Cumulative Synthetic Oil Discussion
06-27-2010, 12:46 PM
#1276
Registered
I love synthetic oil and will always use it. That doesn't mean I don't like some conventionals too though. For synthetics there are really only 3 in the world that I like. The rest may as well not exist and I won't touch them. They are Redline, Amsoil, and Royal Purple. Actually you could add a 4th one to that list in Idemistsu for the rotary but I still stand by my opinion that you should only use it in a dedicated track or race rotary and not a street driven one. For conventionals, although I have used most of the big names out there, I really prefer two of them. I like Havoline and Castrol.
As far as oil weight goes, run thicker than what the car came with. Rotaries are harder on oil than other engines so the same rules don't quite apply. You are in a hot climate. Run at least a 10W30 although a 10W40 would be nice too and probably preferable. You just don't have the climate that needs a thinner oil. I prefer a good synthetic but any of the oils that I listed above I would use.
As far as oil weight goes, run thicker than what the car came with. Rotaries are harder on oil than other engines so the same rules don't quite apply. You are in a hot climate. Run at least a 10W30 although a 10W40 would be nice too and probably preferable. You just don't have the climate that needs a thinner oil. I prefer a good synthetic but any of the oils that I listed above I would use.
06-27-2010, 01:43 PM
#1277
Rotarygod,
I know you've got a lot of mechanical knowledge, but I don't think that Mazda rotaries are very hard on oil compared to hot running German piston cars that are known valve coking monsters.
I've even thought about rerunning my RX8 4k or 5k used Mobil 0w40 in my Dodge Stratus for another 5k miles.
To the OP: the previous owners was on the right track with a 10w40. I run Mobil 0w40 because it seems to be the latest modern formulation for gasoline engines, especially those German sludge monsters I just slandered.
My reasoning for changing at 5k miles is all the gasoline that evaporates in the oil. I don't see the point of all the fussing on oil changes that people do. The additives in oils can actually put more wear on the metal until they break in after a few thousand miles. See Bobistheoilguy.
I know you've got a lot of mechanical knowledge, but I don't think that Mazda rotaries are very hard on oil compared to hot running German piston cars that are known valve coking monsters.
I've even thought about rerunning my RX8 4k or 5k used Mobil 0w40 in my Dodge Stratus for another 5k miles.
To the OP: the previous owners was on the right track with a 10w40. I run Mobil 0w40 because it seems to be the latest modern formulation for gasoline engines, especially those German sludge monsters I just slandered.
My reasoning for changing at 5k miles is all the gasoline that evaporates in the oil. I don't see the point of all the fussing on oil changes that people do. The additives in oils can actually put more wear on the metal until they break in after a few thousand miles. See Bobistheoilguy.
06-27-2010, 03:00 PM
#1278
Akaqc,
Yeah, buy any 0w,5w, or10w40 of a major oil company and you'll be fine. I don't see anything too bad at Wally World or most parts store.
10w40 is an older type design, and 5w40 is a newer formulation for diesels, but very good in gas or diesel. I just think I like 0w40.
Squidward said he ran like the last 80k miles with never changing oil or filter. I believe him except I'd change that itty bitty filter every 10k miles at least.
Yeah, buy any 0w,5w, or10w40 of a major oil company and you'll be fine. I don't see anything too bad at Wally World or most parts store.
10w40 is an older type design, and 5w40 is a newer formulation for diesels, but very good in gas or diesel. I just think I like 0w40.
Squidward said he ran like the last 80k miles with never changing oil or filter. I believe him except I'd change that itty bitty filter every 10k miles at least.
06-27-2010, 04:19 PM
#1280
Rotarygod,
I know you've got a lot of mechanical knowledge, but I don't think that Mazda rotaries are very hard on oil compared to hot running German piston cars that are known valve coking monsters.
I've even thought about rerunning my RX8 4k or 5k used Mobil 0w40 in my Dodge Stratus for another 5k miles.
To the OP: the previous owners was on the right track with a 10w40. I run Mobil 0w40 because it seems to be the latest modern formulation for gasoline engines, especially those German sludge monsters I just slandered.
My reasoning for changing at 5k miles is all the gasoline that evaporates in the oil. I don't see the point of all the fussing on oil changes that people do. The additives in oils can actually put more wear on the metal until they break in after a few thousand miles. See Bobistheoilguy.
I know you've got a lot of mechanical knowledge, but I don't think that Mazda rotaries are very hard on oil compared to hot running German piston cars that are known valve coking monsters.
I've even thought about rerunning my RX8 4k or 5k used Mobil 0w40 in my Dodge Stratus for another 5k miles.
To the OP: the previous owners was on the right track with a 10w40. I run Mobil 0w40 because it seems to be the latest modern formulation for gasoline engines, especially those German sludge monsters I just slandered.
My reasoning for changing at 5k miles is all the gasoline that evaporates in the oil. I don't see the point of all the fussing on oil changes that people do. The additives in oils can actually put more wear on the metal until they break in after a few thousand miles. See Bobistheoilguy.
that simply means you still too new to rotary.
You have a lot to learn buddy.
06-27-2010, 10:49 PM
#1283
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Thanks to all who chimed in.
The ZHP has 56,000 miles on the odo today. It handles well too, in it's own way.
They are complete opposites in the way they require to be driven, both 6 speeds and same horse power ratings too @ 240hp, but the ZHP has a lot more torque...yet I like the rx-8 gears better. the rx8 also has a wider rpm range, weight distribution...etc...all things to love on both cars.
Driving either is like day and night, but the result is the same...I got the grin on the face every time
. Best combo for a formal + play car IMO.
My worry was more regarding the best oil for the car in all aspect (health of engine internals, performance etc) for the weather conditions I live in...it's hot in Florida so I just wanted to make sure I carried on with the right oil.
I used to have time to mess with cars when I owned my 1993 prelude Si in college, but those days are far gone...my cars are bone stock and I enjoy them as they are...as long as they run right using the best stuff that will provide just that.
I will consider 0w40. If anyone else wants to chime in with their experience with 0w40 oil, feel free.
No disrespect to you, you sound very knowledgeable; but for the tens of pages I've been reading on this thread, you spend a lot of time telling people off about what they know or don't know about rotaries and so forth.
How about sticking to the actual topic answering questions regarding the oil that a lot of people are seeking?
After 53 pages, I'm surprised someone who knows so much about rotaries and how oil works hasn't taken charge and made a post covering the various types of rx-8 applications (street, daily, track, race, autox..etc) and touched on the best suggested types and brands of oil to use for those applcations and why...whether synthetic or non synthetic; and just leave it at.
So how about it? Do you have any recommendations for me? I'm asking you directly:
2005 Mazda Rx8 GT
37,000 Miles
Currently Running Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 10w40, and has been since brand new.
State: Florida - hot as hell 9 or 10 month out of the year
Car is clean; No past history of engine failures, leaks, maintenance, recalls etc...
Application: daily street use, no more than 20 to 30 miles a day, with very light spirited driving...rarely hit 7 or 8k rpm during my commutes (45mph speed limits on avg)
What can you recommend for me? Stick with it? change to non synthetic like mazda recommend? if yes, to what? Why or why not?
Thanks.
Sounds like you are suggesting I should simply stick with 10w40 Synthetic. Anything wrong with Mobil 1, or you just prefer Redline, Amsoil or Royal purples?
Reason I ask is because if I stick with synthetic, I can't go to the dealer to get the oil changed. I will most likely find an independent shop who either carries those brands, or pick it up locally. I'm not a part store junkie, but once things are decided, I will be on the hunt and buy a few cases worth.
Thanks!
They are complete opposites in the way they require to be driven, both 6 speeds and same horse power ratings too @ 240hp, but the ZHP has a lot more torque...yet I like the rx-8 gears better. the rx8 also has a wider rpm range, weight distribution...etc...all things to love on both cars.
Driving either is like day and night, but the result is the same...I got the grin on the face every time
. Best combo for a formal + play car IMO.I used to have time to mess with cars when I owned my 1993 prelude Si in college, but those days are far gone...my cars are bone stock and I enjoy them as they are...as long as they run right using the best stuff that will provide just that.
I will consider 0w40. If anyone else wants to chime in with their experience with 0w40 oil, feel free.
How about sticking to the actual topic answering questions regarding the oil that a lot of people are seeking?
After 53 pages, I'm surprised someone who knows so much about rotaries and how oil works hasn't taken charge and made a post covering the various types of rx-8 applications (street, daily, track, race, autox..etc) and touched on the best suggested types and brands of oil to use for those applcations and why...whether synthetic or non synthetic; and just leave it at.
So how about it? Do you have any recommendations for me? I'm asking you directly:
2005 Mazda Rx8 GT
37,000 Miles
Currently Running Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 10w40, and has been since brand new.
State: Florida - hot as hell 9 or 10 month out of the year
Car is clean; No past history of engine failures, leaks, maintenance, recalls etc...
Application: daily street use, no more than 20 to 30 miles a day, with very light spirited driving...rarely hit 7 or 8k rpm during my commutes (45mph speed limits on avg)
What can you recommend for me? Stick with it? change to non synthetic like mazda recommend? if yes, to what? Why or why not?
Thanks.
As far as oil weight goes, run thicker than what the car came with. Rotaries are harder on oil than other engines so the same rules don't quite apply. You are in a hot climate. Run at least a 10W30 although a 10W40 would be nice too and probably preferable. You just don't have the climate that needs a thinner oil. I prefer a good synthetic but any of the oils that I listed above I would use.
Reason I ask is because if I stick with synthetic, I can't go to the dealer to get the oil changed. I will most likely find an independent shop who either carries those brands, or pick it up locally. I'm not a part store junkie, but once things are decided, I will be on the hunt and buy a few cases worth.
Thanks!
Last edited by akagc; 06-27-2010 at 11:04 PM.
06-27-2010, 10:49 PM
#1284
At anyrate... Royal Purple is good stuff.... thats what I use...
Edit: The oil you use now is fine... since your in FL you can change oil weights if you want put keep atleast a good -30 in there... Switching to RP or Redline really wouldnt help any, so keep the oil your using now and maybe go a little less on the cold start, to be honest you can stick with the oil you have now and you will be fine.
The S1 engine will fail eventually by design and the lack of a middle oil injector which lubricates the middle of the apex seal... OMP (Oil metering pump) values have been increased with the newest flash from Mazda (MSP-16) but it cant make up for the design failure. Keep the oil your using now, and you will be fine...
Edit: The oil you use now is fine... since your in FL you can change oil weights if you want put keep atleast a good -30 in there... Switching to RP or Redline really wouldnt help any, so keep the oil your using now and maybe go a little less on the cold start, to be honest you can stick with the oil you have now and you will be fine.
The S1 engine will fail eventually by design and the lack of a middle oil injector which lubricates the middle of the apex seal... OMP (Oil metering pump) values have been increased with the newest flash from Mazda (MSP-16) but it cant make up for the design failure. Keep the oil your using now, and you will be fine...
Last edited by WTBRotary!; 06-27-2010 at 10:54 PM.
06-27-2010, 11:31 PM
#1285
akaqc,
I'll be happy to impart my knowledge as a person that grew up in the fuel and oil business, but the kids on here need to park their ego.
The base oils and additives are bought and sold around so much that all the manufacturers have mostly good stuff. I know people getting 500k or more out of chevy 350's using Rotella 15w40, Exxon Extra 15w40, or Chevron delo 400 15w40.
I know I'm just a dumbass oil salesman, but I don't think anyone here is gonna beat that kind of engine life no matter what they do. I busted 2 rotary engines in my RX3, and used Exxon Uniflo 10w40, changing mostly at 4k miles.
I got 75k out of the first on because the water jacket seals were leaking into the chambers. The second one I overheated by running at 7k rpm on a hot day until it blew the seals; you know like the vids you see where someone blows it by holding revs in neutral.
Run 5w20, 5w30, 0w20, 0w30, 0w40, 5w40, 10w40, 15w40, 0w50, 5w50, 10w50, 15w50, 20w50, 10w60 or even peanut oil, but you're gonna blow side or apex seals before the bearings or eccentric shaft cause an engine teardown.
The old formulation of 10w40 was causing hard carbon because of VI improvers which we definitely don't need. That's one reason manufacturers pushed 10w30 over 10w40 in the early 80's. That's also why I like the 0w40 formulations of Mobil, Redline, etc.
OK, for all you other afraidy cats out there, that just know your teeny weeny fragile wankel is gonna explode, run 15w50, and you'll always know you went thick enough.
I'll be happy to impart my knowledge as a person that grew up in the fuel and oil business, but the kids on here need to park their ego.
The base oils and additives are bought and sold around so much that all the manufacturers have mostly good stuff. I know people getting 500k or more out of chevy 350's using Rotella 15w40, Exxon Extra 15w40, or Chevron delo 400 15w40.
I know I'm just a dumbass oil salesman, but I don't think anyone here is gonna beat that kind of engine life no matter what they do. I busted 2 rotary engines in my RX3, and used Exxon Uniflo 10w40, changing mostly at 4k miles.
I got 75k out of the first on because the water jacket seals were leaking into the chambers. The second one I overheated by running at 7k rpm on a hot day until it blew the seals; you know like the vids you see where someone blows it by holding revs in neutral.
Run 5w20, 5w30, 0w20, 0w30, 0w40, 5w40, 10w40, 15w40, 0w50, 5w50, 10w50, 15w50, 20w50, 10w60 or even peanut oil, but you're gonna blow side or apex seals before the bearings or eccentric shaft cause an engine teardown.
The old formulation of 10w40 was causing hard carbon because of VI improvers which we definitely don't need. That's one reason manufacturers pushed 10w30 over 10w40 in the early 80's. That's also why I like the 0w40 formulations of Mobil, Redline, etc.
OK, for all you other afraidy cats out there, that just know your teeny weeny fragile wankel is gonna explode, run 15w50, and you'll always know you went thick enough.
06-27-2010, 11:38 PM
#1286
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Proving once again that "It doesn't even F**kin matter".
06-28-2010, 09:22 AM
#1288
Registered
BITOG is like any other forum. It's just oil based. There is good and bad info over there but keep in mind it is pretty biased. They have forum sponsors and a couple of them are big players when it comes to oils and their reviews show it. If you find a thread that insults one of their big sponsor oils, copy it. It won't be there long. They actually have one or two around that they didn't delete just to keep appearances up but for the most part that forum should be for reference only and taken with a grain of salt.
If fuel is so good at evaporating from the oil, why do many use oil analyses show high concentrations of fuel dilution in rotaries? If it evaporated, it wouldn't be there. Keep in mind UOA's are something that are highly promoted on BITOG.
06-28-2010, 09:25 AM
#1289
Registered
I have seen several rotaries that died due to oil starvation/breakdown which led to spun rotor bearings. Sadly it takes the rest of the engine out too but a blown seal is not the only mode of failure for a rotary. Side seals almost never break although it isn't unheard of. Detonation or preignition related failures typically show up as broken apex seals or cracked housings around the dowel lands. Oil related failures show up as spun and overly worn bearings and typically not broken seals.
06-28-2010, 02:03 PM
#1290
Rotarygod,
MMO was used by some to dilute the oil to start up in sub zero weather before synthetics.
MMO is about 25% varsol (mineral spirits with 105deg f flashpoint).
They knew that the varsol part of MMO would burn off after running up to operating temp.
Gasoline has flash point of approx. -30deg f so don't you think all that RX8 extra gas keeps adding to the oil and boiling off.
In other words, there's always new fuel going into the oil, but earlier gas has already flashed off.
So there is left over gasoline deposits in that evaporating situation, but I still say engines with cams and valves have a situation where the oil overheats on top of the engine leading to coke deposits and oil gallery plugging.
The rotary gets that oil out of the bearings faster to the oil pan.
Of course the rotary really puts the heat out, but that can blamed on overheating the engine, not the oil quiting flow because of deposit chunks.
Yeah, we all know to preserve your front bearing for reuse when you rebuild seals, you should run at least 40 weight, but has anyone ever rebuild engine and said, "This damn oil really f***ed my rotary! Ima gonna make a claim to the oil company?
MMO was used by some to dilute the oil to start up in sub zero weather before synthetics.
MMO is about 25% varsol (mineral spirits with 105deg f flashpoint).
They knew that the varsol part of MMO would burn off after running up to operating temp.
Gasoline has flash point of approx. -30deg f so don't you think all that RX8 extra gas keeps adding to the oil and boiling off.
In other words, there's always new fuel going into the oil, but earlier gas has already flashed off.
So there is left over gasoline deposits in that evaporating situation, but I still say engines with cams and valves have a situation where the oil overheats on top of the engine leading to coke deposits and oil gallery plugging.
The rotary gets that oil out of the bearings faster to the oil pan.
Of course the rotary really puts the heat out, but that can blamed on overheating the engine, not the oil quiting flow because of deposit chunks.
Yeah, we all know to preserve your front bearing for reuse when you rebuild seals, you should run at least 40 weight, but has anyone ever rebuild engine and said, "This damn oil really f***ed my rotary! Ima gonna make a claim to the oil company?
Last edited by REDRX3RX8; 06-28-2010 at 02:17 PM. Reason: word
06-28-2010, 03:47 PM
#1292
Registered
I know all about MMO in rotaries and I would never touch the stuff. It never has been and never will be a good idea.
You act like there is so much fuel going into the oil system that the only way it isn't full of it is because it burns off. That just isn't so. I'm not saying some doesn't evaporate. Some does. Then again some of your oil does too! Flash point has nothing to do with the fact that gasoline still has to get past 2 oil seals. A very small amount does which is why some registers on a UOA but what you see is just about all there was.
Cams and valves aren't nearly as hard on oil as a rotary is. Not even close. When I replaced the engine on my Civic at 200,000 miles, there was no grungy coke deposits in it anywhere. There was a layer of varnish but most of it came off with just a spray of Super Clean and the rest with a mild scrubbing with a toothbrush. It was pretty impressive. That engine lived on Royal Purple btw. That engine has valves and cams. The engine died due to dirt and sand getting into the intake system through a hard to see tear in the intake hose that I missed so oil didn't have anything to do with that engine going. Had it not been for that tear, that engine would have gone far longer. The most carbon buildup was right where it should be expected to be and that is in the intake manifold runners and the back of the intake valves as gasoline is responsible for more carbon buildup than any other fluid. That's what gums up rotors too. It isn't even the oil metering. Heat may breakdown the ability of the oil to do it's job but that doesn't mean that it is turning it to mush. Even the inside of a rotor on a poorly maintained rotary doesn't have coke deposits. You do get it in turbos that remain hot but the oil temps at that point have climbed so high that the still oil in the hot non running turbo literally boils off and leaves the additive package behind. That is extremely hot. There are potentially places in piston engines where this could happen but only in a poorly designed one. A modern engine shouldn't have this problem.
Rotaries are harder on oil than any other street car engines out there.
You act like there is so much fuel going into the oil system that the only way it isn't full of it is because it burns off. That just isn't so. I'm not saying some doesn't evaporate. Some does. Then again some of your oil does too! Flash point has nothing to do with the fact that gasoline still has to get past 2 oil seals. A very small amount does which is why some registers on a UOA but what you see is just about all there was.
Cams and valves aren't nearly as hard on oil as a rotary is. Not even close. When I replaced the engine on my Civic at 200,000 miles, there was no grungy coke deposits in it anywhere. There was a layer of varnish but most of it came off with just a spray of Super Clean and the rest with a mild scrubbing with a toothbrush. It was pretty impressive. That engine lived on Royal Purple btw. That engine has valves and cams. The engine died due to dirt and sand getting into the intake system through a hard to see tear in the intake hose that I missed so oil didn't have anything to do with that engine going. Had it not been for that tear, that engine would have gone far longer. The most carbon buildup was right where it should be expected to be and that is in the intake manifold runners and the back of the intake valves as gasoline is responsible for more carbon buildup than any other fluid. That's what gums up rotors too. It isn't even the oil metering. Heat may breakdown the ability of the oil to do it's job but that doesn't mean that it is turning it to mush. Even the inside of a rotor on a poorly maintained rotary doesn't have coke deposits. You do get it in turbos that remain hot but the oil temps at that point have climbed so high that the still oil in the hot non running turbo literally boils off and leaves the additive package behind. That is extremely hot. There are potentially places in piston engines where this could happen but only in a poorly designed one. A modern engine shouldn't have this problem.
Rotaries are harder on oil than any other street car engines out there.
06-28-2010, 08:46 PM
#1293
Rotarygod,
In your own words, "even the inside of a rotor of a poorly maintained rotary doesn't have coke deposits" which is exactly my point.
Ok, talking about oil is kinda like mentioning someones mama, nobody else can have an opinion. We all know that, but noobs asking questions aren't up to speed enough to even haggle the fine points, so if they gotta ask, USE ANY 0w40,5w40,10w40, or15w40 anywhere in the world, and your rotary will be fine as will almost any other engine.
Imho that the #1 cause of rotary failure is the ignition failing which loads the apex seals with deposits; just like you said, "gasoline is responsible for more carbon buildup than any other fluid". I definitely agree!
In a nutshell, never run your car if it misses. Upgrade the coils or keep buying new ones or your chambers will fill with crud and your cat will burn up.
In your own words, "even the inside of a rotor of a poorly maintained rotary doesn't have coke deposits" which is exactly my point.
Ok, talking about oil is kinda like mentioning someones mama, nobody else can have an opinion. We all know that, but noobs asking questions aren't up to speed enough to even haggle the fine points, so if they gotta ask, USE ANY 0w40,5w40,10w40, or15w40 anywhere in the world, and your rotary will be fine as will almost any other engine.
Imho that the #1 cause of rotary failure is the ignition failing which loads the apex seals with deposits; just like you said, "gasoline is responsible for more carbon buildup than any other fluid". I definitely agree!
In a nutshell, never run your car if it misses. Upgrade the coils or keep buying new ones or your chambers will fill with crud and your cat will burn up.
06-29-2010, 11:30 AM
#1294
Registered
Q: Why do you use the word "Racing" on the label of these oils?
A: Because the oil is based on the “Racing Oil” that Idemitsu developed with Mazda for the 787B race car that won LeMans in 1991! Also, as a specialty “Racing Oil” product, this oil does not compete with our OEM Genuine Oil business.
Q: Are these oils only for use in rotary engines run on a race track?
A: No, these oils meet or exceed API Services SM and are therefore suitable for street cars.
Q: Are these oils specifically designed for turbo and other FI engines or for all rotary engines including NA engines?
A: As a premium formulation these oils are suitable for Turbocharged and High Performance Rotary Engines. However, they work equally well in normally aspirated or stock engines.
Q: Are these oils as good a choice as any conventional oil for use in daily driven NA rotary cars on the street?
A: The performance of these oils far exceeds conventional oils. One could write a dissertation on the advantages of synthetics Vs. mineral oils and that type of information is readily available.
Q: Is their formulation, additive package, and such aimed principally at the needs of oil to perform at racing temperatures and loads over formulations needed by street cars (detergents, etc.)?
A: Although the applications are quite different and the conditions the oil will see may vary greatly even among like applications, the formulation provides protection for both types of applications.
Q: Will anything in these oils hurt or degrade the catalytic converter on a street car more than a typical conventional oil?
A: If the conventional oil is rated at API SM, then there should be no appreciable difference.
Q: Why do these oils not display the SAE/API standards seal(s) found on most oil's labels?
A: The API starburst is only displayed on oils meeting the energy conserving standard.
Q: What is the lowest ambient temperature that the Idemitsu 10W-30 oil will provide excellent startup wear protection?
A: Because the oil is based on the “Racing Oil” that Idemitsu developed with Mazda for the 787B race car that won LeMans in 1991! Also, as a specialty “Racing Oil” product, this oil does not compete with our OEM Genuine Oil business.
Q: Are these oils only for use in rotary engines run on a race track?
A: No, these oils meet or exceed API Services SM and are therefore suitable for street cars.
Q: Are these oils specifically designed for turbo and other FI engines or for all rotary engines including NA engines?
A: As a premium formulation these oils are suitable for Turbocharged and High Performance Rotary Engines. However, they work equally well in normally aspirated or stock engines.
Q: Are these oils as good a choice as any conventional oil for use in daily driven NA rotary cars on the street?
A: The performance of these oils far exceeds conventional oils. One could write a dissertation on the advantages of synthetics Vs. mineral oils and that type of information is readily available.
Q: Is their formulation, additive package, and such aimed principally at the needs of oil to perform at racing temperatures and loads over formulations needed by street cars (detergents, etc.)?
A: Although the applications are quite different and the conditions the oil will see may vary greatly even among like applications, the formulation provides protection for both types of applications.
Q: Will anything in these oils hurt or degrade the catalytic converter on a street car more than a typical conventional oil?
A: If the conventional oil is rated at API SM, then there should be no appreciable difference.
Q: Why do these oils not display the SAE/API standards seal(s) found on most oil's labels?
A: The API starburst is only displayed on oils meeting the energy conserving standard.
Q: What is the lowest ambient temperature that the Idemitsu 10W-30 oil will provide excellent startup wear protection?
06-29-2010, 12:44 PM
#1296
Registered
sorry, it is here
A: Most OEM’s recommend 0°F or -18° C as the lowest ambient temperature for use of a 10W-30 engine oil. As always, you should check your owner’s manual and follow the manufacturer’s recommendation.
06-29-2010, 02:14 PM
#1298
Registered
Well , easy for us here in Greece. We have a main distributer of Idemitsu products. I guess it should be much easier for you people in the states since we are talking about Idemitsu-USA
06-29-2010, 05:31 PM
#1300
Super Moderator
Almost ALL good BRAND Oils like Idemitsu Exceed Factory (Car makers) Specs including many so called dino's, and you can pay a premium for a "Brand".