TALAN7

Did't I just read that Mada opened a facility to rebuild just rotaries?

Nubo

I guess it's a matter of perspective. Wasn't that long ago that 100,000 miles was a decent life for an engine. I realize it's common today, but how many miles before you feel you've gotten an even deal?

As far as "known problem", it's not apparent to me from the info presented that this is due to a "known defect" of the engine. Apex seals have a finite lifetime. If we compare to your saturn, not sure if they would have ponied up a new engine if your rings or valve guides had worn, for example.

But finally, I'm not sure I'm buying Mazda's explanation at this point. When they said that warmup enabled a seal, I figured they might be talking about side seals. But now the info seems to be apex seals. Not sure how that would be influenced by temp or expansion of the rotor. If it is the apex seals, then it wouldn't be wear, but that they'e stuck in their grooves. Otherwise they move in and out to adjust to the dimensions and thermal expansion should not be a factor. I just might give it an overnight soak with cleaner, and once it's burned off run the hell out of it. Since it's already been pronounced dead, why not?

Or if you're smarter than me, you might take it to an independent rotary mechanic for a second opinion before doing anything else.

TALAN7

I plan on and maybe I'll get someone who can perform that spray myself. I'm willing to pay a little to try if anyone out there knows anything about how to do it. Anybody out there in the Jersey area? I called Acosta motorsports but they seem closed.
Are there any other rotary mechs in Jersey?

TALAN7

Oh, and by the way I just got off the phone with Mazda NA. Trying for whatever I can get. They're contacting the regional service manager now.

Dive Bum

Good luck... did you check out the pdf I posted on the TSB? I don't know if will help, but it seems like it pertains to your issues.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I never did it myself (just got the cleaner few days ago), but I think I know how to do it.

I might do it over this weekend. if all goes well, we can find a place to meet up (whatever, ur home or my home) , then I can do the work (just buy me a beer lol)

I doubt they gonna replace ur engine, but like the others said, you SHOULD get ur 1500 back or at least 1/2 of it, cuz they did NOT fix ur car at all.

Nubo

Yeah, if they balk at refunding you could suggest that maybe you should go out into the showroom and inform potential customers that Mazda's engine diagnostics cost $1500 a pop. Whee!

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

If they say they already put new parts on u, well sure, refund ALL the labor cost then.

Cuz from their *600 something* number, .... it seems like either they charge u like 200 bux an hour, or they charged u at least 4 hours for something that could be done in 1 hour.

Yeah I know the engine cleaning u have to crank for a minute (in total) and let it sit for an hour. Exactly, SIT, they dont have to work on it. Plus I doubt they actually let it *sit* for an hour.

sebarx8

iTrader: (4)

hi im new here, im in nj , i have the 8 since sep2005 , if that will happen to my 8
i'll wait the next rainy day and crashed to a pole, the car is save as hell
total lost ,pay the car, no more problems ,get a new one ,and start over
i don't wanna have that feel that mi 8 is a pice of **** car an mazda is worse than saturn

Romeo

yeah, thats what I thought it was, seafoam.

supposedly this helps a lot.... Im sure thats only the case for older cars 100miles+
or am I wrong?

TALAN7

Sansone Mazda says they did it twice and was told not to do it again. I wonder if you let it sit overnight or a few hours if it would work?

TALAN7

Their policy could be do it twice then make the customer pay for engine. I mean 1 hour is not a long time to wait. I would wait like 4-5 hours. Sansone had told me the 2nd time that they may have only loosened the carbon the 1st time.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Go ahead. We'll see you on the news.

oh, please enjoy ur saturn.

Most dealership cares about their customer's pocket. when I say that I mean they *want* to take that money out of your pocket as much as they could. Cuz they *assume* that all customers are moron, and they're free to rip them off as much as they could.

One bottle of cleaner "suppose" to be able to clean 2 engines.

I think you really should try to get ur money back. Seriously speaking, they didnt fix your problem at ALL.

If they want to be a bitch about it, tell them to take the stuff back from ur car, like coils, it didnt fix ur problem anyway (its nice to have new ones tho)

I can let u use my original coils first so u can at least drive it home, my original coils still work when I took them out, I replaced them cuz I want top performance at all times.

then I can just sell u my new coils and cleaner at cost. I can always re-order them. no big deal. then I'll do the dirty work for ya, free labor.

Damn dealerships.

I have almost 40K on my engine, no problems so far. Im doing the cleaning to my engine simply becuz I want to "better be safe than sorry"

Rotary engine are pretty reliable. The Synthetic oil thing from 30+ yrs ago hurt Rotary engine's image. then people who blew their 13B-REW up hurts it even more, when its NOT even Rotary's fault that these ppl up their boost without any upgrades to cooling.

TALAN7

I picked her up this evening and have been driving the hell out of her hoping to blow out whatever. It stumbled and flashed when I first started her then the engine light went out altogether. After it sat though I started her and it flashed on and stayed on. It still runs fine after warming up. I revved it to redline a couple of times. That's why I don't see why I'd have to get a new engine. I should be able to salvage this one. More cleaner

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

it could be the seals are not sealing well, it could be due to carbon.

ahh **** I was in Jersey b4, I should've gave u a call to give ya a bottle of premix, Premix might be able to help ur sealing problem for now (if its not carbon)

Anyway, so u have new coils in there right ?

TALAN7

yeah, new coils and plugs, but the plugs are fouling up pretty quickly. The dealer said that when the car warms up the seal is good, just when it's cold. This might be something that could be fixed.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Plugs shouldnt foul unless it has been flooded or the MAD RICH fuel mixture.

Try some premix.

Nubo

This 65 degrees thing just seems fishy. Did they do a compression test, cold and warm, to confirm this theory? Surely there are other problems that could cause it to run extremely rich when cold?

TALAN7

They said compression was fine. would a bad cat cause this?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

What the hell ? compression was fine ?

Wow, Im starting to think they really didnt clean ur engine right.

TALAN7

Same here, that's why I'm making an appointment with Wayne Mazda for another opinion.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

When is the appointment ?

TALAN7

I have to make it. Last time I tried to make an appointment with them they gave me one that was like 2 weeks later. They must be very popular. I didn't feel like waiting so I took it to Sansone. Whenever I call them they're like bring it in. At 1st I thought prompt service, but now I see that no one trusts them and for good reason. They're flaky

Nubo

This contradicts the previous statement:

If the apex seals aren't sealing, you get poor compression. So, in order for their "65 degrees" theory to hold water, the car would have to have bad compression when cold, and good compression when warm. I would think such a diagnosis would require at least 2 compression checks (warm vs. cold) to confirm. Or, maybe they're using their vacuum thingy to make this determination?

TALAN7

Dropping off the car at Wayne Mazda tomorrow afternoon.