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https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...81f90fb3aa.jpg
Are these circled in red the switches? I've done a lot of work on cars over the years but I have never done anything with a trans in a RWD car. Changed SOHC Honda motors to DOHC and swapped Impreza WRX transmissions with other models like the forester and they literally bolt up and plug in with zero modification |
Everything is detailed here, but spread out in bits and pieces
1. S2 trans with reverse and neutral switches. 2. S2 shifter required, different than S1. 3. S2 shift knob required, shift pattern different than S1 4. Reverse and neutral switch connection plugs are different from S1 and requure adaptation. Simple blade connectors are sufficient. 5. S2 throw-out bearing (??? Not sure, I installed a racing clutch with race TO bearing) 6. S2 motor end plate - possibly optional, but highly recommended; trans will have open gaps between engine, rocks/debris can get into bellhousing/clutch area 7. (2) quarts of 70W90 GL4 transmission oil (I recommend Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS) and fluid transfer pump 8. Tools, equipment, knowledge, etc. to R&R transmission in an RX8 Other things to consider whenever you pull/install a transmission A. Clutch & flywheel mileage/condition B. Throw-out bearing condition - usually a good idea to replace regardless C. Pilot bearing & seal D. Front input shaft housing/seal wear condition (TO bearing slides on it) E. Rear trans/driveshaft seal F. Shifter plastic shift fork bushing on trans engagement end - gets sloppy with wear When the S2 trans came out I had my doubts, but it is a significant improvement over an S1 trans in many regards. If I missed something let me know and I'll update the info above. . |
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4663316)
Everything is detailed here, but spread out in bits and pieces
1. S2 trans with reverse and neutral switches. :icon_tup: 2. S2 shifter required, different than S1.:icon_tup: 3. S2 shift knob required, shift pattern different than S1-:icon_tup: I have a Mazdaspeed clone without the pattern 4. Reverse and neutral switch connection plugs are different from S1 and requure adaptation. Simple blade connectors are sufficient. :icon_tup: wiring is my main area of expertise 5. S2 throw-out bearing (??? Not sure, I installed a racing clutch with race TO bearing) :dunno: Bueller, Bueller.....Anyone? 6. S2 motor end plate - possibly optional, but highly recommended; trans will have open gaps between engine, rocks/debris can get into bellhousing/clutch area :icon_tup: Planned on having that after seeing a previous pic 7. (2) quarts of 70W90 GL4 transmission oil (I recommend Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS) and fluid transfer pump :icon_tup: 8. Tools, equipment, knowledge, etc. to R&R transmission in an RX8 :icon_tup: I know enough of the right people that will have the main tools, lift, trans jack..... Other things to consider whenever you pull/install a transmission A. Clutch & flywheel mileage/condition :icon_tup: Regardless of trans I use, S1 or S2 I plan on changing this while its out B. Throw-out bearing condition - usually a good idea to replace regardless :dunno: "Anyone" (who doesn't love Ben Stein in Ferris Bueller's Day Off") C. Pilot bearing & seal - :icon_tup: Included in Exedy Clutch Kit with TO bearing D. Front input shaft housing/seal wear condition (TO bearing slides on it)- Good to know E. Rear trans/driveshaft seal- Good to know F. Shifter plastic shift fork bushing on trans engagement end - gets sloppy with wear- Good to know When the S2 trans came out I had my doubts, but it is a significant improvement over an S1 trans in many regards. If I missed something let me know and I'll update the info above. . |
unless Exedy offers a different clutch assembly between S1 and S2 RX8s then the TO bearing is likely the same ... I can't really see it making much difference
I installed a Tilton 5.5" race clutch with a generic Mazda race TO bearing and the fork engagement position is right where it should be |
When I ordered my S2 transmission from Mazdaspeed a couple weeks ago I asked them to look up the clutch kit part numbers. They're the same for both the S1 and S2.
I think buying a used S1 transmission is a big fat gamble. I wouldn't do it again. When the 4th gear synchro went on my original transmission (at only 50k miles or so), I bought a used S1. It was even worse and a few laps on the track turned it into a box of gravel. Oh, and I meant to mention that the S1 shift knob fits the S2 shifter just fine. Okay, the pattern on the knob doesn't match the box, but the last thing I want to do is buy dress-up parts for my car. If I find an S2 knob for a good price, I'll buy it, but it's hardly at the top of my list of priorities. :) |
Technically there is no Mazda "clutch kit", just individual parts. The disc and PP are the same, but the throw out bearings are different part numbers.
The S1 TOB costs 2x more than the S2 TOB. Hard to be sure of the difference without having them both in hand and comparing them. I doubt it matters though. Always check/adjust the clutch pedal adjustment dimensions after a clutch change |
I wonder now whether that new S2 transmission in my garage has a TO bearing in it. I haven't taken the box...out of the box...yet.
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They are a bit different but only looks wise as far as I could tell. All I used a brand new S1 TO bearing from the dealer since that is what they had in stock and it works fine. I am really enjoying the S2 trans.
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Transmission had to be put on hold for me since my freaking ignition coils decided they didn't want to work correctly anymore. I ordered a bennett built kit for that.
I can baby the trans a bit as i can shift without issue below 4k rpms. Transmission swap will have to happen later....financial issues and unexpected problems suck! Lol |
A new S2 comes with a TO bearing installed. It even comes filled with oil, ready to put in the car. Neat.
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I just got the driveshaft out of my car. I haven't had much time to work on it. Good thing my season doesn't start until late May!
Anyway, both of the u-joints on the driveshaft feel...notchy. Like they've worn in the small range of motion they get. There's no play of any kind, but right in the middle on all the joints I feel a 'notch'. Should I get these rebuilt, or is this normal? Thanks! |
Also, does anybody know which switch is which on the S2 transmission? I have the FSM for the S1, but I don't have one for the S2. Mazdaspeed's website is no help.
Either way I can call them tomorrow and ask. If I do, I'll post here with the answer. Thanks! |
The neutral switch is the forward horizontal one and the backup light switch is the rear vertical one. All you had to do was pull up the parts diagram on Mazda Motorsports
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Then I guess I'm just stupid, aren't I?
I looked at Mazdaspeed's parts diagram for the S2 case (2009). I did not see either switch in the diagram. Maybe I looked at the wrong one or maybe I just missed them. Thanks for your help. Edit: I'll also point out that your description of the switches' orientation is backwards. The forward one is vertical and the rear is horizontal. |
Not at all, just making you aware that answer is not always beyond your own reach
I suppose that you also shouldn't blindly trust whomever responds. Otherwise there's no need to be a sensitive Nancy about it. Just looking at the diagram is not 100% clear of their position, but hopefully I gave enough info to assist your need. I'm not bothered at all by you pointing out that I made a mistake, particularly if it clarifies the situation for someone else going forward. I didn't have to try and help, it was simply my choice to ... and hopefully you have a suitable answer to work with https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...eda2921d95.gif |
Why even use the print? When I did it I just checked both transmissions side by side with a multimeter, and had the answer within a couple of minutes. It's the only way to be sure.
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Originally Posted by Harlan
(Post 4670250)
Why even use the print? When I did it I just checked both transmissions side by side with a multimeter, and had the answer within a couple of minutes. It's the only way to be sure.
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Originally Posted by Harlan
(Post 4670250)
Why even use the print? When I did it I just checked both transmissions side by side with a multimeter, and had the answer within a couple of minutes. It's the only way to be sure.
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I put the S2 transmission in last night. It's not finished, but the thing is in there.
Now that it's in, here's an observation that I wanted to run by you guys who already have one of these in your car. I ran the shifter through all the gears, making engine noises, as you do. I noticed that the shifter has a longer throw to it than the old one. That means it gets closer to the handbrake handle than I remember it getting before. I'd really only be able to shift it with my hand on top of the shifter, and not with my hand resting on it thumb-up. Does that make sense? Anyway, I was curious if anybody else had noticed this. I only have the PPF in with half the hardware and haven't aligned it. It's possible that the shifter is lower than it should be. Thanks. |
Originally Posted by Mr. Pockets
(Post 4673501)
I put the S2 transmission in last night. It's not finished, but the thing is in there.
Now that it's in, here's an observation that I wanted to run by you guys who already have one of these in your car. I ran the shifter through all the gears, making engine noises, as you do. I noticed that the shifter has a longer throw to it than the old one. That means it gets closer to the handbrake handle than I remember it getting before. I'd really only be able to shift it with my hand on top of the shifter, and not with my hand resting on it thumb-up. Does that make sense? Anyway, I was curious if anybody else had noticed this. I only have the PPF in with half the hardware and haven't aligned it. It's possible that the shifter is lower than it should be. Thanks. Yeah the throw is a little longer. I think the shifter is higher also. I did mine on Tuesday. Have had no issues with what you are talking about. I rest my hand on the shifter, almost always. |
I never had an OE shifter with mine, I just bought the short one.
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Yes, if you don't have the PPF aligned yet then it will sit lower than when fully installed and aligned.
Think about it .... |
Just a heads up to anyone wanting to do this that I have a good condition, under warranty series II tranny and I can throw in a clutch/flywheel/pressure playe all from a series II. If this is inappropriate feel free to delete..
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In case anybody else notices that their shifter is lower than it should be, I wanted to close out that issue. As I suspected and Mark confirmed, it was the PPF alignment. Once I had the PPF adjusted properly, the shifter was fine.
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Originally Posted by erikv
(Post 4353093)
It's a top load design (i.e. much beefier and resistant to damage).
I did the S1 to S2 trans swap back in January and can say that it is 100% bolt up compatible. The electrical connectors are different, so cut off the connectors from the S1 trans and splice onto the S2 trans. You'll also need the S2 shift lever and bushing as it is different and if you really need to, replace the shifter knob as the shift pattern is different (reverse is left/up instead of right/down). The new Mazda knob was over $100, so I did without -- I know where reverse is ;-) I ordered a new trans direct from Mazda via the Mazdaspeed Motorsports Racer Support program. Part numbers: S2 Trans: P6Y1-03-000 S2 Shift Lever: P610-17-510B S2 Shift Bushing: P611-17-492 And while you have it all apart, consider replacing the clutch... Just wanna make sure before I order these parts there's nothing else I need for the swap. Is the rest of the shifter assembly from the S1 trans used? I can't remember exactly what it is but isn't there a "basket" the shifter sets in that is bolted to the top of the transmission? I'm adding in front and rear seals while I'm at it, new flywheel, clutch, pilot bearing, throughout, slave, etc |
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