HELP: Missing power under 5k rpm!?!?!?
07-06-2008, 01:39 PM
#51
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http://smrmicro.com/rx8servicemanual/
Found this on this thread : https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ht=shop+manual
go to #3 engine specs and do a search for compression and it gives a chart and specs.
Found this on this thread : https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ht=shop+manual
go to #3 engine specs and do a search for compression and it gives a chart and specs.
07-07-2008, 12:40 PM
#54
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any updates?
07-07-2008, 04:35 PM
#57
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Well, I just went to lunch and had some problems with my car. The CEL came on as soon as I pulled out of the parking lot. After the car warmed up it would stall as soon as I came to a stop. Now it won't idle.
07-07-2008, 04:42 PM
#58
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can you pull the code?
get that badboy towed to Mazda; new engine here you come!
get that badboy towed to Mazda; new engine here you come!
07-07-2008, 05:34 PM
#62
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your car is posessed
07-07-2008, 09:43 PM
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Quote : CHR - Remove the valve core from the tester so the needle bounces as the compression strokes pass by. Note where the needle stops each time and determine the numerical value later. Make sure to disconnect the e-shaft sensor, first, and remember using an analogue gauge is only a general idea of the compression values. Don't forget to crank the engine at WOT.
If you are doing this and everything is right, and I'm no expert in any way, but I would say that yours is low. That first one seems to meet min standards but the other two vids, seem to fall short of mins. But I would wait for a better, more experienced answer from CHR or someone like that.
If you are doing this and everything is right, and I'm no expert in any way, but I would say that yours is low. That first one seems to meet min standards but the other two vids, seem to fall short of mins. But I would wait for a better, more experienced answer from CHR or someone like that.
07-08-2008, 12:37 PM
#69
Purveyor of fine bass
I've had this problem for about three weeks now. Under 5k rpm my car is lacking about half its normal power. After 5k rpm it still feels strong. When taking off from a stop, or accelerating under 5k, the engine sounds like it's being flooded; however, it starts and idles perfectly fine.
Here is the interesting part: when the car is cold. It feels very strong from idle all the way to redline. After the car warms up I loose most of my down low power.
The only engine mods I have are RB intake+duct and RB exhaust. Both mods have been installed for over 2 years without any issues. The car has 57k miles on it.
I tried the normal fixes. I installed new plugs. Checked all the fluids. Cleaned the air filter. I even completely reset the computer.
Help?
Here is the interesting part: when the car is cold. It feels very strong from idle all the way to redline. After the car warms up I loose most of my down low power.
The only engine mods I have are RB intake+duct and RB exhaust. Both mods have been installed for over 2 years without any issues. The car has 57k miles on it.
I tried the normal fixes. I installed new plugs. Checked all the fluids. Cleaned the air filter. I even completely reset the computer.
Help?
I don't get on the car hard, so I didn't notice the "cold power", but I don't remember noticing the cold acceleration being any better than hot.
My car idles so-so (Due to engine mounts) and it ended up stalling on me once at a stop light (at about 68K). I have RB exhaust and RB duct, stock intake.
So given that I had the problem for some 6K-8K, if not more, the car did not die on me and was drivable until the minute I brought it to the dealer for the engine replacement.
Last edited by Astral; 07-08-2008 at 12:42 PM.
07-08-2008, 12:38 PM
#70
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Do you have a decent dealership in the area? Go for a compression check with a proper rotary compression tester. It should take less than an hour, more like half an hour. Worst case pay for 1HR of labor.
You can typically make a deal with the dealer: if the compression check comes back at spec, you pay 1 labor hr for the diagnostic. If it doesn't, then they can bill it to Mazda as warranty work and get you a new engine.
You can typically make a deal with the dealer: if the compression check comes back at spec, you pay 1 labor hr for the diagnostic. If it doesn't, then they can bill it to Mazda as warranty work and get you a new engine.
Last edited by Astral; 07-08-2008 at 12:41 PM.
07-08-2008, 01:01 PM
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07-09-2008, 01:13 AM
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I went and bought a scanner today.
Code: P0506 - Idle control RPM Lower than Expected
What does that mean?
btw, the cel is gone but the code is still stored.
Code: P0506 - Idle control RPM Lower than Expected
What does that mean?
btw, the cel is gone but the code is still stored.