Esmeril Racing Battery Kit
08-10-2009, 03:10 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Esmeril Racing Battery Kit
no, i don't have the turbo but i want to relocate my battery, and im too scared to put it in the trunk ( if anything happens, i rather not have something decapitate me ). so yeah im wondering if anyone has this kit w/ out the turbo, if its good / bad and reliable
heres the link: http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDet...000-1229037362
oh yeah btw, it looks awfully close to the intake, would it affect temperatures anyhow?
heres the link: http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDet...000-1229037362
oh yeah btw, it looks awfully close to the intake, would it affect temperatures anyhow?
12-20-2009, 05:39 PM
#4
Well, since you don't have the turbo, I don't think this kit makes sense. It puts the battery on the driver's side, which, while that might make sense with the turbo kit (to offset the weight of the turbo) does not make sense for the rest of us - you want the battery on the passenger's side, to offset the weight of the driver.
Plus, if you are going to relocate but keep it in the engine compartment, focus on moving the battery as low as possible and as close to the firewalll as possible, while keeping it on the passenger's side. This will help minimize the mass moment of inertia of the car, which is one of the objectives of getting (and relocating) a lighter battery.
The other, of course, is weight. I use an Odyssey PC680 in the summer, located in the stock position, using my own cobbled-together mounting system. Worked great for me all summer, although I did pull it out for the winter, and on longer road trips (mostly for autocrosses for me) I hauled a booster box just in case. Never had to use it, but came close once.
Yes, there still is a little performance for me to be gained by relocating against the firewall, but it just didn't seem worth the hassle to me last summer. I may take it to that next step this year, however.
Plus, if you are going to relocate but keep it in the engine compartment, focus on moving the battery as low as possible and as close to the firewalll as possible, while keeping it on the passenger's side. This will help minimize the mass moment of inertia of the car, which is one of the objectives of getting (and relocating) a lighter battery.
The other, of course, is weight. I use an Odyssey PC680 in the summer, located in the stock position, using my own cobbled-together mounting system. Worked great for me all summer, although I did pull it out for the winter, and on longer road trips (mostly for autocrosses for me) I hauled a booster box just in case. Never had to use it, but came close once.
Yes, there still is a little performance for me to be gained by relocating against the firewall, but it just didn't seem worth the hassle to me last summer. I may take it to that next step this year, however.
12-22-2009, 06:04 PM
#6
I don't recall the specs off-hand - plenty of info out there, and on this forum if you do a little searching.
Mine worked fine for me during the warmer months. Only close call I had was at a rest stop where I snoozed for a bit and forgot to turn the lights off - couldn't have been more than 5 or 10 minutes tops. Woke up, turned the lights off, and snoozed for another 30 minutes, then drove away no problem. However, I'm sure if I had gone much longer the battery would have gone flat.
I run one because it's allowed in the SCCA rule set, and weight is the enemy of performance. However, for a strictly street driven car, I'm not sure it's worth the risk. Like I said, for long trips I carried a booster box in case I had problems.
I mounted mine in the stock location, using an autozone rubber battery hold-down and some threaded rod. The stock battery holder easily splits into two parts - I left the lower half bolted to the car, and drilled a couple of holes in the bottom for the threaded rod. Pretty basic, but it worked just fine for autocross work.
Mine worked fine for me during the warmer months. Only close call I had was at a rest stop where I snoozed for a bit and forgot to turn the lights off - couldn't have been more than 5 or 10 minutes tops. Woke up, turned the lights off, and snoozed for another 30 minutes, then drove away no problem. However, I'm sure if I had gone much longer the battery would have gone flat.
I run one because it's allowed in the SCCA rule set, and weight is the enemy of performance. However, for a strictly street driven car, I'm not sure it's worth the risk. Like I said, for long trips I carried a booster box in case I had problems.
I mounted mine in the stock location, using an autozone rubber battery hold-down and some threaded rod. The stock battery holder easily splits into two parts - I left the lower half bolted to the car, and drilled a couple of holes in the bottom for the threaded rod. Pretty basic, but it worked just fine for autocross work.
01-11-2010, 04:40 PM
#8
Registered Noob
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Island (Suffolk), NY
Posts: 808
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have the Esmeril kit. I've killed that battery pretty good and had to replace it (through a combination of several mistakes on my part, but some blame does fall on the tiny battery). Cold weather is pretty brutal on batteries of this size, and I was not appropriately cautious. If you have a battery of this size in cold weather, you basically need to drive it every day. I would not let the car sit for 2 full days without driving in freezing temperatures. You will make good friends with a Battery Tender, or other similar trickle charger.
The CCA on the Esmeril battery is 270, the one I ended up replacing it (after it was rendered pretty dead) with was 300, or maybe 320. A modest improvement.
If you are going through the trouble of relocating the battery anyway, I say you might as well put it in the trunk. If I had to do it all over again, I'd have put a fullsize battery in the trunk rather than use a tiny battery. In fact, I'll probably do that eventually anyway. It doesn't seem that you can crank out legitimate compression test numbers with a battery this size.
The CCA on the Esmeril battery is 270, the one I ended up replacing it (after it was rendered pretty dead) with was 300, or maybe 320. A modest improvement.
If you are going through the trouble of relocating the battery anyway, I say you might as well put it in the trunk. If I had to do it all over again, I'd have put a fullsize battery in the trunk rather than use a tiny battery. In fact, I'll probably do that eventually anyway. It doesn't seem that you can crank out legitimate compression test numbers with a battery this size.
01-11-2010, 07:09 PM
#9
I'm probably going the intermediate route, rather than going from the ~47 lb stock battery to a 15 lb minibattery, going to a 25 lb unit instead.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ODY-PC925MJT/
It's a 380 CCA rating which should give a reasonable margin of electrical reserve and still take 20 lbs off the nose of the car.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ODY-PC925MJT/
It's a 380 CCA rating which should give a reasonable margin of electrical reserve and still take 20 lbs off the nose of the car.
01-11-2010, 07:13 PM
#10
Registered Noob
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Island (Suffolk), NY
Posts: 808
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That sounds like a fine compromise. I think that this small battery size is borderline inadequate, and in terms of the Esmeril relocation, this small size is as large as you can go in that particular spot. If you want anything bigger than the mini battery, I'd just say to hell with it and put it in the trunk.
01-12-2010, 01:41 AM
#14
Registered Noob
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Island (Suffolk), NY
Posts: 808
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well... that battery would certainly fit in that tiny spot AND have enough power...
I stand corrected! (even though its way too expensive to consider)
I stand corrected! (even though its way too expensive to consider)
03-23-2010, 08:26 PM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Massapequa
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://www.amazon.com/Braille-Batter.../dp/B001JHJ12Q
Hmm curious dnt u think? If the cca was a little higher
Hmm curious dnt u think? If the cca was a little higher
03-25-2010, 03:58 PM
#16
I'm probably going the intermediate route, rather than going from the ~47 lb stock battery to a 15 lb minibattery, going to a 25 lb unit instead.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ODY-PC925MJT/
It's a 380 CCA rating which should give a reasonable margin of electrical reserve and still take 20 lbs off the nose of the car.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ODY-PC925MJT/
It's a 380 CCA rating which should give a reasonable margin of electrical reserve and still take 20 lbs off the nose of the car.
03-25-2010, 04:56 PM
#17
Lubricious
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: SF Bay Area, California
Posts: 3,425
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
But I doubt that the box is there to contain fumes -- there are no vent tubes to carry such out of the car, it's open to the engine bay. More likely the reasons for the box are:
- protect against shorts
- allow cooling by directing outside air over the battery
- aesthetics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Modified Dave
Canada For Sale/Wanted
9
09-19-2015 08:58 PM
