You will gain less from our F/C kit over there.
We are correcting the N.America and EURO4 mapping issues. the EURO3 maps are better. Frankly, I believe the map you have over there is really the one that actually makes 238HP. Over here we see that this figure is BS.

I can extrapolate perhaps a 12-15HP gain, but without your ECU to test with it is only speculation..

Regarding the oil injection matter, the info is derived by a couple of dealer mechanics snooping around for me.
Sorry, no names!
As for details, the report is from Mazda Canada, based on the tests they had the dealer do. Compression, ECU, OBD, etc.
Mazda Canada seem to be wel versed in the matter as they told the mechanic what tests to do, and immediately after he sent them the results they made the diagnosis and asked him to crate the engine for return.
If you can through these forums you will see a few others who have encountered this. In the first ones in the USA MAzda sent a couple of techs from their California facility to inspect the cars and engines at the dealers.
Until we can get our hands on an engine that has failed this way and strip and inspect it we can only speculate about the details of the failure.
The common factors seem to be it usually happens after around 3,000 miles, it usually happens on the highway at a sustained speed of around 80mph+ of a duration of at least 1/2 hour.

SPECULATION:
I wonder iof the engine oil light coming on is really just a false reading, or is there a real problem?
I routinely drive on the highway at 130-145kmh (80-90mph) and frequently see the oil light come on in the dash. I have dealt with it by keeping the oil scrupulously topped and "wiggling" the car when i see the light.

The conditions that cause thie light to come on are very similar to those when the oil injection failure occurs.
Perhaps there really IS a problem under this condition and the injectors get starved for oil?
/SPECULATION

 

Canzoomer, the above quote is what I'd probably do too.

You did a beautiful job answering my questions too, now I just can't WAIT until you get this device on the market! I'm champin at the bit to get one here!!! Also sounds like there are 20 or more "buyers" out there just like me... in fact, I'm going to post a poll just to see how many people are planning on buying one.

You are DA MAN... thanks!!!!!

 

Canzoomer, I am confused about some of the things I've read on this and other threads. I would appreciate your input...

1) You've said that the engine runs rich below approx. 3500 and above approx. 6700 RPM. Does that mean that the engine will "waste" fuel when being ran above and below those RPM? In other words... if I'm interested in MPG, would I be better off running in 5th gear (2000 RPM) @ 30 MPH or in 3rd gear (4500 RPM) @ 30 MPH?

2) Does your stage 1 mod void warranty or do dealers just want to see a mod? I've read this entire thread, this may have been answered but I can't find an answer.

I think that's all the questions I have. :-) Thanks in advance.

 

Canzoomer, what have you seen in terms of mileage? Has it gone up or down with your mods?

 

I'm confused. How many cats does the 8 have in the midpipe?

 

Glad someone did the abs sensor trick to the front.

BTW, have you tested in 120+ degree weather yet?

That's my summer out here

 

Good work Canzoomer.

Vince

 

Zoomer, another thought/question: If the "Stage 2" fuel and ignition mod runs 1800 degrees plus and will fry the cat, wouldn't an aftermarket, high-flow ceramic cat solve this problem?

 

HeTz or wakeech, could you sticky this thread please?

 

1) At 4,000 to 6,000rpm the stock ECU map is very lean, so we can not get you more mileage there.
At 80mph, in 6th, you are over 4,000rpm.
So, forget about highway cruising mileage changing much , if at all.
But, getting to this speed, going through the gears, you would benefit.

What you will gain mostly is around town, going through the gears.
IF you shift all the time below 3500rpm, you will not gain either. But then you should be getting 18-21mpg now.
If you drive like me you will floor it lots, run high revs, and you will be getting around 15-16mpg, and this WILL improve.

2) As such, if a mod does not cause a failure, there is no reason to see the warranty voided. However, the dealer is well within their rights to refuse to work on it if they see mods.

I suggest it is more hassle than it is worth to take it to them that way. It is a 15 minute job to remove the device. We designed it that way.
Unless you have a dealer service department that are flexible enough to handle the concept.

The same things apply as aftermarket intakes, exhaust, etc.

 

Canzoomer.
Sounds great.

I thought you previously mentioned routing a wiring harness through the firewall. Is this included in the 15 minute (easy removal)?

Also, where does the unit mount? Do we need to drill mounting points, or does it mount well on some existing points.

Lastly, will you make the prom (if there is one) removable so we can get updates from you if needed? (If you use an EProm, I can reprogram it myself if you make the bins available for updates).

Thanks
Reeko

 

Only if the coatings can take the higher temps.

My work using the "safety range" of below 1750F is based on what they tell me.

 

No, it is behind the water bottle for the windshield washers.
But one can tuck the cable behind the bottle and it is invisible.
Add 5 minutes to take it completely out..

The unit mounts inside the passenger side, either put it in the glove box, and run the wires over the back edge of the box, or mount on a metal clip that we supply, behind the glove box.
If on brackets you can use an existing post and nut that is there already.

We will do exchanges. Advance exchange possible if we can charge your credit card a security deposit.

Basically what our value is the maps and engineering.
Anybody can disassemble it and copy the hardware. We are encrypting the maps. One could still sensor the heck out of a car and steal these, but then they could do their own too..

I think copy protection stinks, but what can you do?

 

Canzoomer

You mentioned earlier in answering one of my questions that you felt that the Euro 4 ECU that supposedly is 238hp is not correct in its power and you said that is was B/S .

In your learned opinion what do you feel are the real HP - KW OUTPUTS ???

Once again a big thanks from down and under .

michael

 

Does this chip defeat the "safe" mode the car goes into when not moving, or do the revised fuel maps only affect the mapping when the car senses its at the right speed?


What kind of rwhp can one expect from the Stage 1?

 

Ok, first of all, GREAT JOB CANZOOMER!!

Now my question: You've mentioned mid pipe and cat back exhaust. What about a header? I'm planning on getting a header like the RE Amemiya one and probably lose the cats or go with a high flow high temp unit plus a cat-back, essentially a complete exhaust. I'm planning on staying off boost for at least some time. How much gains with this mods and your best unit? Will this be an optimal setup? Can I hit 250 whp?

Edit: Another question: How will your mods affect engine longevity and reliability?

 

Obviously I have not had an engine on an engine dyno.
However, based on normal driveline losses and what the engine puts out both stock and with mods, I believe the stock output of hte North American car so far is around 210-225HP.
In KW that is 160 to 165.

 

I do not quite understand the "safe mode" question.
Some people, quoted by Bern at Rotary News claimed that if you dyno the RX-8 it will detect an ABS fault and create a check engine condition and go into safe mode.
I have reproduced that and it is true.
It is quite simple to defeat that and prevent the check engine and resulting safe mode.
Best way to do this is to disconnect the front wheel speed sensors, split the output from the rear ones, and feed it into the input on the traction control box for the front ones. That way the traction system never generates the fault and the ECU is happy.
The traction control system ( ABS and DSC) box is under the ECU box, and the leads from the wheel sensors are not hard to find.

We saw rear wheel horsepower in our testing of around 205-210 using our fuel/ air mapping. When we add igntion and more agressive maps we get 214-223.
This is tested at 2,800 foot altitude at around 68F on 91 octane Shell gas.

Both on Mustang dyno in the shop, and on the road with the GTech. You get better results with the road tests as the car cools better, and gets some ram air effect at speed.
Hence the variation.
I suspended dyno testing as it is much harder on the car.

 

I do not know what a header will gain you.
I do know that a rather nice looking one was already made over in Japan, and they reported no or insignificant gains. The stock header is not a bad design, and considering the space limitations it is probably close to as good as it gets.
If one were to play a bit with exhaust porting maybe a bit more can be had. Adam at RX7 Specialties seems to think so, and he builds race rotary engines for guys who drag race.

Maybe with a full exhaust system , properly matched, you might gain with a header..

Time will tell, I guess.

 

I don't have access to the wiring manual yet, but....

How can you be sure the TCS or ECU is not looking for a difference between the front and rears? They would be getting the same pulse, and there would be no difference in pulses.

Just a question.... not trying to hate or anything!!! I was one of the people that actually suggested this early on, and I'm glad you can see a diff... but it is it close to real world testing?

 

Awsome. I was hoping someone was able to explore the RX8 and its NA possibilities.

I believe I will definately be getting your ecu and ignition in the near future.

 

As I said, we tried with DC disabled, and with ABS disabled, and with the rear wheel speed sensors going to both traction unit inputs.
Results were consistent and similar.
Then we went to road testing and got similar results, and we saw similar ECU responses on fuel/air, ignition timing, and so on.

I CAN trigger an ABS fault on a dyno.
But it is not so hard to prevent.

No hating felt. We simply have put a lot of work into this, to the point where my wife is making comments about "that car"

Now we are making parts kits, docs, and so on.
And soon the work will be mostly over.. please..

 

Euro Stage 4 isnt 238bhp, its 228bhp, or 231ps. Although it sounds like this may be 'real world' very close to US's 239bhp.

 

Canzoomer, if this helps clear up the australian map for you, or it may just be lies...

 

Wow, was this last post a thread stopper or what? 2 days and no posts on this HUGE thread.

Canzoomer, any word on release dates for your ECU mod(s) yet?