im changing my front pads and rotors. on the passenger side the piston wont go in at all. im using a c clamp and it wont bulge.. please help!!!!

 

try unscrewing the brake fluid cap to relieve some pressure?

 

I did that and no go. should i try to bleed the line?

 

Did the drivers side go in for you? How exactly are you using the C Clamp? If I was doing that with a c-clamp I would place an old pad over the piston and the clamp on top of that.

 

the drivers side went perfectly. the passenger will not bulge an inch.

 

This is why I don't use c clamp

If ALL else fails. Just open the bleed screw and do it

 

I've always used a c-clamp for brake pads... something else is wrong here.
As expo1 mentioned... make sure you use the old pad.
And nycgps has a good idea with opening the bleed screw.

 

Were the pads worn funny on that side? The piston may be seized....

If you got it crooked..it can jamb...so use the pad like they said to make sure it is square to the piston.

Carefully push on your brake pedal and it may straighten out the piston if it is crooked...but make sure the c-clamp will not let the piston over extend

 

16Bars, the piston will adjust to the meat of the pads. Having new pads = max meat lol so you need to turn the bleader valve to release the piston and put the pads back in.
>>>DO NOT TURN IT ALL THE WAY OPEN<<<
just enough to let some pressuer out so the piston can move back in.
Don't get any brake fluid on your paint of the paint will come off as brake fluid eats at paint.
GL!

 

Yeah I would get a C-Clamp at your local auto parts store so you can push the piston back in. That should do the trick but not all the time. Like I said I had to turn the bleeder valve and if you dont know where that is just google it and pix will pop right up

 

Dam, I just changed my pads, and messed up my middle finger while talking on the phone and trying to tighten the dam nut.

 

It may be 'cocked' - twisted sideways in the barrel.

Loosen the C-clamp and pump the brakes, the forward pressure will straighten it out, then try to clamp it back in.

 

I dont like all this "Piston" talk on our forums. I hereby decree that from this day forward it be called "The brake caliper pushy thing"

 

thx all. I got it!!!!
I think it was what StealthTL was saying. The pad and clamp worked it in after I tap the brake pedal while the c clamp was on.

 

I second this motion...even though it was a decree!

 

You funny Americans...it would not work because you should use a G Clamp...never heard of a C Clamp before!

 

I always use a giant pair of Channellocks for pushing in brake pistons in place of a C-clamp.

 

Oh yeah that what I got at autozone lol but they call it a C clamp. Wait we talking about the samething? err uhh tool?

 

+1, just buy a new caliper, it cant be that expensive.
Unless you want to chew through another set of brake pads. Go ahead.

Otherwise get a line clamp, clamp the brake line gently, remove caliper and rebuild. Or replace the caliper.

 

you can also screw it back in to place . it rotates back in with out a c clamp

 

exactly. there IS a special tool for this, the prongs allow you to turn the piston, supposedly it had threading.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-28600-Di.../dp/B0002SQUFY

HOWEVER - I bought one and ended up just using a c-clamp lol, I couldnt get it to twist at all.

 

Only rear has to be 'screwed' in, the front can be pushed in...

the way to tell is to look inside the puck, if it has 2 indents for the tool, screw it in... if its smooth push away...

 

WTF are you talking about?
"bleader"? "pressuer"? "MEAT"?!?

You don't really want to open the bleeder. What condition is the dust boot in?

 

Next time, don't take the caliper apart before pushing in the piston. Leave the pads where they are. Place one end of the C/G clamp in the usual position (back of the piston housing) and the other on the outside pad (between the outer caliper jaws). Now everything is securely held as you squeeze the parts together and push the piston in (don't do this with the rear brakes).

 

Gee... we have the turn in piston.

Need to use aneedle nose pliers not a C clamp.