Remove the valve core from the tester so the needle bounces as the compression strokes pass by. Note where the needle stops each time and determine the numerical value later. Make sure to disconnect the e-shaft sensor, first, and remember using an analogue gauge is only a general idea of the compression values. Don't forget to crank the engine at WOT.

 

question: Will this get worse as I put more miles on the car? How soon until it's obvious there is a problem?

If I took it to Mazda right now, in typical dealer fashion, they would say that it's running fine. I have 57k miles behind the wheel of that car and I know it's not running correctly.

 

Would this apply to me?

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...14-08-1924.pdf

 

It could, everytime I have taken my car in and mentioned a TSB they haven't charged me anything for looking at it. You could try that route. Alot of the TSBs you have to actually "complain" or the TSB might say verify customer concern, etc. about the problem or mention the TSB otherwise the dealer won't know there is an issue. Unless it is a big saftey concern.

Worse comes to worse, have them check it out and bring a copy of the TSB. Sorry I can't be of more help.

 

If you have been driving her for that many miles then it is obviously a problem, cause you know your car better than anyone else. If it is the compression it will only get worse. Do you pre-mix? Cause that TSB concerns carbon and apex seals supposedly from not enough lube.

 

I've never run pre-mix.

 

Rodger: that WOULD apply to you.
Do you have a good relationship with your dealership? If so, see if you can get the tech to ride in the car with you. (or even just the service advisor) If they can see it first hand, you might be in luck

 

All the dealers hate me. Long Beach Mazda wouldn't even given my a loaner car when they replaced my motor mounts.

 

stop being such an *******!
any dealerships near you that you haven't been to recently?

 

Jedi, you know I can't be anything less than an *******.

The closest dealer to me is 30 miles. (Long Beach Mazda, they wouldn't give me a loaner last time)

Browning and Galpin are next at about 40 miles.

Browning hates me and Galpin is in the valley.....

 

Try Huntington Beach Mazda, they have the same owner as Tustin.

 

soooooo far

 

If they don't help you out start calling Mazda. I had to do that when my first 8 went down. I bitched enough, that and my situation wasn't good at the time, and got them to ship the car after the engine was replaced to Ohio from NM. I let them have it too! I don't have the time or luxury to put up with stuff like that.

 

Well, the first thing I'm going to do is check the compression. I'll be doing that monday afternoon. Once I know that my motor is bad, I'll have more courage when dealing with the stealer.

What is spec for our motors?

 

That I don't know for sure off the top of my head, but I know it's here in the forum somewhere.

 

why not be nice to them for a change? maybe if they see that you're genuinely worried about your car, and not just coming in to be rude to them, they'll be more apt to help you out. also, you have your warranty. even if you're being a dick, they shouldn't deprive you of proper service.

tustin mazda tries to milk you for your money and some of the guys there are just incompetent. not sure if that goes for huntington, but with the same owner, i wouldn't be surprised. if you're gonna go to any dealer, get the rates from various ones and then choose which one you want to take your car to. go in with a good attitude and you'll get good service

 

Who said I'm not nice to them? No offense, but you've never dealt with dealers before.

 

yeah i would try the compression test at mazda sounds like a failing apex seal of somesort like someone above said when the motor warms up the seal does not expand like it should causing a "leak" from one side of one of the rotors to another!!!

 

So I should do the compression check when the motor is warm....

 

RR, you should not only do it when it is warm, you should also make sure your oil isn;t overdue for a change. Clean oil, clean air filter, and good compression tester.

 

RR I saw this thread from rotarygod and is just a thought.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/rotary-compression-tester-149967/

 

I change my oil every 3500 miles +/- 500. Air filter was cleaned about a month ago. I normally clean it every 5-6 months.

 

I saw that the other day. It's very nice but I couldn't drop $300+ on a compression tester I will probably only use once in my life.

I got a hold of a basic compression tester. I'm going to hold down the release button while I have some one crank the motor. It should give me a general idea.

How big of a compression difference am I looking for between a good chamber and a bad one? I assume that there will be two bad and one good per rotor if I do have a compression leak? (each apex seal holds for two rotor faces)

 

I can't seem to find the compression spec of our motor.

 

MSB-16 Re-Flash.