Headlight aim
11-18-2004, 10:53 AM
#51
Lubricious
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You might want to check this site:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...nversions.html
Here's a piece of what he has to say:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...nversions.html
Here's a piece of what he has to say:
The only safe and legitimate HID retrofit is one that replaces the entire headlamp—that is lens, reflector, bulb...the WHOLE shemozzle—with optics designed for HID usage. In the aftermarket, it is possible to get clever with the growing number of available products, such as Hella's modular projectors available in HID or halogen, and fabricate your own brackets and bezels, or to modify an original-equipment halogen headlamp housing to contain optical "guts" designed for HID usage. But just putting an HID bulb where a halogen one belongs is bad news all around.
11-18-2004, 11:02 AM
#52
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"""But just putting an HID bulb where a halogen one belongs is bad news all around. """
I didnt just put the HID bulb I changed the ballasts and it uses 35w which is the same as stock or xenon I'm not sure about xenon. I shouldnt have a problem. I didnt just get some cheap HID kit its a well known company. Made in Germany not China.
I didnt just put the HID bulb I changed the ballasts and it uses 35w which is the same as stock or xenon I'm not sure about xenon. I shouldnt have a problem. I didnt just get some cheap HID kit its a well known company. Made in Germany not China.
11-18-2004, 01:41 PM
#53
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slllygrl10 I understand about the ballasts -- no HID bulb is going to work without the required ballast, so it is assumed when saying "just putting in HID bulb...." that yeah, they came with ballasts. The ballast is there to deliver power at the high voltage needed by HID, including the extremely high voltage needed to get it to first light up ("striking the arc").
It's not about the ballast or the wattage, the point of the article is that HID bulbs need different optics (lenses and reflectors). Read the whole article. He explains it well and makes some good points.
It's not about the ballast or the wattage, the point of the article is that HID bulbs need different optics (lenses and reflectors). Read the whole article. He explains it well and makes some good points.
05-30-2005, 12:32 AM
#54
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After reading through all the pages, it seems that the headlights can only be adjusted up and down, and not left to right? Because after installing my springs, my auto-leveling lights came on. I've noticed that my passenger side has moved to the right ie instead of seeing one nice sharp Z, I see this Z Z. Is there a way to DIY to move my passenger light back to the middle and correct the double Z or would I have to see if the dealer would help me on this? Thx.
Al
Al
05-30-2005, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Chino075
After reading through all the pages, it seems that the headlights can only be adjusted up and down, and not left to right? Because after installing my springs, my auto-leveling lights came on. I've noticed that my passenger side has moved to the right ie instead of seeing one nice sharp Z, I see this Z Z. Is there a way to DIY to move my passenger light back to the middle and correct the double Z or would I have to see if the dealer would help me on this? Thx.
Al
Al
I know exactly what they're going to tell you "There is not way for us to adjust the aim" this is what they told me a few weeks ago when I had my headlight lenses replaced. Take it to the dealer, it wont hurt to try.
05-30-2005, 09:30 PM
#56
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Oh wellz, I did take it to the dealer, but said that the auto-leveling malfunction light was due to suspension modification. Guess, I'll try again and see if they could do me a favor and see if they could help me. Or if not, I'll just survive with that light.
Al
Al
06-24-2005, 12:28 AM
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Ok I finally fixed my headlight aim. Since I had my headlight lenses replaced by mazda I know they jacked up the installation some how so I took actions. I removed the 2 front wheels to gain better access behind the headlight. This made so much easier to remove and install back the bulbs. I had wrapped the driver side clip since it was still loose and just tonight I went back down and adjusted the aim.
06-24-2005, 09:25 PM
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Hey slllygrl, can ya take a pic (hhmm, guess this one would be hard since you already put the wheel back) or show how you re-aimed it back? (up/down or left/right) Thx. 
Al
Al
06-25-2005, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Chino075
Hey slllygrl, can ya take a pic (hhmm, guess this one would be hard since you already put the wheel back) or show how you re-aimed it back? (up/down or left/right) Thx.
Al
Al
The bulbs should fit perfectly in the sockets but once you put the clip on you have to make sure that its snug. And if its not then try to wrap the clip(top and bottom portion) evenly with electrical tape. The aim can ONLY be adjusted up and down. When you open the hood and look at the top of the headlight lenses you will see a white plastic and teeth behind it this is where the philip screw driver goes. Turn right to adjust up and turn left to adjust down. Hope this helps.
06-25-2005, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Chino075
Thx slllygrl, guess there is no way to move those suckes left or right. Oh wellz, I'll just have to mingle with it and hopefully don't get shocked :o
Al
Al
If ur trying to move it left/right it just means that its not put in snugly. This is why I suggest to remove the wheels to gain better access.
01-08-2006, 06:29 PM
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Excited about the aim!
I just got my headlights replaced on Thurs. 1/5/06, currently at 15,000 miles. Of course the techs screwed up the alignment, so I thought instead of taking the car back the dealer and waiting and possibly still having the aim screwed up, I'll take matters into my own hands. Finally after 1 1/2 hrs of adjusting and readjusting I got the aim to the exact of where it is suppose to be. The perfect Z pattern and everthing. I even took it for a test drive and no one high-beamed me. It is not as hard as the shop manual makes it seem, actually it is pretty easy, just very time consuming, that is, if you want it perfect. Well, sorry for the long post! I just wanted to help and encourage people to try it themselves first, you might actually surprise yourself.
Have fun!
-Rich
Have fun!
-Rich
01-09-2006, 12:50 PM
#64
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Thanks Rich, I got my car back with 2 new headlight assemblies a little while ago and I believe the driver's beam is much higher than the passenger side. I can see two distinct z-patterns on the road and I can see my driver's beam is brighter when I face a shop window at night. I didn't bother calling the body shop during the holidays and no one high-beams me so I expect the passenger side is low rather than the driver's side being too high.
Your post is encouraging - I'll give it a try.
Your post is encouraging - I'll give it a try.
01-09-2006, 02:39 PM
#65
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You can adjust the lights by removing only 2 screws in the fender liner. Then use a 8mm socket to rotate the adjusting nut. I did mine in 10 minutes. That might because i've done it a 100 times already.
03-08-2006, 08:15 PM
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Ok guys I dont accualy own an RX* I just own RX8 headlights Anyway I can see theres ALOT of confusion on here and maybe I can help, I have one of the headlights here with me so I took a few pics for you guys.
It is of an HID Passengers Headlight with the Auto Aim feature.
The adjustment is in fact the White thing on the back which can be adjucted fron the back with a flathead or a 10mm socket, or from the top(engine bay) with a long large phillips.
The Z is formed by the cutoff plates inside the projector and pics are below.
The OEM HID Ballasts:
The INSIDE of an HID projector:
The Manual Adjustment:
My 2001 Sunfire dosent exactly have the system setup for self leveling so Im going to wire this to a 3 way switch so I can simply flip a toggle up or down to aim the headlights higher or lower
Oh and this is the drivers headlight half done:
Anyway I can see theres ALOT of confusion on here and maybe I can help, I have one of the headlights here with me so I took a few pics for you guys.It is of an HID Passengers Headlight with the Auto Aim feature.
The adjustment is in fact the White thing on the back which can be adjucted fron the back with a flathead or a 10mm socket, or from the top(engine bay) with a long large phillips.
The Z is formed by the cutoff plates inside the projector and pics are below.
The OEM HID Ballasts:
The INSIDE of an HID projector:
The Manual Adjustment:
My 2001 Sunfire dosent exactly have the system setup for self leveling so Im going to wire this to a 3 way switch so I can simply flip a toggle up or down to aim the headlights higher or lower
Oh and this is the drivers headlight half done:
06-24-2006, 11:38 AM
#67
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Thanks for those photos. I just had my headlights replaced recently and now they're screwed up. Maybe my old headlights were somewhat different than the replacements. In any case, now I have two slightly different problems.
The lights have a super bright area which is pointed straight at the ground basically. Maybe illuminates 20 feet in front of the car. They also have a less bright area that illuminates about 20 feet into the air, hundreds of feet ahead of the car. Both areas of light have very distinct cutoffs to them.
Before I could have sworn my lights only had one light pool, which was higher up (but not blinding to oncoming drivers).
What do other people's lights do?
I'm thinking of trying to adjust the upper (less bright) area down lower so it's not twenty feet in the air. I'd also like to adjust the lower (very bright) area up so that it's lighting up the road more than twenty feet ahead of me. Is there a way to adjust those two areas independantly? It doesn't seem that there is, but figured I'd ask.
The lights have a super bright area which is pointed straight at the ground basically. Maybe illuminates 20 feet in front of the car. They also have a less bright area that illuminates about 20 feet into the air, hundreds of feet ahead of the car. Both areas of light have very distinct cutoffs to them.
Before I could have sworn my lights only had one light pool, which was higher up (but not blinding to oncoming drivers).
What do other people's lights do?
I'm thinking of trying to adjust the upper (less bright) area down lower so it's not twenty feet in the air. I'd also like to adjust the lower (very bright) area up so that it's lighting up the road more than twenty feet ahead of me. Is there a way to adjust those two areas independantly? It doesn't seem that there is, but figured I'd ask.
06-26-2006, 11:12 AM
#68
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Originally Posted by alcimedes
Thanks for those photos. I just had my headlights replaced recently and now they're screwed up. Maybe my old headlights were somewhat different than the replacements. In any case, now I have two slightly different problems.
The lights have a super bright area which is pointed straight at the ground basically. Maybe illuminates 20 feet in front of the car. They also have a less bright area that illuminates about 20 feet into the air, hundreds of feet ahead of the car. Both areas of light have very distinct cutoffs to them.
Before I could have sworn my lights only had one light pool, which was higher up (but not blinding to oncoming drivers).
What do other people's lights do?
I'm thinking of trying to adjust the upper (less bright) area down lower so it's not twenty feet in the air. I'd also like to adjust the lower (very bright) area up so that it's lighting up the road more than twenty feet ahead of me. Is there a way to adjust those two areas independantly? It doesn't seem that there is, but figured I'd ask.
The lights have a super bright area which is pointed straight at the ground basically. Maybe illuminates 20 feet in front of the car. They also have a less bright area that illuminates about 20 feet into the air, hundreds of feet ahead of the car. Both areas of light have very distinct cutoffs to them.
Before I could have sworn my lights only had one light pool, which was higher up (but not blinding to oncoming drivers).
What do other people's lights do?
I'm thinking of trying to adjust the upper (less bright) area down lower so it's not twenty feet in the air. I'd also like to adjust the lower (very bright) area up so that it's lighting up the road more than twenty feet ahead of me. Is there a way to adjust those two areas independantly? It doesn't seem that there is, but figured I'd ask.
Do you see two distinct stair-step patterns in the cut-off lines? That's how mine came back from the dealer. On flat pavement I have one cut-off line with one stair-step, but on any incline the two headlight beams diverge and I see two cutoff lines and two stair-steps on the road.
06-27-2006, 09:11 AM
#69
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I got them aimed properly last night. The driver's side was waaaaay up in the air, passenger's side was pointed to the ground. Nice Z pattern now.
One thing I did notice though was that the replacement headlights don't seem nearly as blue or bright as what I had in there before. I have a base model so they aren't the xenon headlights, but I swear I notice a huge difference. Anyone else think their replacements weren't as bright as the orginals?
One thing I did notice though was that the replacement headlights don't seem nearly as blue or bright as what I had in there before. I have a base model so they aren't the xenon headlights, but I swear I notice a huge difference. Anyone else think their replacements weren't as bright as the orginals?
07-22-2006, 06:41 PM
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I adjusted my right headlight today after a week of driving with the all of the light output shining straight down. I finally got my car back last week after 2 months in the body shop and $17k worth of damage which included replacing my right headlight. Obviously the body shop didn't check the aim.
Here's what I discovered about the up/ down adjustment - If you have the fender liner off, you can rip off that white piece of plastic that surrounds the adjusting device.
What a joke of a way to adjust your headlights when the white plastic thing is on. Without that white plastic piece, you can move the circular adjuster (the thing with teeth - like a gear) by hand to easily adjust up or down. Make sure to keep the bolt that is secured to the gear tight against it.
This time I took the wheel off and the fender liner, but if I need any future adjustments, I suspect I won't need to take off the wheel and probably can reach in and turn the gear by only removing only a few fender liner screws.
Here's what I discovered about the up/ down adjustment - If you have the fender liner off, you can rip off that white piece of plastic that surrounds the adjusting device.
What a joke of a way to adjust your headlights when the white plastic thing is on. Without that white plastic piece, you can move the circular adjuster (the thing with teeth - like a gear) by hand to easily adjust up or down. Make sure to keep the bolt that is secured to the gear tight against it.
This time I took the wheel off and the fender liner, but if I need any future adjustments, I suspect I won't need to take off the wheel and probably can reach in and turn the gear by only removing only a few fender liner screws.
08-08-2006, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr M
I would like to correct my last post, there is no need to initialize the levelling unit (I was thinking of Mazda6).
Adjusting the headlights is as easy as twisting a phillips screwdriver, clockwise to adjust up, and anti-clockwise to adjust down. There is a round protrusion coming out the back of your headlight, with a hole in the top for this. Make sure you finish off by screwing in the clockwise direction, otherwise the adjuster may back off and you headlight adjustment will change (probably what your dealer did).
You need a white board or wall 9.8 feet away, and to mark the center position of the lights on it. Point X (below) of the headlight beam should be about an inch below the center position you marked on the board for each headlight. Leave the engine running while you do this, or your battery may go flat (there should be one person in the driver's seat too).
.................................../----------------------------------------
............not................./
....illuminated............../ illuminated area
............................./
_______________X
|
|
|
|__________________________________________
Don't adjust them too high!
Adjusting the headlights is as easy as twisting a phillips screwdriver, clockwise to adjust up, and anti-clockwise to adjust down. There is a round protrusion coming out the back of your headlight, with a hole in the top for this. Make sure you finish off by screwing in the clockwise direction, otherwise the adjuster may back off and you headlight adjustment will change (probably what your dealer did).
You need a white board or wall 9.8 feet away, and to mark the center position of the lights on it. Point X (below) of the headlight beam should be about an inch below the center position you marked on the board for each headlight. Leave the engine running while you do this, or your battery may go flat (there should be one person in the driver's seat too).
.................................../----------------------------------------
............not................./
....illuminated............../ illuminated area
............................./
_______________X
|
|
|
|__________________________________________
Don't adjust them too high!
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