Cumulative Synthetic Oil Discussion
#1
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Cumulative Synthetic Oil Discussion
Yes, i've read the thread about synthetic oil vs. regular oil... and i do own an rx7 Efini so i know how rotary engine works...
the manual for the 8 mentioned:
"Recommendation oil [Pure-Motor-oil golden SJ]
API SJ/ILSAC GF-2,SAE 10W-30"
am just wondering what does this mean? can the rx8 use synthetic oil now? i know MS/Dino/Mobil1 works for rotary engine but how about other brand?
any input would be great... tanx in advance...
-D-
the manual for the 8 mentioned:
"Recommendation oil [Pure-Motor-oil golden SJ]
API SJ/ILSAC GF-2,SAE 10W-30"
am just wondering what does this mean? can the rx8 use synthetic oil now? i know MS/Dino/Mobil1 works for rotary engine but how about other brand?
any input would be great... tanx in advance...
-D-
Last edited by Cihuuy; 05-06-2003 at 02:49 PM.
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yup yup... funny?? :D
EASTMOON one of our forum member in JAPAN.. hehehe got his rx8 allready... so for expert out there what does it really mean?
EASTMOON one of our forum member in JAPAN.. hehehe got his rx8 allready... so for expert out there what does it really mean?
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Originally posted by Cihuuy
EASTMOON one of our forum member in JAPAN
EASTMOON one of our forum member in JAPAN
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So from what I understand, rotaries eat up oil, its part of their function; not a lot, but more than a piston engine. With understanding that, isn't the purest, cleanest oil what should be used for the Renesis or is that not as important as the grade?
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Originally posted by VWjet
So from what I understand, rotaries eat up oil, its part of their function; not a lot, but more than a piston engine. With understanding that, isn't the purest, cleanest oil what should be used for the Renesis or is that not as important as the grade?
So from what I understand, rotaries eat up oil, its part of their function; not a lot, but more than a piston engine. With understanding that, isn't the purest, cleanest oil what should be used for the Renesis or is that not as important as the grade?
what is really key is the combustability of the oil: if it can really just burn up nice, quick, and clean (like lighter mineral oils do), then it is better suited than an oil which doesn't burn quite so well, and cokes up the seals (like a heavy, burn-resistant (which would be a bad characteristic in any motor) synthetic or something).
that is the talking point: will synthetic burn off as nicely as a mineral oil?? and secondly, is the synthetic (being consumed at a constant rate) worth all that extra money for the protection it offers to this engine?? (although that's a different discussion)
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From my technical understanding: The "conventional" Wankel had the intake/outtake ports on the front, so the oil (lubricating the apex seals) was drawn out by the brute force.... I believe that with the side mounted ports of the Renesis comes the huge decrease in oil consumption because it is not sucked out this way any more. Nevertheless this IS an issue and I would surely follow the manual in this point. And always check for the good sap every other refueling.... :o
#10
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The most important pieces of info on the label of the carton are the API Service rating and the ILSAC specification. Ensure that they are API "SL" and ILSAC "GF-3".
Additionally, I've been advising folks to look for BOTH Honda AND Ford specifications for the new 5W20 oils. These credentials indicate the oil meets or exceeds the manufacturers' specs. The Honda spec is good, the Ford spec is best -- it's currently the most rigorous standard for 5W20 oils.
BTW, the "semi-synthetic" or "synthetic blend" label on the oil is, most likely, simply for marketing. I'm not familiar with the Valvoline brews, but it is most likely a blend of highly-refined mineral oil base stock (group II, II+, and III), as opposed to having any "pure" synthetic oil (group IV) base stock in it. Nowadays, the term "synthetic" is more closely associated with performance characteristics, at least for marketing, than differentiating between man-made and dino oils.
Again, as long as the oil is "SL" and "GF-3" you should be OK.
Additionally, I've been advising folks to look for BOTH Honda AND Ford specifications for the new 5W20 oils. These credentials indicate the oil meets or exceeds the manufacturers' specs. The Honda spec is good, the Ford spec is best -- it's currently the most rigorous standard for 5W20 oils.
BTW, the "semi-synthetic" or "synthetic blend" label on the oil is, most likely, simply for marketing. I'm not familiar with the Valvoline brews, but it is most likely a blend of highly-refined mineral oil base stock (group II, II+, and III), as opposed to having any "pure" synthetic oil (group IV) base stock in it. Nowadays, the term "synthetic" is more closely associated with performance characteristics, at least for marketing, than differentiating between man-made and dino oils.
Again, as long as the oil is "SL" and "GF-3" you should be OK.
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I don't want to revive any dead threads, but the new Castrol Syntec 5w-20 oils clearly label Ford spec right on the front. Does that mean anything when it comes to the Renesis? ...i.e. Can I now use this synthetic oil in my RX-8? Thanks.
#13
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Originally Posted by huhsler
I don't want to revive any dead threads, but the new Castrol Syntec 5w-20 oils clearly label Ford spec right on the front. Does that mean anything when it comes to the Renesis? ...i.e. Can I now use this synthetic oil in my RX-8? Thanks.
I'm not familiar with all the tech details of the Ford specification for 5W20 oils, but let me reiterate that the most important specs to look for on the label are simply this: API Service SL and ILSAC GF-3. These are MANDATORY specs. Any oil with these specs will be good oils to use.
The Ford spec is based on measurements of how well the oil holds up and protects against wear over a long duration. IIRC, it was in excess of 150K (simulated/tested) miles. Oils with this spec, in addition to the API service SL and ILSAC GF-3 ratings, will be your best bet.
#15
Question regarding synthetic oil change
My appologies if this has been posted before, I tried a lengthly search and turned up nothing.
When switching to synthetic, has anyone drained the coolers and lines to change all of the oil? This seems like an easy proposition, but I have hit a snag. How do you prime the pump, coolers, and lines? Since nearly half of the oil is sitting in the coolers and lines, I would like to change all of it. Any ideas?
When switching to synthetic, has anyone drained the coolers and lines to change all of the oil? This seems like an easy proposition, but I have hit a snag. How do you prime the pump, coolers, and lines? Since nearly half of the oil is sitting in the coolers and lines, I would like to change all of it. Any ideas?