exhaust spring washers
#1
The Chief
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 827
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
exhaust spring washers
Does anyone know what the purpose of the spring washers that hold the exhaust to the cat pipe? The guy at the dealer said that they were for shock resistance, but I could tell that he really wasn't too sure and was just taking a guess. I thought that maybe it was to allow the pipes to expand and contract at different exhaust temps. When I put my Borla on, I easily torqued them until the springs were fully compressed. Manufacture specs are 40 ft lbs but I didn't even have any resistance at all until the springs were completely compressed. The same thing happened on vIce's Corksport. I'm thinking of just taking them off and installing lock washers in their place.
#2
The Professor
They are so the exhaust can flex as you go over bumps and such. I don't know if you noticed, but the cat is connected to the header which is connected to the motor which is connected to the chassis, these are rigid connections.
Now, the muffler is suspended by rubber hangers and does sway around while the car is moving.
That would be an awful lot of stress on the header/motor.
The springs should not be fully compressed.
Now, the muffler is suspended by rubber hangers and does sway around while the car is moving.
That would be an awful lot of stress on the header/motor.
The springs should not be fully compressed.
#3
The Chief
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 827
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by staticlag
I don't know if you noticed, but the cat is connected to the header which is connected to the motor which is connected to the chassis, these are rigid connections.
Now, the muffler is suspended by rubber hangers and does sway around while the car is moving.
That would be an awful lot of stress on the header/motor.
The springs should not be fully compressed.
Now, the muffler is suspended by rubber hangers and does sway around while the car is moving.
That would be an awful lot of stress on the header/motor.
The springs should not be fully compressed.
Last edited by jskup1; 05-11-2006 at 08:24 AM.
#5
The Chief
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 827
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Maybe I'm just being a little too sensitive today but the 2nd sentence in his reply struck me the wrong way (I don't know if you noticed, but the cat is connected to the header which is connected to the motor which is connected to the chassis) like I didn't know that?
#6
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by jskup1
Maybe I'm just being a little too sensitive today but the 2nd sentence in his reply struck me the wrong way (I don't know if you noticed, but the cat is connected to the header which is connected to the motor which is connected to the chassis) like I didn't know that?
anyways, I echo the above...the springs allow for the necessary flex at that point in the system. Don't fully compress them. When I replaced my cat-back I did not have a torque wrench and simply tightened the nuts to where the spring was about 1/2 compress and I have no leaks that I'm aware of.
#8
The Chief
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 827
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by apotocki
Doesn't appear to be a smartass comment to me either...but....
anyways, I echo the above...the springs allow for the necessary flex at that point in the system. Don't fully compress them. When I replaced my cat-back I did not have a torque wrench and simply tightened the nuts to where the spring was about 1/2 compress and I have no leaks that I'm aware of.
anyways, I echo the above...the springs allow for the necessary flex at that point in the system. Don't fully compress them. When I replaced my cat-back I did not have a torque wrench and simply tightened the nuts to where the spring was about 1/2 compress and I have no leaks that I'm aware of.
#9
No Gods For Me
I replaced my stock exhaust with a Mazdaspeed dual sport a couple of weeks ago. If I remember correctly, the bolts attached to the flange have a small stop on them. The threads also don't go the length of the bolt. So, when you put the springs on then the nut/washer you can only tighten down the nut until you either hit the stop or run out of thread. At that point you can torque the nut. My springs looked ALMOST compressed all the way. I think that still allows the joint to flex, but only a little bit. I am sure Mazda is concerned about exhaust gases leaking out the joint, so they need a tight but flexible fit between the pipe and cat.
#10
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
the nuts are suppose to be tightened all the way until they hit the end of the threaded stud area. The springs will not be fully compessed once this is accomplished, but they will be at the proper tension point, it's designed to work this way. There's no way to overtighten them unless you put a bunch of washers between the nut and the spring. You can only undertighten them by not cranking the nut down to the end of the threads ...
ps: even my 10 yr old niece isn't that oversensitive ...
ps: even my 10 yr old niece isn't that oversensitive ...
#12
The Chief
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 827
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
the nuts are suppose to be tightened all the way until they hit the end of the threaded stud area. The springs will not be fully compessed once this is accomplished, but they will be at the proper tension point, it's designed to work this way. There's no way to overtighten them unless you put a bunch of washers between the nut and the spring. You can only undertighten them by not cranking the nut down to the end of the threads ...
ps: even my 10 yr old niece isn't that oversensitive ...
ps: even my 10 yr old niece isn't that oversensitive ...
Last edited by jskup1; 05-11-2006 at 08:14 PM.
#13
I already searched!!!!!!!
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Omaha, Nebraska
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So does anybody know? Should we be tightening them all the way to the end of the threads or should we be leaving them so the springs have some gap between coils and just pressure?
#14
No Gods For Me
I think TeamRX8 and I made it pretty clear. Yes, tighten the nuts down and torque them to spec. The springs will be at the proper tention and life will be wonderful. So crank and torque away!
#15
The Chief
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 827
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by kwolfman
I think TeamRX8 and I made it pretty clear. Yes, tighten the nuts down and torque them to spec. The springs will be at the proper tention and life will be wonderful. So crank and torque away!
#17
The Chief
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 827
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
sorry, I just have to say it:
I hate stupid people
I hate stupid people
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
yurcivicsux
Series I Major Horsepower Upgrades
192
09-12-2017 10:54 PM