Don't go legal until you have no where else to turn. Once you get lawyers involved, any progress will shutdown until you go to court which could take years.

 

damn that sucks. I vote for "re-using that 1 foot fuel line" and "did not tighten stuff down correctly"

this is sad, is it really really that difficult to do some simple stuff like this ?

 

Dealer techs = Former Jiffy Lube employees. Typically.

 

fresh out of college acne pizzaface! lol

 

you need a new engine man. Hands down--there fault, the operating parameters at the time of the failure are imbedded in the engines computer--so dont let them wipe that info.
I wonder if the engine is probably locked since you heard a loud noise on top of everything else. It could have been something very simple they didnt do.
if a dealership changes the LIM they remove the engine to do it.
So your oil filter could have blown off because they didnt tighten it etc etc etc. a dozen things it could be.

 

Unfortunately, there is no way for me to not let them wipe the codes... The car is 50 miles away and will probably be checked out in the morning. I will be too late. Im gonna pass by in the afternoon and get a loaner for a 3rd time. Im gonna talk to the service manager. Ill keep my cool in the beginning and then I dont know what will happen.

I found that being nice always yields better results. My guess is that fuel line was reused because I dont see the part as being changed anywhere on the service bill. But as you see on the pictures, and I touched it, it was clearly dark oil. Probably a bad hose connection somewhere. I really hope there is an auto-ECU shutoff for oil pressure. I searched but couldnt find a clear answer. I guess this stuff only happens to me. The funny thing is all this time I was driving on the highway, then stop and go traffic, then went home for 30 mins. Started it up nicely, good power no lights no nothing. I forgot to mention that I had about a little below a quarter tank of gas and when I turned the key to move the car on the towing the gas light was suddenly on. It did spew out gas and oil.

Cant wait to see what it is this time. I told myself not to get angry and breathe. All I can do now is wait and laugh about it. It is what it is.

 

Im looking at my service bill I just noticed something. When I took my car in, I check my oil religiously it was full. I just noticed that they put in 3 quarts of oil while replacing my intake manifold. Would it be possible that it had so much oil that it exploded? It doesnt say oil filter so I know they didnt do an oil change and the oil on the ground was somewhat black. Could be the case of too much oil? The engine can only withstand the extreme oil pressure for too long.

 

"too much oil" doesn't change oil pressure. If oil is filling the pump, it sits at the same pressure at the same rpm every time. Too much oil however dumps into the intake track, and from there it gets sucked into the engine.

Maybe the crankcase overpressurized from the vacuum lines getting clogged with tops of oil, maybe a line blew off and dumped this oil all over the ground? Possibly also sudden ingestion of too much oil made the engine unable to continue firing and it died?

 

OH NO...djfa..

I just replied to your N3H6-13-100R Intake Manifold Thread Question..

What the hell are you talking about lawyers for G, the guy has not return the car to dealer yet, yeah, great advice go in there rating and raving and demanding and threatening lawyers, will get you a long way with Service Manager....not.

YES, get the car back to Dealer.....they have definitely done something wrong with either the reman install or re-man is faulty or whatever they did when fixing the Intake Manifold issue...which you have not said 'what' was originally wrong with intake...I guess SSV.

djfa, Don't Threaten the Dealer with ANYTHING yet!....

IF you have to pay for tow, do so, you will get it back.
You have done 1,000 KM's since new engine install, the Dealer has to rectify.

Let them tell you what went wrong, and then get back to us.

Politely contact MNAO and tell them about the towing costs and other issues, BUT be Polite.
Remember (write down) names and ask for reference numbers of conversations.

I tend to agree with Dan, if the engine has seized I would want it replaced with another re-man.

Good luck , and get back..

 

Did the Dealer actually renew the lower Intake Manifold Assembly?

They really don't normally renew the complete units, they usually repair the SSV, API.
Unless they cracked the intake manifold somehow, and yes then the engine has to come out IF they renewed the Lower Intake Manifold Assy...?

So YES, I am tipping the mechanic(s) did not connect the Oil Lines from Oil Coolers to Engine correctly/loose, or even install of the Oil Filter neck was not tightened.??

And or with removing the above they did not top off Oil and you got an engine seize because of low oil, BUT you should have got a low Oil Warning light if oil was low??

 

Canada is closer to Europe than america culturally. You don't generally contact a lawyer to go there and wreak havoc. You just inform him of the situation so that he's ready to fire as soon as the dealer does something stupid.
The OP and I already exchanged some PMs and that was my advice, I even told him not to do anything unless they show a broken fuel hose clip as the main cause.
That's the kind of negligence you can sue a dealership about, it's dangerous and shouldn't happen.

 

ASH8 thanks for the response. The manifold intake they changed was a reman part as well. The whole plastic and metal next to the oil filling cap was all brand new and shiny. They kind of keep me in the dark and cant explain to me exactly what they did even though I requested to talk to the tech who did the job. I told them its ok ill just search the part number or ask over here. It was making noise when I would accelerate.

As I mentioned in my previous post, the car was running great at the time. When I got it back it had nice low end torque. Car felt fresh, I was really happy. All I did was cross the city and go home for lunch. Started it back to go install my exhaust, I never got any warning lights or anything of the sort. Except when the car exploded the check engine was on. Unfortunately I dont have tools to read codes.

Are you sure the engine has to be removed in order to change the manifold?

And also, dont worry about me being nice. I tend to get better results when im nice. All i want is for them to fix the car, pay for my towing and install my exhaust for free. Not much to ask for, I think I deserve it at this point. However, I wont be shy telling them how I feel about a botched job like this.

 

UPDATE:

So I got a call this morning, they said it was the gas line. Apparently there are 2 clips and only one of them was secured.

She said it was gas I saw and not oil. She also said the car starts perfectly and is running great. I said that they probably didnt change the line but she said no. Now im negotiating with them to get my towing fees back and a free install on my exhaust.

Im still kinda curious though, I know it smelt like gas big time, but there is clearly oil in there its still on my finger too. You guys think they are taking me for a ride?

Clearly oil still on my finger and look at the reflection below the car

 

Well, good news on that. Extremely fortunate there wasn't a fire, and the line popping off would only pose an engine damage risk (internals) if you were under load at the time and got a lean spike. So your engine is fine.

The oil.... I think I have to go back to my previous comment regarding the fuel hosing oil from the outside of the engine. All it takes it a few oil changes where the filler wasn't careful with pouring, or the filter leaked oil as it was unscrewed, and you will get alot of buildup across the outside of the engine. Gasoline is fantastic at stripping this off.

 

His engine had just been replaced.
There should be NO oil on the outside of it.

DJFA,

The VERY FIRST thing you should do when you get to the dealer, and they hand you the keys to your car is you should pop the hood, and check the oil level. It should be full, not over filled, nor under filled.

Start the engine, and let it sit there and idle, while you look everywhere for leaking oil under pressure. If you see anything at all that you don't like, complain, right then and there.

Oh, and if you have them swap your convertor for your midpipe, make sure they put that convertor in your trunk. I would even recommend you mark it with a blob of paint. These guys sound like bad news, and I would recommend you use a different dealer in the future.

It doesn't matter if they claim they are the largest dealer in North America, if they are actively ripping you off and stealing your money.

Also, I can understand your desire to want to be nice all the time, but you have to remember, bad people love taking advantage of nice people all the time. The more nice you are about everything, the more they are going to keep stealing from you, and all you're going to do is keep smiling, and letting them rifle through your pockets.

BC.

 

I abbreviated. Yeah, the engine itself should be clear, but what about everything else there? Plenty of stuff to get oil on if someone gets sloppy. UIM, LIM, transmission bellhousing, alternator, etc...

 

If I saw what I thought was "oil" leaking out under my car, the first thing I would do is CHECK THE OIL LEVEL (did you do this?). This happened to me when I had a main seal suddenly fail and quickly dump a lot of oil on a previous car. First thing I did was check the oil level to make sure it had not dropped to a potentially damaging level.

I notice from the photos that it was leaking onto asphalt. I am assuming that it was only fuel leaking, and running across the asphalt made it look oily.

 

When they're done.... and you get your 8 back, don't forget to follow the usual break in procedure...

1. first 1000km don't exceed 4,000RPM
2. first 1000km don't launch under full load
3. first 1000km try to vary your speeds and Revs within 1-4000 and don't hold it at one speed for excessive time (i.e. highways don't use Cruise control).
4. first 1000km don't mash the pedal
5. next 1000km gradually pile on the power. (for every 200km you put on you can then stage up to the next RPM range 5000, 6000 etc.)
6. after 2000km drive it like you stole it !

I have now 4000 km on my new engine... redlining until cutoff since my oil change at 2500km after reman installed.
No problem encountered but i once went higher than 4500rpm in the first week my new motor was installed and i just didn't like the sound... took it easy until i made my first oil change with Brad Penn 10w50 & Wix oil filter... Feels like day & night from the dealer oil filter and Mazda 5w20 oil!....
clubrxquebec.com for more info... or PM me!

 

i bet more happened than just the gas line leakage. Did they say what gas line it was?

 

@Ray AL: Thanks buddy, I already have a little over 1200km on the new engine. I followed this procedure and im now at 6k rpm zone. Im gonna check out rxquebec, I didnt know we had a site!

I am picking up the car tomorrow morning. The 275$ towing will be reimboursed to me by check. I got a free install of my exhaust and an oil change. Not much but hey!

I dont know which line was loose. Im probably gonna go have a look at the car with somebody and I asked them to make sure everything is nice and tight. Today I went back on the highway where the car stalled and there is still a huge patch. Im gonna videotape it tomorrow, probably dangerous and a bad idea, but it really is oil. Gas wouldve evaporated long ago. Maybe it was a mixture of both?

Im trying to figure out if the oil that was lubricating the engine at the time dripped out of the hole where the fuel line is? That possible? I did crank it 3 times for about 10 secs before I figured out it wasnt gonna start anymore.

Ill keep you posted tomorrow. I hope my engine is fine. If it was damaged by the time the 1 year 20000km warranty expires, ill have a low compression engine and there wont be anything I can do about it.

Cheers!

 

There is NO WAY..the oil leak had anything directly to do with the fuel leak....so if it is oil it came from someplace else......

It is too bad you didn't check the oil level before you gave it too them...

Gas will disolve the top layer of asphalt though..and bring up the oil...so you might have been OK....check your oil and see what color it is..if it is really clear they had to add quite a bit and I would ask them to document the incident on your file

 

/\ Dan is also spot on.

djfa...who really knows and WILL the Dealer actually admit what was/went wrong...?

Like I said before, what parts may not have been tightened up correctly after engine swap, and or related to oil circuit.

Could have been a loose Oil Filter, Oil Cooler Line, Oil Filter Body Gasket leak...maybe even too much oil, I take it you still have an Oil Filler Cap?

Unless you actually checked parts to see exactly where the oil was leaking from before dealer return, we can only speculate.

I would be making it known (on record with dealer in writing) what happened, just in case you don't have a 'failure' again that could be related to loss of engine oil, or fuel line issue?

Good luck and let us know.

 

UPDATE:

Got the car back. First thing I did was check the engine bay. There is no oil anywhere everything looks clean. Underneath is spotless too. First thing I did was check the oil. It was a little less than halfway. 3 days ago when I got it back, I know it was full because I checked it. I like to keep it topped off. I said its missing oil so they put 1 quart in. I showed them the pictures and stuff and they dont know how to explain it. I really dont know what else to say or think.

Now when the car is hot, I hear a fast squeaking sound and when I press the clutch it goes away. Even while driving its like a spinning squeaking and always goes away when I press the clutch. Weird....

Car is running great! It seems like there is less low end torque with the midpipe is that possible? Idle is super smooth but the heat in the cabin is still present and slightly hot cupholders. I was stuck in traffic, stop and go high revs... Maybe thats why. I reset fuel trims just now, clean MAF and ESS.

Got my 1 year 20k warranty for now. We'll see in the future how the car goes. A dealer installed a midpipe! How funny is that!

Cheers!

 

Gratz!

The squeaking is your throwout bearing. Pushing in the clutch puts load on this bearing, stopping the squeaking. Clutch engaged (pedal out) means that it's just spinning there freely, but no longer quietly.

The tend to go bad somewhat before the clutch disc itself on our cars. Fixed easily once the transmission is disconnected from the engine, so most usually also replace the clutch while they are in there.

 

Well, the clutch seems to be fine. No slip or anything of the sort. It doesnt have a lot of mileage on it. When it starts to fail I guess ill have to change it in due time. Its just the sound is quite annoying when you try to listen to the sound of the engine.

I think ill be enjoying the car until I have 0 warranty left on it. After that, its gonna be a sell or trade in for either BRZ/FR-S or a series 2 R3. I dont wanna risk it. I know many people are madly in love with their 8 and have no problems/complaints. My experience was different with engine failure and many other parts so im kind of thrown off of owning another 8.

Thanks again for all the help, it is greatly appreciated. You guys have so much knowledge, its incredible.