 5w20w oil in a HOT climate. In my Mazda manual it says they recommend 5w20w but in Hot areas they say use a heavier oil. You might want 10w30w or even a 10w40w if you see 100F. Rotary engines run very HOT.

Icemark

Old Rotor has it exactly right.

Also if you are doing the oil change yourself, poke a hole in the top of the filter 15 minutes before removing it. The anti-drain back valve in the Mazda filters works great and of you don't poke a hole, the oil filter will be filled with oil when you remove it and dump oil every where.

Poking the hole releases the drain valve and lets all that oil run down to the pan instead of the engine compartment.

Old rotary owner trick.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Use 10w40 for your area.

I live in NYC and even I use 10w40. go figure.

byez

Poke a hole directly center of the top of the filter or off to the side?

Potentiated

I live in southern Cal, my car has 125,000 miles with no problems, and I've only ever used 5w20 with no pre-mixing. But I drive conservative and mostly fwy. Also important is that I warm up my car for 15-20 min on fwy cruising and never go above 4000 rpm while warming up. Other than myself, I don't know of anyone whose idea of warming up a car is more than 5 min. In a couple of threads a while ago, people discussed the importance of proper warm-up and that most owners probably thought they warmed up their car but really didn't. BTW, I redline my car to burn out carbon deposits almost every time out but only after 15-20 min of warming up.

If you've got the MSP16 reflash (which increases oil injection) and you switch to a thicker oil, then I suggest you do not pre-mix. My feeling is your car will already be protected just fine, even in south Florida.

Lots of people in this forum do both, I know, but we also know about Mazmart's examination of expo's motor at 112,000 miles, which showed a lot of carbon deposits that were thought to be from pre-mix. I believe expo's response was he was going to pre-mix a smaller amount, and I think a lot of the people here agreed. It's a balance. Not enough oil protection and your apex seals wear down and you lose compression. Too much oil and you'll get increased carbon deposits. Too thick of an oil and you lose some mpg but probably negligible.

Thicker oil or pre-mix, but I say not both. No need because of the downsides. Unless you drive the hell out of your car and/or you're not willing to have the patience to do an extended warm-up like I do. Expo tracks his car so that means he also probably drives hard on the streets as well. I'm going to guess that Nygps also drives hard. I don't drive hard.

Take all the info in and make your own decision.

Icemark

Either... you just want something that will release the seal and let air leak in.

Air gets in = oil running out

L337fpc

iTrader: (4)

I do the same, but mainly because I do alot of short trips during the week.

Also, lately in PA is been very cold so I let my '04 warm up for at least 5 min or until the needle jumps off of 'C'.

Potentiated

I should have said it more explicitly but you can't rely on the engine temperature indicator. It only takes 3-5 min for the engine operating temp to move up to normal but that doesn't mean the oil is everywhere where it needs to be and it doesn't mean the oil is at optimum temperature.

That's why I cruise for 15 to 20 min just to be sure, and I think that's a major reason why my engine is running so well at my mileage.

PTY RX-8

Hi, Im from Panama and it is as hot as Florida or even hotter, I was recommended 20W-50 Castrol. Thicker oil will protect ur engine, and also, some Slick 50, just in case U run out of oil, sure U wont.
Good Luck.

Potentiated

Seems that 20 might be too thick when the oil is cold and the engine is trying to establish a dynamic layer of oil in the engine internals. I wouldn't risk going that high. 5 or 10 only.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

thicker oil protects you better.

the reason why they have multi weight oil is for COLD area startup lubrication, if I live in Florida or something, I would use 20w50 or just straight 40 oil all year long.

byez

It is said that most wear occurs during cold starts. If this is the case why use a 20w50 instead of a 5w50? You get worse fuel economy and more engine wear with the 20 weight during warm up.

Personally, I am going to be running 0w30 this winter and switching to 0w40 in the summer.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

not if the outside temp is like 80-90 degrees almost all the time.

cuz the thing is :

Say, comparing a 0w30 oil to 10w30 oil, they flow almost exactly the same at certain temp.

So if ur outside temp is almost always warm, it doesnt really matter if u use 0w30 or 5w30 or 10w30. cuz at lets say 70 degrees *cold* startup, they all flow almost the same.

oh lemme correct myself in my previous post. I was trying to say 20w50 protects better for warm climates. not for places that might see something lower than 50 degrees.

no one wanna use 5w50 because they put MAD additives into them. and when heated, those additives wear out FAST, no additives = garbage oil = no good.

Potentiated

Yep, that's why I agree with byez here on the 1st number. But because of viscosity index breakdown, I don't think I would go for more than a 30 point spread between the 2 numbers. I have always used only 5W20 (15 point spread) but I may consider going to 5W30 (25 point spread). I think 0W30 (30 point spread) is fine but 0W40 (40 point spread) might be a bit much. If you use a greater spread, I guess just make sure you do your oil change earlier to reduce the risk from earlier viscosity index breakdown.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Well, they still have to pass test in order to put that API logo on their oil.

even crazy oil like 5w50 should be able to last thru MOST regular oil change interval, which should be, IMO, around 5K under NORMAL driving condition.

But consider Rotary engine runs MAD HOT ... dunno if I should try 5w50

I got some 0w40 mobil1 at home, got it mad cheap so why not use it ? I change my oil every 2-3K now so Im pretty sure Im ok.