New guy here, have some questions
08-05-2010, 12:00 AM
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New guy here, have some questions
So i just bought a 04 mazda rx8 today in showroom condition with 43k on it for 10k.....3 k below kbb value 
i have a few questions and i would appreciate if someone could help me out.
I've read about all the problems this car has (flooding, bad motors, etc)
1. How can i tell if my motor has been replaced? The previous owner said it was replaced by the dealership under warranty and i want to see if its true or not.
2. How can i tell if recalls have been performed?
3. How can i tell if the PCM has been reflashed to the latest software updates to correct all the flooding issues, etc?
4. If no recalls have been performed or if my engine decides to go out, would it still be corrected for for free since im not the original owner?
5. What kind of oil should i use?
thanks alot guys
i have a few questions and i would appreciate if someone could help me out.
I've read about all the problems this car has (flooding, bad motors, etc)
1. How can i tell if my motor has been replaced? The previous owner said it was replaced by the dealership under warranty and i want to see if its true or not.
2. How can i tell if recalls have been performed?
3. How can i tell if the PCM has been reflashed to the latest software updates to correct all the flooding issues, etc?
4. If no recalls have been performed or if my engine decides to go out, would it still be corrected for for free since im not the original owner?
5. What kind of oil should i use?
thanks alot guys
08-06-2010, 01:55 PM
#4
There will be a blue metal stamp on the front cover of the engine. If its a factory Reman. use 10w-40
1. How can i tell if my motor has been replaced? The previous owner said it was replaced by the dealership under warranty and i want to see if its true or not.
there will be a blue metal stamp on the front cover. As seen here
2. How can i tell if recalls have been performed?
Call the dealer
3. How can i tell if the PCM has been reflashed to the latest software updates to correct all the flooding issues, etc?
Call the dealer
4. If no recalls have been performed or if my engine decides to go out, would it still be corrected for for free since im not the original owner?
100k warranty on the engine no matter who owns it.
5. What kind of oil should i use?
Your call. I use 10w-30 castrol GTX. Others use 10w-40. I use dino vs synthetic for my own reasons. but it doesn't matter much. Search around for engine oil theres about a million threads on it.
IMO anyone who uses 5w-xx are morons.
1. How can i tell if my motor has been replaced? The previous owner said it was replaced by the dealership under warranty and i want to see if its true or not.
there will be a blue metal stamp on the front cover. As seen here
2. How can i tell if recalls have been performed?
Call the dealer
3. How can i tell if the PCM has been reflashed to the latest software updates to correct all the flooding issues, etc?
Call the dealer
4. If no recalls have been performed or if my engine decides to go out, would it still be corrected for for free since im not the original owner?
100k warranty on the engine no matter who owns it.
5. What kind of oil should i use?
Your call. I use 10w-30 castrol GTX. Others use 10w-40. I use dino vs synthetic for my own reasons. but it doesn't matter much. Search around for engine oil theres about a million threads on it.
IMO anyone who uses 5w-xx are morons.
08-06-2010, 02:03 PM
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1 call out: If you get past powertrain warranty (which you aren't from mileage, but might be from time), and still in the 8yr 100k core, an engine replacement ISN'T free. The 8yr/100k warranty only covers the engine core itself, what is in the picture above. You still have to pay for gaskets, fluids, clips, etc... that have to be replaced along with the engine, but are not actually part of it. This catches alot of people off guard. The total cost of this other stuff is usually $500-600.
This thread might have some other information of use to you: https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/new-potential-owners-start-here-202454/
This thread might have some other information of use to you: https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/new-potential-owners-start-here-202454/
08-06-2010, 02:09 PM
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Not really. Just a definition of what is covered and what isn't. The standard powertrain still covers that stuff, but if you are past that, you only get core. They didn't even have to give us that much.
08-06-2010, 03:25 PM
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I didn't catch that. I think Shady meant the other side of the number, not the 5w side.
The first number is the "cold" weight, and is largely irrelevant as it only matters within the first couple minutes of starting, and only in colder ambient temperatures.
The differences are always discussed between
**w20
**w30
**w40
**w50
One reason I am conducting the survey though, is to see if we can get to a point where we have enough data that might point to an ideal weight to use, rather than just opinion.
We might always sit at "it doesnt matter", because other factors matter so much more.
The first number is the "cold" weight, and is largely irrelevant as it only matters within the first couple minutes of starting, and only in colder ambient temperatures.
The differences are always discussed between
**w20
**w30
**w40
**w50
One reason I am conducting the survey though, is to see if we can get to a point where we have enough data that might point to an ideal weight to use, rather than just opinion.
We might always sit at "it doesnt matter", because other factors matter so much more.
08-06-2010, 03:34 PM
#12
I meant both the cold and warm, weights.
Most people do not sit in their parking spot for the 5 or 6 mins it takes to get the oil heated(sitting in 70 degree temps in a covered stall/garage). They might wait 30 seconds or so. In those 2 or 3 minutes of driving when the oil will be warming is when its at its a low viscosity, thats when damage can take place.
The average person has 2 cold starts per day with barely any lubrication, driving off into the sunset. Factor in those times when you were late and you let the car warm up for 5 seconds then boom your off you have even more potential damage.
so you figure 2 cold starts per day x 365 with an average of 2 minutes to get the oil up to temps. That's 1460 minutes per year that your engine is seeing 5w in its rotating parts.
That's my theory at least, I could be wrong.
Most people do not sit in their parking spot for the 5 or 6 mins it takes to get the oil heated(sitting in 70 degree temps in a covered stall/garage). They might wait 30 seconds or so. In those 2 or 3 minutes of driving when the oil will be warming is when its at its a low viscosity, thats when damage can take place.
The average person has 2 cold starts per day with barely any lubrication, driving off into the sunset. Factor in those times when you were late and you let the car warm up for 5 seconds then boom your off you have even more potential damage.
so you figure 2 cold starts per day x 365 with an average of 2 minutes to get the oil up to temps. That's 1460 minutes per year that your engine is seeing 5w in its rotating parts.
That's my theory at least, I could be wrong.
08-06-2010, 04:44 PM
#13
Vtak just kicked in yo!!
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I meant both the cold and warm, weights.
Most people do not sit in their parking spot for the 5 or 6 mins it takes to get the oil heated(sitting in 70 degree temps in a covered stall/garage). They might wait 30 seconds or so. In those 2 or 3 minutes of driving when the oil will be warming is when its at its a low viscosity, thats when damage can take place.
The average person has 2 cold starts per day with barely any lubrication, driving off into the sunset. Factor in those times when you were late and you let the car warm up for 5 seconds then boom your off you have even more potential damage.
so you figure 2 cold starts per day x 365 with an average of 2 minutes to get the oil up to temps. That's 1460 minutes per year that your engine is seeing 5w in its rotating parts.
That's my theory at least, I could be wrong.
Most people do not sit in their parking spot for the 5 or 6 mins it takes to get the oil heated(sitting in 70 degree temps in a covered stall/garage). They might wait 30 seconds or so. In those 2 or 3 minutes of driving when the oil will be warming is when its at its a low viscosity, thats when damage can take place.
The average person has 2 cold starts per day with barely any lubrication, driving off into the sunset. Factor in those times when you were late and you let the car warm up for 5 seconds then boom your off you have even more potential damage.
so you figure 2 cold starts per day x 365 with an average of 2 minutes to get the oil up to temps. That's 1460 minutes per year that your engine is seeing 5w in its rotating parts.
That's my theory at least, I could be wrong.
Im not feeding you a line of BS here, but Im one of those people that hot or cold outside, I start my car before taking off; just a habit I guess. Id say 60-70% of the time my car idles for at least 2-5 minutes as I BS with someone as it warms up lol
So its worked for me. Reason I never switched weight, to be 100% honest with you, is because first off there's so many opinions on the topic that I didnt know who to believe, especially when veteren respected members even have different opinions.
Next, by the time I joined this forum, my engine had seen 35K miles of 5w20 and I didnt want to just change weight on a whim.
Now Im at higher mileage and theres still no proven better method, so I just follow the owners manual and call it a day. My car sits now anyways (I put 6000 miles on it last year - and 800 miles this year so far). So Im not too worried about it at this point anyways.
08-06-2010, 04:57 PM
#14
Your theory makes sense, but any cold start or cold motor revving on any car will cause problems. I guess I may be lucky because Ive always allowed my car to sit before taking off. IF its cold, I at least let the idle get down to 1500 rpms (winter starts). I do not exceed 2500Rpms until the car has driven for at least a few miles and my coolant temps are warm. Plus Im an extremely spirited driver and my car has seen more redlines in a month than most Rx8 owners see in a year.
Im not feeding you a line of BS here, but Im one of those people that hot or cold outside, I start my car before taking off; just a habit I guess. Id say 60-70% of the time my car idles for at least 2-5 minutes as I BS with someone as it warms up lol
So its worked for me. Reason I never switched weight, to be 100% honest with you, is because first off there's so many opinions on the topic that I didnt know who to believe, especially when veteren respected members even have different opinions.
Next, by the time I joined this forum, my engine had seen 35K miles of 5w20 and I didnt want to just change weight on a whim.
Now Im at higher mileage and theres still no proven better method, so I just follow the owners manual and call it a day. My car sits now anyways (I put 6000 miles on it last year - and 800 miles this year so far). So Im not too worried about it at this point anyways.
Im not feeding you a line of BS here, but Im one of those people that hot or cold outside, I start my car before taking off; just a habit I guess. Id say 60-70% of the time my car idles for at least 2-5 minutes as I BS with someone as it warms up lol
So its worked for me. Reason I never switched weight, to be 100% honest with you, is because first off there's so many opinions on the topic that I didnt know who to believe, especially when veteren respected members even have different opinions.
Next, by the time I joined this forum, my engine had seen 35K miles of 5w20 and I didnt want to just change weight on a whim.
Now Im at higher mileage and theres still no proven better method, so I just follow the owners manual and call it a day. My car sits now anyways (I put 6000 miles on it last year - and 800 miles this year so far). So Im not too worried about it at this point anyways.
Sadly most of our forum members are not that smart.
I think the largest problem with out engines is each one is different. they are all hand built with tolerances ranging all over the place.
Most people have remans which use used parts and have those same tolerances from all over.
Sadly there's really no right or wrong way, its a crap shoot.
Ok enough thread jacking. lol.
08-06-2010, 07:44 PM
#15
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I meant both the cold and warm, weights.
Most people do not sit in their parking spot for the 5 or 6 mins it takes to get the oil heated(sitting in 70 degree temps in a covered stall/garage). They might wait 30 seconds or so. In those 2 or 3 minutes of driving when the oil will be warming is when its at its a low viscosity, thats when damage can take place.
[snip]
That's my theory at least, I could be wrong.
Most people do not sit in their parking spot for the 5 or 6 mins it takes to get the oil heated(sitting in 70 degree temps in a covered stall/garage). They might wait 30 seconds or so. In those 2 or 3 minutes of driving when the oil will be warming is when its at its a low viscosity, thats when damage can take place.
[snip]
That's my theory at least, I could be wrong.
When the oil is cold it's thick. When 5wX oil is cold, it's not as thin as SAE 5 when hot. It's as thick as SAE 5 would be when cold...which is probably thicker than X would be when hot. If you were to use straight 20 (or 30 or 40) oil, then unless you let the engine warm up before driving you'd be doing damage during those first few minutes.
Since you don't drive hard til the engine is warm, oil being thin enough to circulate when cold is more important than film strength when cold. IMHO, the only argument against 5w would be whether the compromises involved in a 5wX adversely affect the quality of the oil when it's warm and supposed to be X.
Ken
Last edited by ken-x8; 08-06-2010 at 07:47 PM.
08-06-2010, 08:09 PM
#16
Does having it backwards count as wrong?
When the oil is cold it's thick. When 5wX oil is cold, it's not as thin as SAE 5 when hot. It's as thick as SAE 5 would be when cold...which is probably thicker than X would be when hot. If you were to use straight 20 (or 30 or 40) oil, then unless you let the engine warm up before driving you'd be doing damage during those first few minutes.
Since you don't drive hard til the engine is warm, oil being thin enough to circulate when cold is more important than film strength when cold. IMHO, the only argument against 5w would be whether the compromises involved in a 5wX adversely affect the quality of the oil when it's warm and supposed to be X.
Ken
When the oil is cold it's thick. When 5wX oil is cold, it's not as thin as SAE 5 when hot. It's as thick as SAE 5 would be when cold...which is probably thicker than X would be when hot. If you were to use straight 20 (or 30 or 40) oil, then unless you let the engine warm up before driving you'd be doing damage during those first few minutes.
Since you don't drive hard til the engine is warm, oil being thin enough to circulate when cold is more important than film strength when cold. IMHO, the only argument against 5w would be whether the compromises involved in a 5wX adversely affect the quality of the oil when it's warm and supposed to be X.
Ken
10 starts off thicker than 5 and moves around coating internal parts.
if you get up to 3k rpm as your driving off with a weight of 5 in your engine it has not reached a thick enough viscosity to cover all moving parts thus leaving moving parts with a lighter coating.
you start off with either 10 circulating around in your engine or 5 circulating around. once the oil starts to warm it gets thicker via polymers in the oil which give you the possibility to be at a maximum in this case of 30 or 40.
"An oil with too low a viscosity can shear and loose film strength at high temperatures. An oil with too high a viscosity may not pump to the proper parts at low temperatures and the film may tear at high rpm."
The trick is to find the balancing point int he middle so your not to thin or think in cold and not to thin or thick in hot.
Are we saying the same thing or arguing still? I'm confused.
08-06-2010, 10:46 PM
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Interesting (long) read..
08-07-2010, 03:21 AM
#18
That is a great read.
"The downside of a mineral based multi-grade oil is that this VII additive wears out over time and you end up with the original straight 10 grade oil. It will go back to being too thin when hot. It will have a thickness of 6 instead of 10. This may be why Porsche (according to some people) does not want a 0W-30 but rather a 10W-30. If the VII wears out the 0W-30 will ultimately be thinner, a straight 0 grade oil. When the VII is used up in the 10W-30 oil it too is thinner. It goes back to a straight 10 grade oil. They are both still too thick at startup, both of them. The straight 0 grade oil, a 5 grade oil and a 10 grade oil are all too thick at startup."
It really has nothing to do with what I was saying. I stand corrected on that What I was saying is quite the opposite of what really goes on.
However this quote I found to be interesting and supports my claim of 5w over 10w.
"The downside of a mineral based multi-grade oil is that this VII additive wears out over time and you end up with the original straight 10 grade oil. It will go back to being too thin when hot. It will have a thickness of 6 instead of 10. This may be why Porsche (according to some people) does not want a 0W-30 but rather a 10W-30. If the VII wears out the 0W-30 will ultimately be thinner, a straight 0 grade oil. When the VII is used up in the 10W-30 oil it too is thinner. It goes back to a straight 10 grade oil. They are both still too thick at startup, both of them. The straight 0 grade oil, a 5 grade oil and a 10 grade oil are all too thick at startup."
It really has nothing to do with what I was saying. I stand corrected on that What I was saying is quite the opposite of what really goes on.
However this quote I found to be interesting and supports my claim of 5w over 10w.
08-07-2010, 08:06 AM
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F*&%.......is this another oil thread? 
And......."yes, I am the oil thread Police"!
To the OP......if you go to www.mazdausa.com and register as an owner, put in your VIN number, you will see some of what you asked for. AND..............if you don't have an owners manual, you can download one for free and then take the time to read it.
And......."yes, I am the oil thread Police"!
To the OP......if you go to www.mazdausa.com and register as an owner, put in your VIN number, you will see some of what you asked for. AND..............if you don't have an owners manual, you can download one for free and then take the time to read it.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 08-07-2010 at 08:10 AM.
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