OmegaRX8

Hi, first time poster, but I've been lurking around the boards for over a year now. My automatic 2004 rx8 has been having problems ever since I purchased it and just recently it completely broke down. I'll give a short explentation of the history, but my general question is if anyone has had this problem or if anyone knows the cause/solution.

I purchased my 2004 with about 14k miles on it about a year and a half ago from a "certified" mazda dealer. Since then I'm now at about 34k miles. During that time period I've had all the service bulletins taken care of. It worked perfectly for about the first few weeks, but from the very beginning I had a problem where it would take 10-15 seconds for it to turn over. It never happens constantly, its pretty random. Sometimes it will fire right up and sometimes it will sputter a bit and then fire up. During the last year or so I've had the flooding issue once, replaced the battery, starter all under warranty etc.

Now to the problem. Over the last few months, on three sperate occasions, while accelerating from stop to 40-70mph I've experienced a situation where the check engine light pops on and the car will not accelerate out of third gear and in to fourth gear. I'm pushing on the gas under normal acceleration, it hits third gear and is the point where it should shift in to fourth and instead of shifting in to fourth there is a loss of acceleration power and the check engine light pops on. You can hear only what I can desribe as a small backfire and from there I have to pull over. The last time it happend I was able to get it started again and I drove it over to the dealer.

The current problem is that this last saturday, while going to my gf parents for her dads birthday, I was merging on to the interstate accelerating from 20mph up to about 70mph and the car did the same thing. I get to where it should shift in to fourth, but instead it "misfires" and I can't accelerate, all I can do is pull over to the shoulder. The problem this time is that when I get the car stopped (0mph) it immediatlly begins to sputter and dies. I try cranking it over and it starts up after about 10 seconds, but its sputtering and puting with the rpm gauge jumping up and down between 1k and 3k rpm. Check engine light keeps poping on. I turn it off and wait about 10 or so minutes and try it again. This time it cranks but sputters and wont turn over. I have it at the dealer atm, their pretty booked up. But I've taken it to the same dealer several times for the same issue, but it just seems they do a temp fix, get it running for a month or so, then I'm back on the side of the road trying to start my car.

Any help in addressing what the cause of this could be is appreciated. I do regular maintenance, change oil, filter, give it premium gas etc. I usually have to add a bit of oil every few weeks (seems like it eats oil like crazy, but I've never actually tracked how much 1-2 quarts a month or more).

My only problem at this point is its unreliable. I need my car to be ready when I need it and at this point its hit or miss if it will even start.

I did perform a search and found some posts about hi rev misfires, battery drains etc., But, not ones where a misfire and then power lose caused the engine to completey shut off and then wouldn't start again. Like I said, it does crank, it just wont fire again, sputters and puting the entire time with the cel going off non-stop.

Thanks in advance

Hightshoe

Sounds like its going into "limp" mode. I would try a new dealer if the one you keep going to can't diagnose the problem. As for why it would be going into limp mode, there could be many reasons. The check engine light should tell them the reason, not to sure why they would have a problem figuring it out.

OmegaRX8

Another note, I did read and took the car in for the engine recall service. The dealer said they did the service, washed the car and said everything was fine (this was after the first "misfire"/"lose of power"). Since then its happend twice, including this last saturday. I like my car when it runs, but with 34k miles on it, I shouldn't be having these problems. I can deal with a 5-10 second start delay as long as nothing is wrong and the car will actually start.

One last thing to note, the first two times there was a significant amount of whitish/grey smoke (lasted like 20-30 seconds after starting). This last time there wasn't any. The dealer said this was water vapor and nothing to worry about. (although I worry anytime a car smokes when its this new).

Thanks again in advance for any help you all can offer.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

The engine recall service has nothing to do with your problem. the recall service was just an OMP increase.

It seems that you have an AT and you baby your car alot .... I mean come on people even Piston engine dies faster if you baby them .... not to mention Rotary Engine !@

Dealers will most likely change your plugs to some brand new one. As soon as you get ur car back, Get some Fuel injector cleaner or something, dump it in, Rev the **** out of your car, keep it at 6 even 7 K rpm for at LEAST a minute or 2, It's not that hard to do.

Like my car, got her when she has only 15 miles, now 25500 miles after a year and 1/2 still running strong. no problems whatsoever, I rev her at least every day or the other at 9K for couple of minutes, I only use RP Full Synthetic Oil and I premix as well

OmegaRX8

Actually I drive her as recommended on this site. I get her to 7k rpm after she's warmed up constantly. I don't drive like I stole it, but I don't by any means baby her. I don't go a drive without hitting high rpm's at least twice because that was the recommendation on this board. In fact peddle to the floor is pretty much how I accelerate when appropriate. (traffic wise) I bought it to drive it, so thats what I do. But thanks for the assumption and suggestion. If you recommend fuel injector cleaner, then which do you recommend? Any kind will do or a specific one is best?

Anyone else had this problem?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Since you got it used, it might have been abused by the previous owner, cuz alot of people dont know **** about the car at all, it just look *cool* to them, they got it, never change oil and never rev it.

See what your dealership say first. Tell them to run compression test on it or something.

OmegaRX8

I thought the recall also included a vacum seal test to make sure the engine was sealed. My only assumption was that the misfires, sputtering starts, hard smoking (on two occasions where the main misfires occured) could be occuring because the seals were/are going bad. The dealer keeps pulling the cels, patching whatever it is up and says its fixed. Then a month or so later it happens again and i'm stuck on the side of the road.

I figured with most the posts on here, someone would have had the problem before? I bought it from a "certified" mazda dealer who did the required inspections etc. Not sure if the previous driver babied it, but babying for 14k up front can seriously cause this much engine issues for the next 15k? And if so why wouldn't the manual specifically say "drive it like you stole it or risk dmging your engine". Not saying that for my purposes because I have this board, but in general.

Thanks again for any help.

Jax_RX8

Sounds like Plugs need replaced at a minimum.

May have other bigger issues - probably need to have dealer run compression check and check the catalyst to see if it is clogged (have you done the 4206F recall as these checks are part of that?). If you have low compression or clogged catalyst, only replacement will fix.

If not motor/catalyst - new plugs, new coils, clean MAF, and shock cleaning dose of a fuel cleaner are places to start to get it back running properly.

lone_wolf025

Hate to say it but the majority of the driving public doesn't read the owner's manual let alone even understand what the book flopping around in their glovebox is actually for...

XRX8X

bet you guys 10-1 the cat is gone bad.what hapens is mostly when it's cool very few problems come to view.this is where i have a problem.the dealer should be able to I D the problem altho some do not follow the golden rule of finding and taking care of the problem at hand.maybe they don't have a mazda tech.that knows the rotory engine that well.no excuse in my eyes.with a 6sp i always hit the sweet spot everyday two times minimal.i have had the new starter,plugs,battery,cat.converter,recalls all done.i warm it up to see the temp. needle move then i move but not over 4,000 r.p.m untill it warms up 39,000 and lovin it!i hopr you get your car to someone who 1.cares for your car2.takes care of your problem.3.agrees with you that this is not normal.the codes are there to help..maybe these guys are guessing instead of fixing the real problem which could be the fuel pump is flooding your car as you drive since it's not a manuel 6sp.you can't rev it up to burn off that extra fuel.

OmegaRX8

The first time I had this problem I took it in and at the same time took in my 4206F letter and had them perform those services. I explained the entire problem seperatly from the 4206F recall letter. They said they did the recall and checked and that the recall itself should have resolved the issue. They didn't say anything was bad (catalyst etc.) Just replaced the plugs, pcm update etc. It then occured about two weeks to a month after that and I took it back in. They said they checked it, nothing was wrong. It then was ok until this last saturday (probably a month or so) at which point its pretty much dead. I guess I thought the 4206F recall checks would have found the issue if it was the catalyst or another problem, but now I'm wondering if their truely looking for the cause or just performing the "normal" services and hopeing that resolves it.

By "OK" I dont mean that it ran perfectly, it just didn't give the power lose under acceleration. I still experienced the normal 10-15 second delayed starts, some puting while trying to start at random intervals etc. But at least it started.

I'm still waiting on them to get my car in, as it is supposed to be a bad storm tonight and their pretty much booked up on normal maintenance stuff today.

One question, other then asking them about a rotary specialist, how can I get a list of locations that specialize in the rx8 or specifically the engine? I know of three dealerships in the area, I'm taking it to the closest one (not the one I purchased from). Just wondering if there is maybe a way of finding out the best dealer up front. This dealer has always been nice, always given a loaner, just not sure if its a lack of knowledge or simply an undiagnosed issue.

I know some have had luck contacting Mazda north america and getting a tech sent out, but is that the way to go or simply wait and find out?

I don't really care who does it, but I just want it diagnosed and finally fixed properly. The car is a blast when it actually starts and runs.

I'll have them check the catalyst and perform a compression test.

Thanks for the help so far and if anyone else has a suggestion or experienced this problem please let me know.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

NOT TRUE.

Mazda said it, does NOT mean those stealerships will follow. There is NO way to tell if they really did the vacum test, unless you WATCH them .... (doubt it) they probably just flash ur ECU and called it a day.

So what happens now is that, get them to replace the plugs again, and RUN compression test. Cuz there is a chance that the original owner already fuxked the engine up so bad that the seals(side or Apex) are finally giving up ..... cuz it really sound like a bad seal issue ...

Have them check the CAT as well.

Most stealership give their customers BS because they always assume that they dont know ****. Just research on this forum (or google) on the car, do ur homework, walk in and throw them a bunch of stuff that even they dont know anything about, a good example would be start talking about "I think side housing is bad because I think my motor is losing compression"

just some bs ya know, confuse them and they will do what they gotta do.

6dmnbg

The way you describe your engine problems sounds exactly like my motor when I blew one of the apex seals on the front rotor. I was merging onto the free way, flooring it, and then I hear a loud pop and that was it dead motor. Well not exactly, it still had enough in it to get me off the freeway and into a parking lot. Then I had to have it towed to my house. At first I thought that mabey my plugs went bad. I was able to start the car if I held the gas down all the way and then let it up about half way when it was just about to start. I was messing with it for about two days until my neighbor who worked for mazda as a mechanic for 22 years did what he called an okey compression test. All he did was remove the leading spark plug and disconected the coil and had me turn the car over. He said that you should hear a loud swoosh sound and my car was doing none of that. He removed the rear leading plug and thats when I heard the swoosh. But the differences in our cars is that yours is an auto and mine is a 6spd with turbo.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

you won't solve this problem on teh intrawebs

OmegaRX8

I heard back from the dealership today and according to them the excentric shaft and cam were out of alignment. They also had to deflood it (assuming the multi-starts in a short amount of time I/they were doing trying to get it started). Replaced the spark plugs etc. The stored code was for a misfire and nothing else.

I asked them to run the catalyst and compression test and he said they always run those when trying to diagnose an issue like this. (I'm not sure what it takes to perform these test, but does that sound like blowing smoke to you all?)

Lots of snow here, but after its cleared up a bit I'm considering taking it to another dealer for another opinion. You all think thats wise?

Thanks again for the help

XRX8X

for what it's worth give it time to come together.if they say it was the excentric shaft and cam were out of alighnment so be it problem should be gone.my question would be how the hell did that happen and hope it won't happen again!!the computer should have more codes than that IMO .let us know how it turns out.

OmegaRX8

I plan to give it about a month or so and see what happens. I'll post any details from the service write up and over the next month or so as I get that info.

My main question is, if the excentric shaft was out of alignment, could it have caused dmg to the shaft/housing and how would you be able to tell that without taking it out and inspecting it. I'm not sure how it got out of alignment as they just had it in the shop twice before and they didn't find that problem (although its possible its been there this whole time). I don't want to come up on 50k and find out that the shaft has completely seized or somthing because of dmg that occured because of it being out of alignment.

Anyone know of a way to check/test the shaft without actually taking it out? Or is it one of those wait and see things?

Jax_RX8

Now you've peaked my interest! Please keep us informed as I think this is a untapped mod area with great potential.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

i have a harrness and coils. if you need to provide them to your person...

beers