Spirograph

Thanks ASH8. I think what I'll do is add 1/3 can of seafoam to the crankcase and drive 60 miles. Then drain and add 15w40 Dino and drive for a week (500 miles). Then I'll do a seafoam decarb to the upper intake manifold and then drain again and refill again with 15w40 and swap the oil filter with Mobil 1 or K&N. Does that sound like a good plan?

ASH8

Frankly, I am not a fan of adding ANYTHING to the Engine Oil ...Period.

Yes, 2 stroke pre-mix in the gas is OK.

If you want to de-carbon your engine, Search for the Seafoam procedure in the tech section, there is a Mazda TSB on it, and a few members threads.

Adding "cleaners" to the engine oil IMO may just dislodge muck and circulate it around your engine, then there is the "Dirty"OIL filter with a cleaner running through it.
Just think about that one for a second, a cleaner trying to clean a dirty oil filter??
I just don't like engine oil cleaners Full Stop, whatever the scenarios.

If I was you I would just do the Intake Seafoam de-carbon job, and change the oil a few times, then renew your oil filter AFTER the last drain out.
And use a good quality 2 stroke in your gas, 8oz per tank.

Ash

Flashwing

I would not suggest adding seafoam to the crankcase. The side effect of seafoam is it will strip oil from the housings. If you're running this through the OMP and crankcase it's likely it will cause more damage than anything.

Part of the reason Mazda suggests doing the decarb at the dealership is because they crank up the OMP volume to at least 30 (which is roughly 50% of it'a maximum). I created a simple max oil tune on the AP where it's cranked to 60 as to prevent damage to the engine.

Spirograph

Thanks for the input. So how about running a half dose of MMO in the crankcase for a short while. Would that be less of a concern?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

heres a thought--several of Ga rx8 club folks are now using diesel oil --such as Valvoline blue 15W/40. diesel oil has many advantages---do research--see what you think---and yes it is ok with cats. leave feedback---yea or nay
olddragger

Nubo

Here's some synthetic oil, and it doesn't break down until 655 degrees F. When it does break down, the products are vapor so there is no carbon or gummy residue.



So, now how much would you pay?

Well, if you said $1585 per Kg, here you go!

http://www.netmercury.net/krytox143AA.aspx

Spirograph

Interesting ... any of the long time regulars have an opinion on this?

SpIcEz

Its basicaly HD oils (Heavy Duty).

I was using Esso Extra HD synthetic 0w40 for while.
Just changed because it got a 10$ price hike, but the oil itself was great.

I'm actually going to try Shell Rotella T Synthetic, which is an HD oil as well.

ASH8

Yeah, I think it is Dumb, Stupid and Idiotic, WHY..

Diesel Engine oil has a lot more harsher detergents, so if you want to eat out (or shorten life span) your Rotors Oil Seal "O" Rings go ahead...

Why, do they think they are inventing something better than what you are supposed to USE??

If Mazda thought Diesel Engine Oil was appropriate for their Rotary Engines then they may recommend them...but they don't.

Just stick to NORMAL engine oil which you can buy 15W40 or 10W40..it is simple really.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

If you want to use Diesel Oil anything rated SJ/ CI-4 Plus or SM CJ-4 are fine. Seriously, get whatever name brand is on sale it doesnt matter.

Here is the difference:

CI-4/CI-4 Plus TBN~12 Zinc 1400-1600ppm Phorphorus 1400-1500ppm

Examples: NAPA All Fleet plus

CJ-4/SM TBN~10 Zinc 1200-1300ppm Phosphorus 1100-1300ppm

Valvoline Blue, Mobil Delvac, Delo 400, Rotella etc.

The CI-4/CI-4 Plus has more antiwear addatives than the CJ-4/SM. The CJ-4/SM has a lower ash content so it burns cleaner of the two. However, both burn cleaner than regualar "Car" oil.
they will not hurt the rubber seals in your engine--dont use them if you have natural rubber seals--it WILL affect those. The rx8 does not have natural rubber in the engine seals.

If you were to use a gasoline oil in a heavy duty truck you could expect to see high levels of sludge, wear and eventual engine problems; however using the other way around can have advantages. Sludge protection and deposit control on HD lubricants are strong as well as wear protection. On most high performance engine lubricants you will see that they have both diesel (API C) and gasoline (API S) perform
lets continue the discussion.
olddragger

Spirograph

Well, to be fair, Mazda strongly recommends 5W-20 in the US, and it has nothing to do with doing what's right for the car. But I'm not inclined to experiment with something that only a few people are doing - at least premixing has a long enough history and enough users that it seems like a reasonable way to maintain a rotor motor. BTW, which 15W-40 Dino are you using? I picked up some 10W-40 Castrol GTX that I'm swapping in tomorrow, but I'd like to use a thicker dino for the desert summer, I just can't find one local of a brand that I'm comfortable with.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

so that little trip to the back of the shop, was good.. behind the closed doors..

have you asked about the ammo?

and as always. great job od.

oct at ra is who?

beers

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Just use regular what w 40 or 50 is fine for this engine.

I find it pretty funny tho, it is very typical to use 10w40 or 20w50 on older rotary engines. people will laugh at your *** if you tell them you wanna use 5w20/30.

but when it comes to RX-8, people being so **** about it and take Mazda's "5w20" recommendation like holy bible or something.

Meh, I dont really believe in 5w20 in the first place, and after I got my FC and study even MORE about engines before MSP, I think Mazda is playing a prank on us with the 5w20 recommendation.

ASH8

Using Diesel oil for flushing

A question came up some time ago about using diesel-rated oils to flush out petrol engines. The idea was that because of the higher detergent levels in diesel engine oil, it might be a good cleaner / flusher for a non-diesel engine. Well most of the diesel oil specification oils can be used in old petrol engines for cleaning, but you want to use a low specification oil to ensure that you do not over clean your engine and lose compression for example. Generally speaking, an SAE 15W/40 diesel engine oil for about 500 miles might do the trick.

mac11

iTrader: (1)

is this thread still going?

swoope

iTrader: (5)

it is,

but it has taken a turn for the interesting if you have been paying attention.


ASH,

the rules for diesel oil have changed a lot i think.. guessing..

and the info oldragger provides is really, really damn, close to the big, big brain..

send me a note..

i am not a smart guy, but i do pay attention..

beers

mac11

iTrader: (1)

Sorry. Have to disagree. It's the same as everything else on this site.

- .01% information that is useful and relevant
- .09% information that is interesting but irrelevant
- 99.9% hearsay, conjecture, bantering, nonsense, and idiocy


This one is just longer.


Car's use oil.

/thread.


For ***** sake.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

but the source is better now.

btw, i hear some singer died last week.

beers

AJ's Shinka

Started using this because it was a higher weight and had superior burn off protection. Car seems to run a lot smoother but I get an oil light on the freeway a lot now but goes away after hitting the side street. Never used to get it before. Is it the oil? The sensor?

I figurd it would be better since our cars naturally burn off a lot more oil than conventional engines even though I don't have that high mileage. Although I consider 30K miles on an 8 high mileage. lol

Spirograph

I've wondered about High Mileage oil, I know it's good on piston cars, but I didn't buy it when I saw the "Superior Burn-Off Protection". What we want on a rotary IS burn-off, correct?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

no oil can resist combustion.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Swoope baby--its pca at RA! SHould be damn good.
Guys there are long term rotary experienced people who have talked about how good diesel oil can be for the rotary engine. A member of the GA RX 8 club has done extensive research with multiple oil analysis's concerning this. Conventional oils lose viscosity very rapidly. A 30 weight will change to a true shear 20w in 1 day---seriously. Diesel holds its shear viscosity. Has to do with plastics
Phosphorous levels are only very marginally higher than castrol or havoline conventional oils per analysis.
Beside diesel oil is cheaper!
olddragger

AJ's Shinka

So in my logic the burn off protection would better lubricate my seals, no?

swoope

iTrader: (5)

link for pca at ra..

and i know who you talk to..

seems like my little local track fun is on weekend from a third place finish..

likely.

1st. turbo sentra.
2nd. sc sdedea mustang.
3rd. me.. trying to buy a clue..

i am off the mustang by .2 after being on the track twice.

the sentra is silly..

beers

madcows

So, I just did my first oil change. When I bought the car (several months back), the oil that was in it looked clean, and since I had other work to do to it, I wasn't worried about it at the time. Who knows what kind of oil was in there.

Anyways, I decided to change my oil just recently. Was looking around at the auto parts store and ran across some valvoline VR-1 non-synthetic (http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...e-motor-oil/6/). The back of the bottle mentioned high zinc/phosphorous, and that it has ash free additives. Zinc supposedly hurts catalytic converters, which is why newer oil typically has lower zinc content than oils of yore. This wasn't a concern for me because I have a cat-delete midpipe. This also sounded like a good oil to use since I still don't have the sohn adapter. The only thing I wasn't too excited about was that the store only had 20W50, and some various straight weights. It is currently summer here, but the temps don't seem to go much above 80F, so 10W30 would have been my preferred choice.

I also ended up using some fram toughlove 6XXX filter. Probably not as good as the M1 filters, but it was about half the price, and probably good enough.

So, what was my first thought when I started working on it at a friend's shop? "Damn, this is stupid!". Oil filter location SUCKS!! I don't know if one is available for the 8, but I seriously like the thought of a remote filter setup. I also disconnected the oil cooler lines - actually only 3 of them, because one was a little too tight for my liking. I didn't realize until I already had them off that the lines use crush washers, and had to reuse the old ones - I'll just have to keep my eye on them to make sure they're not leaking.

I got about 5 quarts out of it, so it sucks that I went through all that, and there was still 2qts of the old crap. I even lifted the front end up a bit

I will say this; the engine feels smoother now, and seems to rev quicker. I think it even sounds better! Idle is even a bit better, but still fairly rough. At any rate, I am happier.

Next stop is all the other fluid changes (though I did to coolant when I first got it)

Valvoline VR-1 non-synth +1