DIY Request Badge Removal
#2
space reserved for shirt
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Pasadena,ca for school SD for home
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ok.
listen.
Heat with Hair dryer,
Easiest way was to slip something underneath the badges like a
hotel key card. (plastic and wont own your paint)
after that take the glue off with Goo Gone bought at your friendly kragen.
listen.
Heat with Hair dryer,
Easiest way was to slip something underneath the badges like a
hotel key card. (plastic and wont own your paint)
after that take the glue off with Goo Gone bought at your friendly kragen.
#10
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
hair dryer or I prefer a heat gun takes less time.
heat area for 8-10 seconds.
use a card or plastic putty knife.
then get treesap/bug remover to get the stock adhesive off.
I'm planning on blacking mine out soon. not to keen on the delete..
everything is going gloss black on my exterior, well the plastic at least.
heat area for 8-10 seconds.
use a card or plastic putty knife.
then get treesap/bug remover to get the stock adhesive off.
I'm planning on blacking mine out soon. not to keen on the delete..
everything is going gloss black on my exterior, well the plastic at least.
#15
I know wat he means. When you take the flying M and the Mazda badges off there are holes there. Doesnt matter how easy they come off. I actually got mine off just by slidin my nails underneath them, but once I saw the holes, I just popped the badges back on..
#18
ive done this many times, for a good temp covering of the holes, once the badge is off and you clean the area inside and out with alcohol, put masking tape, blue painters kind covering the hole on the outside of the car, on the inside of the trunk, when you take the plastic cover off you can see the holes covered with the masking tape,
use a pea size amount of bondo, just enough to fill the hole so it can be popped out later when you find a shop to paint it. once its dried you take the tape off on the outside of the car, it should be flush with the surface, no sanding, DO NOT SAND, leave that to the pro's. if your like me, when you buy a car you buy touchup paint for chips, use the touchup paint and dabble the small area, they are tiny, only about 2mm......ive had them hold up for 4 months through the winter before i got it painted. Im about to do this to my 8 next week, ill post a lil DIY. its easy sh*t
oh yeah, this is ASSUMING, you are ultimitaly going to take your car to the shop to get them to do it right, this is only a TEMP thing, by having the bondo set on macking tape to dry, it acts more as a plug than actual body molding.
use a pea size amount of bondo, just enough to fill the hole so it can be popped out later when you find a shop to paint it. once its dried you take the tape off on the outside of the car, it should be flush with the surface, no sanding, DO NOT SAND, leave that to the pro's. if your like me, when you buy a car you buy touchup paint for chips, use the touchup paint and dabble the small area, they are tiny, only about 2mm......ive had them hold up for 4 months through the winter before i got it painted. Im about to do this to my 8 next week, ill post a lil DIY. its easy sh*t
oh yeah, this is ASSUMING, you are ultimitaly going to take your car to the shop to get them to do it right, this is only a TEMP thing, by having the bondo set on macking tape to dry, it acts more as a plug than actual body molding.
Last edited by notorque; 01-06-2009 at 10:49 AM. Reason: clarify
#24
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Join Date: Jul 2008
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I'm in the process of doing mine the way Semiazas suggested...blackened. Used the blow-dryer method with the heat set on low and one of those Quickpass plastic keychain cards to get underneath 'em and separate. I've read it before but do be careful on the 'mazda' emblem...it can split 'tween the a-z and the z-d fairly easily so work that one from the top and bottom. Personally, I plan on replacing the 'mazda' piece with the '[I]RX-8[I]' to cover the holes there and just leave the right side blank. It doesn't match the rest of the emblems cuz they just look like block letters. Took about 15 minutes for all to be removed and I used a goo remover to get the excess glue off of the car and emblems. Next I sanded all the shiny off with some 220-grit wet/dry sandpaper and was sure to get every nook and cranny(sp?) so that I won't be doing this again in a few months. I then went ahead and applied some 2-sided weather proof tape to them and went around the edges with a razor to make sure the entire backside was covered to prevent leakage, ensure grip and to just give it a cleaner look overall. The sanding and the taping were tedious and tough on the digits but doing it right, I think, is definitely going to be worth it. I started this at 1 in the p.m. and was able to get a few coats of paint on before I lost sunlight. I used an indoor/outdoor, plastic-bonding spray paint in a flat finish and I believe they look waaay better. Also, all the materials are at your local hardware and shouldn't cost ya more than 20 bucks...mine was 17 and some change.
Last edited by jesterb6ub9; 04-11-2009 at 07:21 AM.
#25
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And done...I decided to keep the 'mazda' on the back because to me, it didn't look balanced with the right side blank but here are the finished results of the two options...
And yes, I know my tabs are due soon...hehe
And yes, I know my tabs are due soon...hehe
Last edited by jesterb6ub9; 04-11-2009 at 07:26 PM.