DIY: Replacing rear wheel stud / Rear Hub Nut Size
11-01-2011, 03:07 PM
#1
DIY: Replacing rear wheel stud / Rear Hub Nut Size
So...After a 12 HOUR brake job...I have learned a few things.
1) Mazda uses intern engineers when designing wheel hubs (i'll explain later)
2) The Rear wheel hub nut is a 35mm
3) Replacing a rear wheel stud CAN be done WITHOUT re-moving and disassembling the rear hub.
4) The 2 phillips head screws that hold the front rotors on are designed to strip and **** us off!!
#1 - Whoever designed the rear hub of the 8 needs to be shot! NEVER in my life have I had to dis-assemble a hub (which would take special tools and quite a few hours of work) to change out a sheared wheel stud.
#3 - I did find a way around this but I would not recommend it to racer/ autocrossers. The rotor shield (at its smalles O.D. which is roughly @ the 10 o'clock position when looking at it) can be trimmed down to the CV Knuckle. Then you will need a grinder to grind down the replacement stud starting from the gnarls back @ a 30% angle. After this, orientate the rear hub to where the old stub was and with a gentle tap...the new one will go right in. Oh...to get the old one out...tap it with a hammer till it un-seats from the hub then get a sawsall w/ a metal cutting blade and cit it off BEHIND the hub. When you install the new stud you will most likely knick the threads. Get a die and chase them useing a screwdriver between the back of the stud and the CV knuckle to hold pressure against the stud gnarls. After that, use a nut and a few washers to seat the new stud. Sounds like a lot but MUCH easier than removing and dis-assembling the hub unit.
If you yourself have never done a brake job on your front end (or ever removed your wheels for that matter) I would suggest you do 2 things...
Remover all your wheels and anti-seize all of your wheel studs. If you do not work on your car and bring it to a shop, request that they do this and aso request that they DO NOT use an air impct on your wheel studs. There is a reason that ALL car manufacturers call out a torque value for torqueing your wheel lugs and ours is 118 ft lbs. MAX. Most shops do not regulate their pressure or torque their guns put out and will most likely put your nuts too tight. This will cause, at best, you to have a really hard time breaking them to change a flat tire (with Mazda's idea of a sick and cruel joke of a lug wrench they give us) but at worst...it will pull the threads of the stud causing the nut to cross thread and sieze when you try to remove it. This WILL result in you having to shear the stud the remove the wheel. Front is not a big deal...if it is rear...revert back up to #3. While you have the front wheels off you will notice 2 phillips head screws in your front rotors (another Mazda joke). If you can easily break them, romove them and anti-sieze them. Then put them back. If you cant "easily" remove them...get ready to drill them out when you are ready to change your rotors.
These are all lessons I learned this past weekend when attempting to do my brake job after the tire shop used to much torque when installing my wheels and I had 3 studs break.
When re-installing your wheels use 90 ft lbs. or torque. The addition of anti-sieze brings down the torque value needed to reach the acceptable torque needed.
Any questions or comments feel free to post or shoot me an e-mail. I wish I would have taken pictures but I was so frustrated...pictures was the last thing on my mind!
Happy Rotoring!
1) Mazda uses intern engineers when designing wheel hubs (i'll explain later)
2) The Rear wheel hub nut is a 35mm
3) Replacing a rear wheel stud CAN be done WITHOUT re-moving and disassembling the rear hub.
4) The 2 phillips head screws that hold the front rotors on are designed to strip and **** us off!!
#1 - Whoever designed the rear hub of the 8 needs to be shot! NEVER in my life have I had to dis-assemble a hub (which would take special tools and quite a few hours of work) to change out a sheared wheel stud.
#3 - I did find a way around this but I would not recommend it to racer/ autocrossers. The rotor shield (at its smalles O.D. which is roughly @ the 10 o'clock position when looking at it) can be trimmed down to the CV Knuckle. Then you will need a grinder to grind down the replacement stud starting from the gnarls back @ a 30% angle. After this, orientate the rear hub to where the old stub was and with a gentle tap...the new one will go right in. Oh...to get the old one out...tap it with a hammer till it un-seats from the hub then get a sawsall w/ a metal cutting blade and cit it off BEHIND the hub. When you install the new stud you will most likely knick the threads. Get a die and chase them useing a screwdriver between the back of the stud and the CV knuckle to hold pressure against the stud gnarls. After that, use a nut and a few washers to seat the new stud. Sounds like a lot but MUCH easier than removing and dis-assembling the hub unit.
If you yourself have never done a brake job on your front end (or ever removed your wheels for that matter) I would suggest you do 2 things...
Remover all your wheels and anti-seize all of your wheel studs. If you do not work on your car and bring it to a shop, request that they do this and aso request that they DO NOT use an air impct on your wheel studs. There is a reason that ALL car manufacturers call out a torque value for torqueing your wheel lugs and ours is 118 ft lbs. MAX. Most shops do not regulate their pressure or torque their guns put out and will most likely put your nuts too tight. This will cause, at best, you to have a really hard time breaking them to change a flat tire (with Mazda's idea of a sick and cruel joke of a lug wrench they give us) but at worst...it will pull the threads of the stud causing the nut to cross thread and sieze when you try to remove it. This WILL result in you having to shear the stud the remove the wheel. Front is not a big deal...if it is rear...revert back up to #3. While you have the front wheels off you will notice 2 phillips head screws in your front rotors (another Mazda joke). If you can easily break them, romove them and anti-sieze them. Then put them back. If you cant "easily" remove them...get ready to drill them out when you are ready to change your rotors.
These are all lessons I learned this past weekend when attempting to do my brake job after the tire shop used to much torque when installing my wheels and I had 3 studs break.
When re-installing your wheels use 90 ft lbs. or torque. The addition of anti-sieze brings down the torque value needed to reach the acceptable torque needed.
Any questions or comments feel free to post or shoot me an e-mail. I wish I would have taken pictures but I was so frustrated...pictures was the last thing on my mind!
Happy Rotoring!
11-01-2011, 03:15 PM
#2
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Ouch, sounds rough. Largely your shops fault on most of that.
I can point out that the screws for the front rotors are not required, and are literally only there to hold the rotors in place while the car moves down the assembly line. Every Mazda I've done the brakes on has been the same way. I purchased a manual impact tool, where I put the phillips head in the screw and then give a good smack on the back of it with a hammer, and the screw pops free really easy. It cost a couple bucks and I've saved at least that in sheer blood content if nothing else.
I also carry around a 14" breaker bar with a 21mm nut on it that does a far better job with the lug nut removal issue than Mazda's included lug wrench.
Both just tips to at least save you some bit of that headache in the future
My sympathies on the lugs though
I can point out that the screws for the front rotors are not required, and are literally only there to hold the rotors in place while the car moves down the assembly line. Every Mazda I've done the brakes on has been the same way. I purchased a manual impact tool, where I put the phillips head in the screw and then give a good smack on the back of it with a hammer, and the screw pops free really easy. It cost a couple bucks and I've saved at least that in sheer blood content if nothing else.
I also carry around a 14" breaker bar with a 21mm nut on it that does a far better job with the lug nut removal issue than Mazda's included lug wrench.
Both just tips to at least save you some bit of that headache in the future
My sympathies on the lugs though
03-05-2012, 01:54 PM
#3
I just did this this weekend.. Sucks so hard... but got it done.. thanks for the wright up. +1 on finding the jerk who designed the hub for the rear and judo kick his face.. multiple times..
03-05-2012, 05:03 PM
#4
When was the last time u did a rear hub job? No offense but i have seen worst than what our 8 has.
Official torque spec for the wheel nit is 108 lbs.
Those front screw are not needed, they are only used on assembly line so the rotors wont fall off. So whenever u remove the wheels just remove them and throw it away.
I dont understand if its the shop that broke ur studs, shouldnt they are the one whos respondsible for the repair?
Official torque spec for the wheel nit is 108 lbs.
Those front screw are not needed, they are only used on assembly line so the rotors wont fall off. So whenever u remove the wheels just remove them and throw it away.
I dont understand if its the shop that broke ur studs, shouldnt they are the one whos respondsible for the repair?
Last edited by nycgps; 03-05-2012 at 05:06 PM.
04-10-2013, 10:35 AM
#5
New Member
**** man I don't have time to do that **** or have the right tools right now im just ganna have the shop do it for me, how much do you think It would cost to hve one stud replaced
04-11-2013, 11:53 PM
#6
3) Replacing a rear wheel stud CAN be done WITHOUT re-moving and disassembling the rear hub.
Yes, quiet easily with the proper tools.
4) The 2 phillips head screws that hold the front rotors on are designed to strip and **** us off!!
Nope, use a impact driver and they will loosen very easily, if they do not apply heat and again use the impact driver.
#1 - Whoever designed the rear hub of the 8 needs to be shot! NEVER in my life have I had to dis-assemble a hub (which would take special tools and quite a few hours of work) to change out a sheared wheel stud.
No special tools required, just the right tools lol
#3 - I did find a way around this but I would not recommend it to racer/ autocrossers. The rotor shield (at its smalles O.D. which is roughly @ the 10 o'clock position when looking at it) can be trimmed down to the CV Knuckle. Then you will need a grinder to grind down the replacement stud starting from the gnarls back @ a 30% angle. After this, orientate the rear hub to where the old stub was and with a gentle tap...the new one will go right in. Oh...to get the old one out...tap it with a hammer till it un-seats from the hub then get a sawsall w/ a metal cutting blade and cit it off BEHIND the hub. When you install the new stud you will most likely knick the threads. Get a die and chase them useing a screwdriver between the back of the stud and the CV knuckle to hold pressure against the stud gnarls. After that, use a nut and a few washers to seat the new stud. Sounds like a lot but MUCH easier than removing and dis-assembling the hub unit.
Remove wheel, Remove caliper, remove caliper bracket, remove rotor, THEN remove the old stud (there is room to get it out, without cutting) and place the new one in. You then use a lugnut and oversized nut or very thick washer and simply thread the lugnut until its seated on the back of the hub, it will pull the knurl into the hub without issue.
Remover all your wheels and anti-seize all of your wheel studs. If you do not work on your car and bring it to a shop, request that they do this and aso request that they DO NOT use an air impct on your wheel studs. There is a reason that ALL car manufacturers call out a torque value for torqueing your wheel lugs and ours is 118 ft lbs. MAX. Most shops do not regulate their pressure or torque their guns put out and will most likely put your nuts too tight.
I use anti seize where the rotor (inner face & centering) meets the hub & slight bit on lug nuts.
Every shop uses impacts... the techs are payed flat rate, they purchased there $400 impact to remove and put wheels on to save time. So they can actually make money you will never convince a tech otherwise lol, however doing so they should ALWAYS use torque sticks. Many shops actually make techs use torque sticks then lower the car and torque by hand.
You are wrong on wheel torque.... Maybe why you busted studs? Mazda wheels are all torqued at 78-85FT/LBS except B-Series & Tribute which are 96-104FT-LBS.
#3. While you have the front wheels off you will notice 2 phillips head screws in your front rotors (another Mazda joke). If you can easily break them, romove them and anti-sieze them. Then put them back. If you cant "easily" remove them...get ready to drill them out when you are ready to change your rotors.
These nuts serve NO purpose for your brakes, they are simply meant to hold the rotor in place while at the factory you do not have to put them back if you so choose. If you have ever done brakes before you would know every japanese manufacture uses these or a very similar style setup. Ford also uses these, and GM/Dodge use a locker on 2 wheel studs.
Thee proper way to remove these is use a Impact Driver (link below) if they do not move, apply heat and retry. This tool will not round them out if used properly.
POS but would be good 1 time use lol http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html
These are all lessons I learned this past weekend when attempting to do my brake job after the tire shop used to much torque when installing my wheels and I had 3 studs break.
If a torque stick with the proper value was not used, they should replace them. Sometimes **** happens, but unless your car is rusted out it would be near impossible to acheive 3 broken studs if torquing properly.
When re-installing your wheels use 90 ft lbs. or torque. The addition of anti-sieze brings down the torque value needed to reach the acceptable torque needed.
This will overtorque the wheels, as 90ft/lbs is already above factory spec.
Yes, quiet easily with the proper tools.
4) The 2 phillips head screws that hold the front rotors on are designed to strip and **** us off!!
Nope, use a impact driver and they will loosen very easily, if they do not apply heat and again use the impact driver.
#1 - Whoever designed the rear hub of the 8 needs to be shot! NEVER in my life have I had to dis-assemble a hub (which would take special tools and quite a few hours of work) to change out a sheared wheel stud.
No special tools required, just the right tools lol
#3 - I did find a way around this but I would not recommend it to racer/ autocrossers. The rotor shield (at its smalles O.D. which is roughly @ the 10 o'clock position when looking at it) can be trimmed down to the CV Knuckle. Then you will need a grinder to grind down the replacement stud starting from the gnarls back @ a 30% angle. After this, orientate the rear hub to where the old stub was and with a gentle tap...the new one will go right in. Oh...to get the old one out...tap it with a hammer till it un-seats from the hub then get a sawsall w/ a metal cutting blade and cit it off BEHIND the hub. When you install the new stud you will most likely knick the threads. Get a die and chase them useing a screwdriver between the back of the stud and the CV knuckle to hold pressure against the stud gnarls. After that, use a nut and a few washers to seat the new stud. Sounds like a lot but MUCH easier than removing and dis-assembling the hub unit.
Remove wheel, Remove caliper, remove caliper bracket, remove rotor, THEN remove the old stud (there is room to get it out, without cutting) and place the new one in. You then use a lugnut and oversized nut or very thick washer and simply thread the lugnut until its seated on the back of the hub, it will pull the knurl into the hub without issue.
Remover all your wheels and anti-seize all of your wheel studs. If you do not work on your car and bring it to a shop, request that they do this and aso request that they DO NOT use an air impct on your wheel studs. There is a reason that ALL car manufacturers call out a torque value for torqueing your wheel lugs and ours is 118 ft lbs. MAX. Most shops do not regulate their pressure or torque their guns put out and will most likely put your nuts too tight.
I use anti seize where the rotor (inner face & centering) meets the hub & slight bit on lug nuts.
Every shop uses impacts... the techs are payed flat rate, they purchased there $400 impact to remove and put wheels on to save time. So they can actually make money you will never convince a tech otherwise lol, however doing so they should ALWAYS use torque sticks. Many shops actually make techs use torque sticks then lower the car and torque by hand.
You are wrong on wheel torque.... Maybe why you busted studs? Mazda wheels are all torqued at 78-85FT/LBS except B-Series & Tribute which are 96-104FT-LBS.
#3. While you have the front wheels off you will notice 2 phillips head screws in your front rotors (another Mazda joke). If you can easily break them, romove them and anti-sieze them. Then put them back. If you cant "easily" remove them...get ready to drill them out when you are ready to change your rotors.
These nuts serve NO purpose for your brakes, they are simply meant to hold the rotor in place while at the factory you do not have to put them back if you so choose. If you have ever done brakes before you would know every japanese manufacture uses these or a very similar style setup. Ford also uses these, and GM/Dodge use a locker on 2 wheel studs.
Thee proper way to remove these is use a Impact Driver (link below) if they do not move, apply heat and retry. This tool will not round them out if used properly.
POS but would be good 1 time use lol http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html
These are all lessons I learned this past weekend when attempting to do my brake job after the tire shop used to much torque when installing my wheels and I had 3 studs break.
If a torque stick with the proper value was not used, they should replace them. Sometimes **** happens, but unless your car is rusted out it would be near impossible to acheive 3 broken studs if torquing properly.
When re-installing your wheels use 90 ft lbs. or torque. The addition of anti-sieze brings down the torque value needed to reach the acceptable torque needed.
This will overtorque the wheels, as 90ft/lbs is already above factory spec.
When was the last time u did a rear hub job? No offense but i have seen worst than what our 8 has.
Official torque spec for the wheel nit is 108 lbs.
Those front screw are not needed, they are only used on assembly line so the rotors wont fall off. So whenever u remove the wheels just remove them and throw it away.
I dont understand if its the shop that broke ur studs, shouldnt they are the one whos respondsible for the repair?
Official torque spec for the wheel nit is 108 lbs.
Those front screw are not needed, they are only used on assembly line so the rotors wont fall off. So whenever u remove the wheels just remove them and throw it away.
I dont understand if its the shop that broke ur studs, shouldnt they are the one whos respondsible for the repair?
Customers are responsible for broken studs, unless the technician was using his tools improperly which is most likely the case but highly doubt a tire shop would say anything.
Last edited by Mr.Mango; 04-12-2013 at 12:01 AM.
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