Targatheory

I've done a lot searching, trust me. But I have some unique issues.

2004 6MT. Purchased used with 60k, currently at 75k. Started premixing a few months after owning the car, every fill up. Replaced plugs and oil start of summer, used rx7 T plugs with two shims on each. Have not gotten around to wires or coils because I've been waiting for BHR.

It's been a month now, and my engine is really problematic. I will not mention mileage because it's been done to death (I just mentioned it hah!).

I cannot drive for more than about twenty minutes before my coolant light turns on, nor can I be on the highway for a long time before it turns on. A few minutes of heater on high (aimed at my feet of course) fixes this. But it always comes back. Thermostat issue, does it makes sense? If anyone knows of all the sensors that deal with engine heat there are in the car I would love to know just for informational/curiosity sake...

The light also comes up the moment I turn the car on, which has never happened i my two years of owning this car. It goes away after a couple minutes.

I checked to see if my fan was running, it works fine.

In San Francisco when the temps were around 95-100, I felt the first noticeable loss of power, which is weird because I did the MSP16 months before along with my own Seafoam procedure.

Here is what is concerning. My friend also has an 8, a 2006 6MT with 12k miles on it. Using an Equus compression tester with both (there were two) check valves removed, my car read 90-0-90-0-90-0-90-0 etc. His car did the same thing, only...120-0-120-0-120-0-120 etc.

I tried as hard as possible to distinguish the 3 faces of the rotors, but the gauge needle definitely went up and down up an down...as in, the needle never held its place as I have seen on RX7 tests on Youtube.

I figure this is the tester's fault, and not an indication of seals being bad, only because the other 8's results were in the same pattern, only it would go up to 120 as opposed to 90(mine).

This upsets me a lot, as 30 psi is a great difference. Starters make a huge difference I know, so I am lost in the dark right now.

Here is the other concerning part. All of my plugs were bright white, indicating over heating correct? No black at all. BUT, on the smooth surface of the plugs, right below the threading, there was oil smeared all over...AND I noticed that the center of the Trailing plugs looked "shaved", as in completely clean, I could see metal smoothed out. Rotor scraping plug?

Now I am here planning out a motor rebuild because of what I saw. But I am no rotary tech, so please help.

I would especially love input from the mods like CRH, RG, Team and all the other great minds here. Sorry for the long post and thank you.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

first,

the engine coolant light is a known issue with the 04s. it is a coolant sensor issue..

at to the rest, well the motor is covered to 8yrs 100k miles. get a real compression check if you have issues.

the plugs tend to come out light grey or oil covered, depending on how the car was run before it was shut off..

the clearance question.. dont have a clue as to why you are running what you have and have no answer!

beers

Targatheory

Oh, I thought it might be a sensor. Any way to gain the location and availability of this part? Is it correctable by my self?

Also, the plugs I got from an online mazda parts dealer that claimed that rx7 trailing plugs could be used; though, when I placed the order, the ad read "OEM..." and I got rx7 plugs which came with shims to avoid this issue I have now.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

U might want to use RX8 stock plugs. they sure cost more, but they also more reliable.

White is not good, tan/brown-ish color is what you want.

oh the coolant sensor? u cant fix it, u have to buy a new bottle. Cuz its "build-in" to the bottle.

Targatheory

Awesome,

I've checked mazmart, mazsport, rx8strakes, any other rx8 websites to order from?

Would it benefit to replace all the heater hoses?

And about the scraping rotor, a dealer would accuse the rx7 plug as the fault right? So is a rebuild possible for the average enthusiast who has never done engine work before (like me)?

Should I stop premixing before I go in for an engine warranty claim?

invasion08

iTrader: (7)

You can keep premixing

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

u can keep premixing, not like they will know, at least with premix ur engine should work before u get a replacement.

get plugs from CRH, he can give ya the best prices shipped.

Targatheory

Thank you all.

I found a fix, I suppose. Added water to one inch above the "fill" line of my reservoir, and added a bottle of redline water wetter.

No light at start! Yes!

But the spark plug scrape is still worrying me.

Question, because it scraped, does that mean that my apex's are now inefficient? Is it damaging enough to the point that even premix won't help the seal?

swoope

iTrader: (5)

the comment means you dont have a clue about anything..

could you post up a photo of the plug.. btw i doubt you got it from onlinemazdaparts.. it just not make sense...

prove me wrong!

beers

Targatheory

I'll try.

It's true I don't know much. And I can't make much of any sense of what I read up. I need easy help, sorry, and thanks..

Targatheory

Well I can't really get a picture up, no camera, and cell phone is giving me a hard time emailing pictures (they wouldn't be too good anyway).

Something weird I noticed. The first time I inspected the plugs, they were completely white. Then I ran Duralube injector/gas cleaner for about a week and looked at them again. The color came back to brownish/tan but on the electrodes of my Leading plugs, which are the RE7CL oems, there were clumps of green corrosion looking matter. It looked a lot like acid corrosion from battery posts.

Coolant? Warranty?

Oh, and it wasn't onlinemazdaparts.com. It was through ebay, Mazsport I believe, but it doesn't matter anymore. I just replaced all four with oems and have my two used Leading plugs (that have green corrosion on them) to use as proof.

I'm at the point where I'm depending on a warranty deal to fall through. I just hope they don't find anything else to blame...but what can they really? It's not like I could replace a head gasket...

Targatheory

Bump, no one seems to care about this thread, which is fine...

BUT, in lieu of making another thread that will be quickly forgotten, I must ask,

I cut the VFad sensor from the MAF sensor wire harness (two wires basically) when I made my own cold air intake. Now that I am in warranty preparation, would this at all cause Ford/Mazda to reject my claim for a new motor?

Though I did this way after my problems, I'm worried they will used this a reason to void my warranty.

Please, I want technical answers if anyone has them. Something I can bring to the dealer with full confidence. And would this cause a CEL?

kersh4w

iTrader: (3)

its not that we dont care, its that we need to see pics.

but if you want, go take it a dealership and do a compression check. if it fails (and it sounds like it will) then you get a new engine.

and stop using rx7 plugs. you can get a full set of rx8 plugs from CRH for $80.

Mazurfer

You got so much **** going on it's really hard for us to tell.
First off..........even though you posted some in the first post, the list has grown and also now you are starting to tell us what you have done to the car. I think I would start over and tell us EVERYTHING......in one place and we'll have a much better chance at helping you.
Progressive disclosure isn't going to help anyone.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

kiss ur warranty bye bye, you should not cut ur VFAD wire in any way.

Mazurfer

I just didn't have the heart to tell him!