im so DONE with the rx8s transmission
06-14-2010, 12:25 PM
#77
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My 8 has did it the day i drove it off the lot i ripped up the road and it did the same thing between 3 and 4.... found out later if u just hit the clutch in all the way it seems to fix it.... lol
06-14-2010, 12:27 PM
#78
No idea, however from reading extensively some last week, I believe what they use is roughly identical to Castrol 75w-85, except you can't get that here and only in AU or overseas. I think to be honest, the MT-90, 75w-140 etc are too heavy and prevent gears from matching which is what leads to the grinds. I'm not sure why some don't have the issue but I'm trying MTL when it comes in which is 70w-80. MT-90 is heavier than what is used from Mazda I hear even though the manual recommends 75w-90.
I switched to MT-90 and got grinds from 3rd to 4th when 6-7k or higher in rpm. Went to 75w-140 and now it grinds going from 2nd to 4th 5k or more as well along with the 3rd to 4th problem. Going lighter in hopes that's the better choice...
I switched to MT-90 and got grinds from 3rd to 4th when 6-7k or higher in rpm. Went to 75w-140 and now it grinds going from 2nd to 4th 5k or more as well along with the 3rd to 4th problem. Going lighter in hopes that's the better choice...
06-19-2010, 11:23 AM
#80
No idea, however from reading extensively some last week, I believe what they use is roughly identical to Castrol 75w-85, except you can't get that here and only in AU or overseas. I think to be honest, the MT-90, 75w-140 etc are too heavy and prevent gears from matching which is what leads to the grinds. I'm not sure why some don't have the issue but I'm trying MTL when it comes in which is 70w-80. MT-90 is heavier than what is used from Mazda I hear even though the manual recommends 75w-90.
I switched to MT-90 and got grinds from 3rd to 4th when 6-7k or higher in rpm. Went to 75w-140 and now it grinds going from 2nd to 4th 5k or more as well along with the 3rd to 4th problem. Going lighter in hopes that's the better choice...
I switched to MT-90 and got grinds from 3rd to 4th when 6-7k or higher in rpm. Went to 75w-140 and now it grinds going from 2nd to 4th 5k or more as well along with the 3rd to 4th problem. Going lighter in hopes that's the better choice...
06-20-2010, 07:48 PM
#81
Aight, I used Redline MTL, and everything is back to normal before I gave it fresh MT-90 oil at 30k; no grinds and runs great. I went from stock fluid to MT-90, got grinds I never noticed before from 3rd to 4th when shifting above 7k, after a week of using it I switched to 75w-140, same issue along with it also grinding from 2nd to 4th as well. After a week of using that, I switched to MTL, no grind from 2nd to 4th, slight grind from 3rd to 4th the first drive after putting the oil in. 4 days later, this weekend, revved it high on and off on a 4.5 hour trip, not a single grind. The MTL seemed to get rid of the grind that was introduced through the MT-90 and bring it back to optimal performance.
My theory is that well as someone else stated before, the MT-90 is heavier than our stock fluid I believe even though the manual recommends 75w-90 and that is what the MT-90 essentially is. Thicker oil as I read into it actually creates an issue for the gears to match speeds thus creating the grinds. Why or how some people are solving their grinding issue resorting to thicker oil I have no idea.
The MTL is 70w-80 and everything runs top notch. If you get a grind resorting from stock fluids to MT-90, my suggestion is go to MTL instead; go thinner first.
My theory is that well as someone else stated before, the MT-90 is heavier than our stock fluid I believe even though the manual recommends 75w-90 and that is what the MT-90 essentially is. Thicker oil as I read into it actually creates an issue for the gears to match speeds thus creating the grinds. Why or how some people are solving their grinding issue resorting to thicker oil I have no idea.
The MTL is 70w-80 and everything runs top notch. If you get a grind resorting from stock fluids to MT-90, my suggestion is go to MTL instead; go thinner first.
06-20-2010, 08:40 PM
#82
Aight, I used Redline MTL, and everything is back to normal before I gave it fresh MT-90 oil at 30k; no grinds and runs great. I went from stock fluid to MT-90, got grinds I never noticed before from 3rd to 4th when shifting above 7k, after a week of using it I switched to 75w-140, same issue along with it also grinding from 2nd to 4th as well. After a week of using that, I switched to MTL, no grind from 2nd to 4th, slight grind from 3rd to 4th the first drive after putting the oil in. 4 days later, this weekend, revved it high on and off on a 4.5 hour trip, not a single grind. The MTL seemed to get rid of the grind that was introduced through the MT-90 and bring it back to optimal performance.
My theory is that well as someone else stated before, the MT-90 is heavier than our stock fluid I believe even though the manual recommends 75w-90 and that is what the MT-90 essentially is. Thicker oil as I read into it actually creates an issue for the gears to match speeds thus creating the grinds. Why or how some people are solving their grinding issue resorting to thicker oil I have no idea.
The MTL is 70w-80 and everything runs top notch. If you get a grind resorting from stock fluids to MT-90, my suggestion is go to MTL instead; go thinner first.
My theory is that well as someone else stated before, the MT-90 is heavier than our stock fluid I believe even though the manual recommends 75w-90 and that is what the MT-90 essentially is. Thicker oil as I read into it actually creates an issue for the gears to match speeds thus creating the grinds. Why or how some people are solving their grinding issue resorting to thicker oil I have no idea.
The MTL is 70w-80 and everything runs top notch. If you get a grind resorting from stock fluids to MT-90, my suggestion is go to MTL instead; go thinner first.
MTL is lighter than stock, Im not sure if it will effect any long term durability, but if it works for you now then that's all it matters, right ?
For the record I use MT-90 for a long *** time never had any issue, but b4 I use MT-90 I was using MaxGear 75w90. no issues either, switched to MT-90 cuz I dont trust MaxGear in my tranny, its a great Rear Diff fluid tho.
06-20-2010, 08:46 PM
#83
^Just saying what worked for me. It's known that heavier oils can make matching gear speeds an issue to great a grind. Not saying it will happen if people switch to it, just saying what happened when I went to thicker based oils. MT-90 I believe is slightly thicker than stock, and MTL is lighter as well but it was the better choice of the 3 for my application and performs flawless. I don't care what Team runs, in fact I took his recommendation, tried it, it made it even worst. Common sense thinking is that oil loses viscosity over time, extended reading further in this topic came out that stock oil is lighter than MT-90 while not as light as MTL, heavier oils can lead to gears mismatching speeds to cause grinds, tried MT-90, grind, 75w-140, worst, seemed to stick true to the heavy oil problem mismatching gear speeds, tried MTL, worked perfectly, that's my story and I'm sticking to it 
I know people love MT-90 as many use it with no issue, for me it was an issue as I stated earlier and I'm not sure why it was with mine but not with others. Lighter was needed for my application and is what I suggested to those who got a grind when switching to MT-90 alike to my scenario.
I know people love MT-90 as many use it with no issue, for me it was an issue as I stated earlier and I'm not sure why it was with mine but not with others. Lighter was needed for my application and is what I suggested to those who got a grind when switching to MT-90 alike to my scenario.
06-20-2010, 09:17 PM
#84
^Just saying what worked for me. It's known that heavier oils can make matching gear speeds an issue to great a grind. Not saying it will happen if people switch to it, just saying what happened when I went to thicker based oils. MT-90 I believe is slightly thicker than stock, and MTL is lighter as well but it was the better choice of the 3 for my application and performs flawless. I don't care what Team runs, in fact I took his recommendation, tried it, it made it even worst. Common sense thinking is that oil loses viscosity over time, extended reading further in this topic came out that stock oil is lighter than MT-90 while not as light as MTL, heavier oils can lead to gears mismatching speeds to cause grinds, tried MT-90, grind, 75w-140, worst, seemed to stick true to the heavy oil problem mismatching gear speeds, tried MTL, worked perfectly, that's my story and I'm sticking to it
I know people love MT-90 as many use it with no issue, for me it was an issue as I stated earlier and I'm not sure why it was with mine but not with others. Lighter was needed for my application and is what I suggested to those who got a grind when switching to MT-90 alike to my scenario.
I know people love MT-90 as many use it with no issue, for me it was an issue as I stated earlier and I'm not sure why it was with mine but not with others. Lighter was needed for my application and is what I suggested to those who got a grind when switching to MT-90 alike to my scenario.
well if it works for u its fine I guess. but what if hmm say 5K miles later the grind comes back? cuz I have a feeling you have some sort of tranny issue. just saying.
06-20-2010, 10:08 PM
#85
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hey how u do it man can u told me ur secret how to keep the car in good shape?do u rev it to 3k even on the hot day or a long drive?before turning it off?wat dou do?
06-21-2010, 04:47 PM
#89
Anyone notice that shifting isn't as smooth during hot weathers and when the transmission is warmed up?
My transmission shifts fine but I just notice that it takes a bit more effort (especially going into reverse) and it's a bit notchier when the weather is above 80. I'm using Eneos 75w90 which is recommended by BHR. The new fluid has around 1000 miles into it.
My transmission shifts fine but I just notice that it takes a bit more effort (especially going into reverse) and it's a bit notchier when the weather is above 80. I'm using Eneos 75w90 which is recommended by BHR. The new fluid has around 1000 miles into it.
06-22-2010, 08:41 AM
#91
Anyone notice that shifting isn't as smooth during hot weathers and when the transmission is warmed up?
My transmission shifts fine but I just notice that it takes a bit more effort (especially going into reverse) and it's a bit notchier when the weather is above 80. I'm using Eneos 75w90 which is recommended by BHR. The new fluid has around 1000 miles into it.
My transmission shifts fine but I just notice that it takes a bit more effort (especially going into reverse) and it's a bit notchier when the weather is above 80. I'm using Eneos 75w90 which is recommended by BHR. The new fluid has around 1000 miles into it.
06-22-2010, 03:46 PM
#92
Anyone notice that shifting isn't as smooth during hot weathers and when the transmission is warmed up?
My transmission shifts fine but I just notice that it takes a bit more effort (especially going into reverse) and it's a bit notchier when the weather is above 80. I'm using Eneos 75w90 which is recommended by BHR. The new fluid has around 1000 miles into it.
My transmission shifts fine but I just notice that it takes a bit more effort (especially going into reverse) and it's a bit notchier when the weather is above 80. I'm using Eneos 75w90 which is recommended by BHR. The new fluid has around 1000 miles into it.
Everything is smooth for me except finding Reverse... lol
06-22-2010, 03:58 PM
#93
I'm not saying it's not smooth when the weather is hot and the transmission is warmed up, it's just not AS smooth as it seems to be on a cool 60 degree day. Perhaps it's just in my head. One thing I know is, this transmission is loud and reverse gear is a bitch.
06-24-2010, 12:26 AM
#95
I just replaced my tranny fluid and stared having horrible shifting probloms, going into 2end and 4th i grind if im above 5-6k rpms. i got the master clutch/slave and clutch line fixed, and made sure there was no air bubbles with a vac bleeder at the shop, i also ordered a bracket for the peddle that should be here tomorrow. the problom is still there?
i need advice as in what to do now.... i am going to put money into but want to would like to see if you guys know what needs to be replaced so i dont need to pay an extra couple hundo for them to tell me?
the car has 82k on it.... car has had everything done at mazda till 50k, everything but ,tranny and diff fluid has changed since 55k. i have been using royal purple since 55k for oil 5w20....(in minnesota(summer only) and just at 80k i replaced the tranny with valvoline 75w90 synthetic, and royal purple in the diff limited slip..... thats when all the probloms started.... i then thought that i should try and have the dealer do it.. so i paid them, that didnt fix it. i then put some royal purple in there for about 50miles... since i could tell it was even worse(felt like water) i took that out and got some valvoline but none synthetic.... that helped and was a little better......this was all before the master/slave/cluth line being replaced.....!!!???
i need advice as in what to do now.... i am going to put money into but want to would like to see if you guys know what needs to be replaced so i dont need to pay an extra couple hundo for them to tell me?
the car has 82k on it.... car has had everything done at mazda till 50k, everything but ,tranny and diff fluid has changed since 55k. i have been using royal purple since 55k for oil 5w20....(in minnesota(summer only) and just at 80k i replaced the tranny with valvoline 75w90 synthetic, and royal purple in the diff limited slip..... thats when all the probloms started.... i then thought that i should try and have the dealer do it.. so i paid them, that didnt fix it. i then put some royal purple in there for about 50miles... since i could tell it was even worse(felt like water) i took that out and got some valvoline but none synthetic.... that helped and was a little better......this was all before the master/slave/cluth line being replaced.....!!!???
06-24-2010, 03:24 PM
#97
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Big rant starting. I can't fix stupid but I sure as hell can laugh at it. These threads always crack me up. I've used Royal Purple in all of my cars and never had issues that weren't self inflicted. Brillo has run RP in his '03 RX-8 (engine and transmission) from basically 3K miles on and never had a single issue. Many people used it then loved it. Then one day someone had a problem. Suddenly you get the people who say RP is well documented not to work in the RX-8 transmission as a result. I happen to know of many that work fine with it with no issues. Then many of these same people said to get that RP crap out of there and install Redline. Then we see some people having transmission problems using it too. Of course there must only be one conclusion. Well, two. The oil that people are installing is too thin. Eureka! That must be it! Oh wait, maybe synthetics are just bad. Yeah yeah that's it! Synthetics are too thin and weak!
Give me a freaking break people! The main problem is your TRANSMISSION!!!! It is apparently weak and inconsistent much like your poorly oil metered inconsistent engines. The best oil in the world can't protect it if you are hard on it and if you are on your 3rd transmission and say you don't abuse it, you are either a liar, or truly have no idea what being hard on one is. Apparently some are better than others.
On my 1st RX-7, I had retrofitted the Turbo II drivetrain to a naturally aspirated engine. That particular car had an internally stock engine which was less than 200 hp at the crank. People said that drivetrain could handle well over 400 hp. Guess what? I killed it! Yes it had brass synchros. Conversely, since then I haven't had any problems with the standard drivetrain in my current non turbo RX-7. I also don't drive like I used to. I'm not going to go blame the oil I used. In fact, back then I only used conventional oils. Perhaps I should reach the conclusion that it was a conventional that resulted in me killing a strong transmission but a synthetic oil is protecting my current one? That would be ridiculous but no more outrageous than what I read here.
Then on top of all of this we get people who feel that a thicker oil will protect better. I hope you can definitively back that up. Well that is of course until someone has a transmission issue who was using thicker. Then the bandwagon will once again come out and proclaim thicker to be bad! Then some bright soul will say that thinner is the cure and once again the yearly lemming parade will follow off of the nearest cliff. This nonsensical gibberish is really quite ridiculous. Just use stock Mazda oil and kill your transmissions with it instead. At least because it has Mazda stamped on the bottle someone can finally write it off as a transmission problem. If your manual recommends a GL-3, use a GL-3 oil which btw is 30W motor oil. If it recommends GL-4, use a GL-4. If it recommends GL-5, use a GL-5. Simple. I'm sure some genious will then come on here and bitch about how some say compatible with both but aren't for XX or YY reason because someone on BITOG (just another internet forum) said so. Whatever.
BTW here's a piece of useful information, a 75W90 gear oil is the same viscosity as 15W40 motor oil.
Give me a freaking break people! The main problem is your TRANSMISSION!!!! It is apparently weak and inconsistent much like your poorly oil metered inconsistent engines. The best oil in the world can't protect it if you are hard on it and if you are on your 3rd transmission and say you don't abuse it, you are either a liar, or truly have no idea what being hard on one is. Apparently some are better than others.
On my 1st RX-7, I had retrofitted the Turbo II drivetrain to a naturally aspirated engine. That particular car had an internally stock engine which was less than 200 hp at the crank. People said that drivetrain could handle well over 400 hp. Guess what? I killed it! Yes it had brass synchros. Conversely, since then I haven't had any problems with the standard drivetrain in my current non turbo RX-7. I also don't drive like I used to. I'm not going to go blame the oil I used. In fact, back then I only used conventional oils. Perhaps I should reach the conclusion that it was a conventional that resulted in me killing a strong transmission but a synthetic oil is protecting my current one? That would be ridiculous but no more outrageous than what I read here.
Then on top of all of this we get people who feel that a thicker oil will protect better. I hope you can definitively back that up. Well that is of course until someone has a transmission issue who was using thicker. Then the bandwagon will once again come out and proclaim thicker to be bad! Then some bright soul will say that thinner is the cure and once again the yearly lemming parade will follow off of the nearest cliff. This nonsensical gibberish is really quite ridiculous. Just use stock Mazda oil and kill your transmissions with it instead. At least because it has Mazda stamped on the bottle someone can finally write it off as a transmission problem. If your manual recommends a GL-3, use a GL-3 oil which btw is 30W motor oil. If it recommends GL-4, use a GL-4. If it recommends GL-5, use a GL-5. Simple. I'm sure some genious will then come on here and bitch about how some say compatible with both but aren't for XX or YY reason because someone on BITOG (just another internet forum) said so. Whatever.
BTW here's a piece of useful information, a 75W90 gear oil is the same viscosity as 15W40 motor oil.
06-26-2010, 02:18 PM
#99
Tailgaters beware
Big rant starting. I can't fix stupid but I sure as hell can laugh at it. These threads always crack me up. I've used Royal Purple in all of my cars and never had issues that weren't self inflicted. Brillo has run RP in his '03 RX-8 (engine and transmission) from basically 3K miles on and never had a single issue. Many people used it then loved it. Then one day someone had a problem. Suddenly you get the people who say RP is well documented not to work in the RX-8 transmission as a result. I happen to know of many that work fine with it with no issues. Then many of these same people said to get that RP crap out of there and install Redline. Then we see some people having transmission problems using it too. Of course there must only be one conclusion. Well, two. The oil that people are installing is too thin. Eureka! That must be it! Oh wait, maybe synthetics are just bad. Yeah yeah that's it! Synthetics are too thin and weak!
Give me a freaking break people! The main problem is your TRANSMISSION!!!! It is apparently weak and inconsistent much like your poorly oil metered inconsistent engines. The best oil in the world can't protect it if you are hard on it and if you are on your 3rd transmission and say you don't abuse it, you are either a liar, or truly have no idea what being hard on one is. Apparently some are better than others.
On my 1st RX-7, I had retrofitted the Turbo II drivetrain to a naturally aspirated engine. That particular car had an internally stock engine which was less than 200 hp at the crank. People said that drivetrain could handle well over 400 hp. Guess what? I killed it! Yes it had brass synchros. Conversely, since then I haven't had any problems with the standard drivetrain in my current non turbo RX-7. I also don't drive like I used to. I'm not going to go blame the oil I used. In fact, back then I only used conventional oils. Perhaps I should reach the conclusion that it was a conventional that resulted in me killing a strong transmission but a synthetic oil is protecting my current one? That would be ridiculous but no more outrageous than what I read here.
Then on top of all of this we get people who feel that a thicker oil will protect better. I hope you can definitively back that up. Well that is of course until someone has a transmission issue who was using thicker. Then the bandwagon will once again come out and proclaim thicker to be bad! Then some bright soul will say that thinner is the cure and once again the yearly lemming parade will follow off of the nearest cliff. This nonsensical gibberish is really quite ridiculous. Just use stock Mazda oil and kill your transmissions with it instead. At least because it has Mazda stamped on the bottle someone can finally write it off as a transmission problem. If your manual recommends a GL-3, use a GL-3 oil which btw is 30W motor oil. If it recommends GL-4, use a GL-4. If it recommends GL-5, use a GL-5. Simple. I'm sure some genious will then come on here and bitch about how some say compatible with both but aren't for XX or YY reason because someone on BITOG (just another internet forum) said so. Whatever.
BTW here's a piece of useful information, a 75W90 gear oil is the same viscosity as 15W40 motor oil.
Give me a freaking break people! The main problem is your TRANSMISSION!!!! It is apparently weak and inconsistent much like your poorly oil metered inconsistent engines. The best oil in the world can't protect it if you are hard on it and if you are on your 3rd transmission and say you don't abuse it, you are either a liar, or truly have no idea what being hard on one is. Apparently some are better than others.
On my 1st RX-7, I had retrofitted the Turbo II drivetrain to a naturally aspirated engine. That particular car had an internally stock engine which was less than 200 hp at the crank. People said that drivetrain could handle well over 400 hp. Guess what? I killed it! Yes it had brass synchros. Conversely, since then I haven't had any problems with the standard drivetrain in my current non turbo RX-7. I also don't drive like I used to. I'm not going to go blame the oil I used. In fact, back then I only used conventional oils. Perhaps I should reach the conclusion that it was a conventional that resulted in me killing a strong transmission but a synthetic oil is protecting my current one? That would be ridiculous but no more outrageous than what I read here.
Then on top of all of this we get people who feel that a thicker oil will protect better. I hope you can definitively back that up. Well that is of course until someone has a transmission issue who was using thicker. Then the bandwagon will once again come out and proclaim thicker to be bad! Then some bright soul will say that thinner is the cure and once again the yearly lemming parade will follow off of the nearest cliff. This nonsensical gibberish is really quite ridiculous. Just use stock Mazda oil and kill your transmissions with it instead. At least because it has Mazda stamped on the bottle someone can finally write it off as a transmission problem. If your manual recommends a GL-3, use a GL-3 oil which btw is 30W motor oil. If it recommends GL-4, use a GL-4. If it recommends GL-5, use a GL-5. Simple. I'm sure some genious will then come on here and bitch about how some say compatible with both but aren't for XX or YY reason because someone on BITOG (just another internet forum) said so. Whatever.
BTW here's a piece of useful information, a 75W90 gear oil is the same viscosity as 15W40 motor oil.
I think it is just a poorly designed transmission, or at least poorly designed to handle 9000 rpms.
I bought a 88 Supra Turbo with 155k on a broken speedo (no telling how many more miles it really had), and with a hard grabbing ACT clutch I could still power shift the hell out of that thing and it never grinded once, and thats with a motor making about 350 lbs of tq and 320 hp. I don't even know what kind of tranny fluid it even had in it, but I don't think it mattered much as long as it had the fluid in it. Now the 7m-gte motor on the other hand... well lets just say the tranny was built to outlast the motor(s).