Cumulative Synthetic Oil Discussion
#1577
I read some interesting things over at BITOG while researching oils for my 8. I was reading an oil analysis done on a BMW 335i with 9,000 miles on the BMW brand 5w30 synthetic oil. (Group III) Those twin turbocharged motors commonly push oil temperatures above 250F. This particular car pushed temps upwards of 275F! However, the oil analysis done shows that the oil still had plenty of life and the engine was wearing nicely. I hear a lot of concern for the Renesis when oil temps go above 220F. It seems to me that a modern, good quality oil will have no problem dealing with heat like that. I'm curious why there is so much concern over 1. Oil temps and 2. Using oil as thick as 20w50 as some deem 5w30 too "thin" because the renesis gets too "hot". Please comment on this. Thanks!
-Lawrence
-Lawrence
When people say breakdown of oil, they mostly mean viscosity shears to thinner.
We basically run a thicker oil to get a head start on that thinning.
Bearing in engines run coolest with the thinest oil that does'nt allow metal to metal (keeps hydrostatic pressure floating the shaft).
However, after seeing bearing pics, and UOA's of car running 5w20, I can see that the front bearing is getting chrome worn off.
I wouldn't run any weight lower than xw40 in a car that I drive at full throttle.
#1578
I'm going to keep running synthetic but I keep lingering on the thought of my engine failing, and then taking it to the dealership, and then they say "We won't give you a new engine because you used synthetic".
Would I be able to use that whole "Prove that synthetic oil was the cause otherwise you must honor my warranty" thing on them? After reading through this thread I still see no reasonf or me to switch to conventional but maybe I should if my engine decides to crap out on me in five years...
Would I be able to use that whole "Prove that synthetic oil was the cause otherwise you must honor my warranty" thing on them? After reading through this thread I still see no reasonf or me to switch to conventional but maybe I should if my engine decides to crap out on me in five years...
List your oil and filter change as you do it which creates historical facts, and don't get into oil characteristics or if you do just list a 5w20 dino.
#1579
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#1580
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I have started with Motul X-Clean 5W-30 fully sysnthetic...and here in Austria ,dealer also use fully synthetic oil ,also 5W-30,Castrol or Mobil 1.
there is no reason NOT to use synthetic oil.
there is no reason NOT to use synthetic oil.
#1581
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My local mazda dealer I take my car to uses Castrol GTX 5w30. Since it is still under the 100,000 engine warrantee, I figure Mazda will have a hard time refusing the replacement if their dealer is puting something other than 5w20 in it.
#1583
Mine here in South Denver uses Valvoline 5w30 and has said I can use whatever as long as the viscosity isnt too crazy and the warranty will be fine. Obviously having them do the changes wont hurt if I need their backing and they said as much.
#1585
I'd run the Shell Helix 10w40, myself with not any remorse, but be sure to add 6 to 8 ounces of motorcycle 2cycle oil to gas on every fillup of approx. 12 gallons.
#1586
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So yesterday I made the switch from RP 5w-30 to my "summer" oil RP10w/40. Not sure if this is a good thing or a bad thing as I haven't quite grasped the concept of oil pressures and their affect through weight.
5w30
Accelerating - 90-110
Highway Driving - 90psi
Cold Idle - 30psi
Warm Idle 60psi
10w40
Accelerating - 110-130psi
Highway Driving - 100-110
Cold Idle - 30psi
Warm Idle 60-70psi
I know that my numbers look more like the "suggested specs" of the S2 engine with the 10/40, but is this necessarily a good thing?
5w30
Accelerating - 90-110
Highway Driving - 90psi
Cold Idle - 30psi
Warm Idle 60psi
10w40
Accelerating - 110-130psi
Highway Driving - 100-110
Cold Idle - 30psi
Warm Idle 60-70psi
I know that my numbers look more like the "suggested specs" of the S2 engine with the 10/40, but is this necessarily a good thing?
#1587
something is not right cold idle OP should be >> warm idle OP
If you spending $$ on syn oil I would go with Redline over Royal, they have better ester based oil for similar price..
their 5w-30 will give you protection of 10w-40 so you can drive it year round..
what is our oil filter bypass valve psi spec?
what is oil pressure relief valve psi setting?
If you spending $$ on syn oil I would go with Redline over Royal, they have better ester based oil for similar price..
their 5w-30 will give you protection of 10w-40 so you can drive it year round..
what is our oil filter bypass valve psi spec?
what is oil pressure relief valve psi setting?
#1588
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Yikes im a dumbass, i just double checked, here we go:
5w30
Accelerating - 90-110
Highway Driving - 90psi
Cold Idle - 60psi
Warm Idle 30psi
10w40
Accelerating - 110-130psi
Highway Driving - 100-110
Cold Idle - 60-70psi
Warm Idle - 30psi
OEM filter and bypass (whic his greater than the S1)
5w30
Accelerating - 90-110
Highway Driving - 90psi
Cold Idle - 60psi
Warm Idle 30psi
10w40
Accelerating - 110-130psi
Highway Driving - 100-110
Cold Idle - 60-70psi
Warm Idle - 30psi
OEM filter and bypass (whic his greater than the S1)
#1589
ok so I looked up purolator oil filter Relief Valve P.S.I. and it is rated at 14-18psi which is surprisingly low, my other car is Audi S4 oil filter is rated at Relief Valve P.S.I. 30-40psi.
Last edited by Nadrealista; 05-31-2011 at 10:59 AM.
#1592
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Before anyone flames you, can you clarify?
You used "quickly" and "how less", which are generally comparative terms, but then only gave 1 oil weight. Are you comparing it to 5w-20? 20w-50?
And being that this is the Syn thread, are you referring to syn or non syn? and are you comparing it to the other?
You used "quickly" and "how less", which are generally comparative terms, but then only gave 1 oil weight. Are you comparing it to 5w-20? 20w-50?
And being that this is the Syn thread, are you referring to syn or non syn? and are you comparing it to the other?
#1593
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Look at ch0o - always so generous with your lack of shooting flames
previously I was using RP5w-30 for 3k miles. Last night switched to 10w-40 as my "summer" oil (albiet living in NE i could just get away with a solid 5/30 year round)
Forget the quickly part as i understand that it is definitely a general term, but as far as the idling goes, I seem to have a much smoother idle. I turn on the car and I get none of the "put put put" ever once in a while. Turns right on, sits at cold idle 1k-ish very smooth, no vibrations.
I Was thinking it was placebo affect but I felt the same exact experience just coming home from work, just wondering if this is what others experience with heavier weight oils or if this is my car pulling a big fake-out-im-tugging-on-your-***** affect.
previously I was using RP5w-30 for 3k miles. Last night switched to 10w-40 as my "summer" oil (albiet living in NE i could just get away with a solid 5/30 year round)
Forget the quickly part as i understand that it is definitely a general term, but as far as the idling goes, I seem to have a much smoother idle. I turn on the car and I get none of the "put put put" ever once in a while. Turns right on, sits at cold idle 1k-ish very smooth, no vibrations.
I Was thinking it was placebo affect but I felt the same exact experience just coming home from work, just wondering if this is what others experience with heavier weight oils or if this is my car pulling a big fake-out-im-tugging-on-your-***** affect.
#1595
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Btw I double checked, and my idle numbers are def like the first ones I quoted:
5w30
Accelerating - 90-110
Highway Driving - 90psi
Cold Idle - 30psi
Warm Idle 60psi
10w40
Accelerating - 110-130psi
Highway Driving - 100-110
Cold Idle - 30psi
Warm Idle 60-70psi
The low cold idle has always been the case compared to my warm idle.
Mind you this, from todays experience cold idle = 86F ambient, warm idle = 160F oil temp
Well then soak me in mustard and call me a french fry...
5w30
Accelerating - 90-110
Highway Driving - 90psi
Cold Idle - 30psi
Warm Idle 60psi
10w40
Accelerating - 110-130psi
Highway Driving - 100-110
Cold Idle - 30psi
Warm Idle 60-70psi
The low cold idle has always been the case compared to my warm idle.
Mind you this, from todays experience cold idle = 86F ambient, warm idle = 160F oil temp
Well then soak me in mustard and call me a french fry...
#1596
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It's not your imagination. The higher oil pressure has been seen to smooth out the revs at any point in the range, and the thicker weights will increase pressure naturally.
If this is your intended gain though, the oil pressure pellet mod is a better method than just increasing the oil weight, as it is directly targeted your desired area, and won't degrade over the life of the oil.
Not saying higher oil weight is bad.
If this is your intended gain though, the oil pressure pellet mod is a better method than just increasing the oil weight, as it is directly targeted your desired area, and won't degrade over the life of the oil.
Not saying higher oil weight is bad.
#1597
Btw I double checked, and my idle numbers are def like the first ones I quoted:
5w30
Accelerating - 90-110
Highway Driving - 90psi
Cold Idle - 30psi
Warm Idle 60psi
10w40
Accelerating - 110-130psi
Highway Driving - 100-110
Cold Idle - 30psi
Warm Idle 60-70psi
The low cold idle has always been the case compared to my warm idle.
Mind you this, from todays experience cold idle = 86F ambient, warm idle = 160F oil temp
Well then soak me in mustard and call me a french fry...
5w30
Accelerating - 90-110
Highway Driving - 90psi
Cold Idle - 30psi
Warm Idle 60psi
10w40
Accelerating - 110-130psi
Highway Driving - 100-110
Cold Idle - 30psi
Warm Idle 60-70psi
The low cold idle has always been the case compared to my warm idle.
Mind you this, from todays experience cold idle = 86F ambient, warm idle = 160F oil temp
Well then soak me in mustard and call me a french fry...
#1598
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It's not your imagination. The higher oil pressure has been seen to smooth out the revs at any point in the range, and the thicker weights will increase pressure naturally.
If this is your intended gain though, the oil pressure pellet mod is a better method than just increasing the oil weight, as it is directly targeted your desired area, and won't degrade over the life of the oil.
Not saying higher oil weight is bad.
If this is your intended gain though, the oil pressure pellet mod is a better method than just increasing the oil weight, as it is directly targeted your desired area, and won't degrade over the life of the oil.
Not saying higher oil weight is bad.
Trust me I know, everywhere I read says I should be getting higher "cold" oil pressures. Does it matter that I am not grabbing my pressure from the filter (cant on an S2) an am getting it from the factory port on the side of the engine?
#1599
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I do exactly the same thing with oil from season-to-season, and I have noticed almost no difference in running quality. Always starts and idles the same, never rough. I might have noticed that the cold accelerated idle seems a little higher, but that could also be related to higher seasonal ambient air temperature too.
Last edited by PeteInLongBeach; 06-01-2011 at 12:26 AM.