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Lucas *Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer*

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Old May 13, 2025 | 03:19 PM
  #1  
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From: Prunedale, CA
Lucas *Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer*

Hi everyone, has anyone else used it. I researched quite a bit on the rx7 and rx8 forum and don't really see a lot of first hand experience with it. I mostly found people thinking it was snakeskin oil or having used it on their other cars with good results. I decided to give a try on my last oil change for a few reasons. Reason number 1 is that the oil change specials ( 5 quarts and oil filter) no longer allow for 20w-50 to be included so the thickest oil I can get is 10w-40. I used to own a 1st gen SP 4 port 13B rx7 many years ago and always used 20W-50 per my Rotary mechanics recommendation. Adding 1 quart of Lucas to 3 quarts of 10w-40 should help with the oil being thicker. Reason number 2 is that the car has two things I wanted to test with Lucas which is quite a bit of white smoke during startup and blow-by being caught with the catch can. I currently have 1k+ on the oil and can report the white smoke at startup is less and the catch can doesn't seem to have much oil if any. I am also using an 8oz of premix (Lucas 2-cycle oil) at every fill up with 91 octane and check my oil at each fill up. I will continue to monitor results and understand they won't be conclusive but I am interested in others opinion and experience using Lucas. Some background on the car: It is a 2004 Rx8 with 102k mileage that it is on it's second engine. Per the previous owner, it was installed at 80k with a low mileage JDM one. I am unsure of what the JDM mileage was but I am guessing like most it was between 30k-50k+ ?
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Old May 13, 2025 | 03:45 PM
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The Lucas is still snake oil, your results are anecdotal at best, 10w-40 is more than enough. I would guess the issues you are having with the smoke and blow-by are a result of engine wear and preliminary engine failure which are things to prepare for (rebuild including replacement of soft seals, hard seals, springs, and wear surfaces including housings and irons).
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Old May 30, 2025 | 11:53 AM
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From: Prunedale, CA
Ricky, I agree with the rebuild being in the near future. I tested the engine a year and half ago and my compression numbers averaged 78 on all sides and both rotors. I honestly don't think the compression tester was accurate as it belonged to my uncle and he too confirmed that when he tested his 1st gen the numbers didn't make sense. I have delayed buying one or taking it in to a rotary shop. However, I do not have any hot or cold start issues and the power seems good with no change since I bought the car. The 10w-40 is good but I really would be happy running 20w-50 if it wasn't so expensive ($10 a quart at the local auto store). I can't say Lucas made a huge difference but I decided to add it as a way to help prolong the engine some more. I figure this along with running premix at every fill up can help squeeze out whatever is left of the engine. Also, I have noticed the issue with the oil light consistently coming out at 4k during freeway cruising has now gone away. I had read that this was a service bulletin but my vin doesn't apply to have it serviced - the engine however was swapped in with a low mileage JDM one at 78k by the previous owner so it might be one of this engines (currently 103k on odometer).

Service Bulletin
Mazda North American Operations
Irvine, CA 92618-2922

2004 RX8 - LOW OIL LEVEL WARNING LIGHT COMES ON WHEN LEVEL IS NOT LOW
BULLETIN NOTE
This bulletin replaces 01-027/03 issued 11-17-2003. The PART(S) INFORMATION and WARRANTY INFORMATION
have been revised.

APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2004 RX8 - VINS: JM1FE17* *40000000 to 40111043
DESCRIPTION
The low oil level warning light may come on while driving with engine speed 4500 to 4800 RPM and the oil level
is within specifications (1/4 above L on the dipstick).
All vehicles within the VIN range should have the oil pan replaced using the following procedure:

REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the oil pan.
a. Disconnect the oil level sensor electrical connector from the side of the oil pan.
b. Remove the oil pan bolts (22-10mm)
c. Separate the oil pan from the engine
2. Install the new oil pan and level sensors assembly.
a. Clean all silicone sealant, oil and dirt from the engine.
b. Clean all silicone sealant from the oil pan bolts.
c. Apply a

2.5 to 6.5mm (0.10 to 0.26in) bead of silicone sealant to the oil pan as shown.
d. Install the oil pan bolts and torque to 8.8 to 11.8Nm (77.9 to 104.4 inlb).
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Old May 30, 2025 | 02:21 PM
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kevink0000's Avatar
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Get 20w50 GTX at Walmart and change yourself. Or better, get VR1 20w50 at Walmart.

Don't use Lucas oil stabilizer. It dilutes the antiwear compounds in the oil. You are better off with the 10w40 if you must.

20w50 is still available on Amazon, for instance. It's not that hard to find. And worth finding for these engines in my view.
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Old May 30, 2025 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by kevink0000
Get 20w50 GTX at Walmart and change yourself. Or better, get VR1 20w50 at Walmart.

Don't use Lucas oil stabilizer. It dilutes the antiwear compounds in the oil. You are better off with the 10w40 if you must.

20w50 is still available on Amazon, for instance. It's not that hard to find. And worth finding for these engines in my view.
Valvoline also has a website you can order from (https://shop.valvolineglobal.com).
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Old May 30, 2025 | 04:07 PM
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From: Prunedale, CA
Originally Posted by _JB_
Valvoline also has a website you can order from (https://shop.valvolineglobal.com).

Thanks for the info JB. I just checked and unfortunately even with the 25% off discount for buying 4 quarts; the total after shipping and taxes comes out to $31+ which is $11 more than what I get 5 quarts of 10w-40 with a filter at the local auto store. I plan to keep using Lucas as the local auto parts store puts it on sale every so often. So far, I have not seen any negative effects from using it even.
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Old May 30, 2025 | 04:14 PM
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From: Prunedale, CA
Originally Posted by kevink0000
Get 20w50 GTX at Walmart and change yourself. Or better, get VR1 20w50 at Walmart.

Don't use Lucas oil stabilizer. It dilutes the antiwear compounds in the oil. You are better off with the 10w40 if you must.

20w50 is still available on Amazon, for instance. It's not that hard to find. And worth finding for these engines in my view.

Thanks Kevin for the info, I just checked Wally World online and it runs $10+ a quart!? I dislike how they now market it as motorcycle race oil. I recall two decades ago buying Castrol 20w-50 as regular inexpensive oil for my 1st gen rx7. It sucks how they jacked up the price on it these days. Why do you say that it dilutes the antiwear compounds?
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Old Jun 3, 2025 | 07:59 PM
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kevink0000's Avatar
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From: Arizona
Originally Posted by TopGunM2k
Thanks Kevin for the info, I just checked Wally World online and it runs $10+ a quart!? I dislike how they now market it as motorcycle race oil. I recall two decades ago buying Castrol 20w-50 as regular inexpensive oil for my 1st gen rx7. It sucks how they jacked up the price on it these days. Why do you say that it dilutes the antiwear compounds?

I get VR1 20w50 5 q for 26.98 at my local WM. Not MC oil.

GTX is like 22.99. The internet sucks, go to the store.

Amazon has VR1 for same $$.

Lucas OS is only viscosity index improvers, (VII) , and reportedly cheap ones at that, has no antiwear compounds to speak of. Therefore when added to oil with a standard AW package, it serves to bump viscosity, but dilute AW compounds at same rate.

It OK though, I used LOS to keep a 2.2 Camry on the road after it spun multiple crank bearings. It worked for about 5 k miles till I could get underneath it to fix it. Above 3k it sounded like a hammer on the crankcase on overrrun. Had a sticky note to keep below 2800rpm. Kid's car. I used 2Q LOS and 2 Q 20w50. It was syrup.

Last edited by kevink0000; Jun 3, 2025 at 08:06 PM.
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