Couple of questions
#51
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Are you able to view pictures in attachment form? I can probably explain it, I got a open vacuum hose sitting in the front of my airbox and its the VFAD hose were assuming.
#54
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 7,840
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
9 Posts
Alright!
Just follow this where it concerns the VFAD. Only reall page 3, that's all ya need!
It will also show you in a pic....exactly where the nipple goes on the throttle body!
Sorry Jon...we were typing at the same time! That's a pretty pic though................saved for future use!
Just follow this where it concerns the VFAD. Only reall page 3, that's all ya need!
It will also show you in a pic....exactly where the nipple goes on the throttle body!
Sorry Jon...we were typing at the same time! That's a pretty pic though................saved for future use!
Last edited by Mazurfer; 08-31-2010 at 07:44 PM.
#55
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah the plugs and wires went on with ease! Coils are happening at the end of the week as well as fixing this vacuum leak. I thought I broke my coils at first though, the top of it came off with my old wires so I just put the parts that came off back on and it worked.
#57
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
By the way what size is the vacuum hose? So I know what size cap to get.
Last edited by jayscoobs; 08-31-2010 at 08:10 PM.
#58
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 7,840
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
9 Posts
Best bet like someone said, is just to by a pack of them at Autozone. They are cheap and you will probably need more down the road! One I bought had like five or six different sizes and were black on a plastic tree sort of arrangment.
#60
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks guys, you all are big help. On my other cars I didnt really wrench on them (only for simple stuff) but it feels good to wrench, im starting to learn and know my car inside out and it feels good to do your own work and accomplish them.
#63
Extraordinary Engineering
+1
DeViLbOi is giving you a very safe alternative.
To remove the vacuum lines:
A flat screwdriver can be used to gently push down the rubber tubing from the plastic of the UIM.
This will deform the rubber and effectively loosen its grip on the nipple.
Once this happens you can gently twist it off without pulling the tube.
- It works sort of like a Chinese finger puzzle.
DeViLbOi is giving you a very safe alternative.
To remove the vacuum lines:
A flat screwdriver can be used to gently push down the rubber tubing from the plastic of the UIM.
This will deform the rubber and effectively loosen its grip on the nipple.
Once this happens you can gently twist it off without pulling the tube.
- It works sort of like a Chinese finger puzzle.
#65
Extraordinary Engineering
The real PITA is pulling the caps from the LIM for seafoam when your engine is super hot
Last edited by DarkBrew; 09-02-2010 at 04:10 PM.
#67
The devil made me do it
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 3,708
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Cold by far...who wants to burn their hands?
#68
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
not to the point of burning, like just shutting it off, i meant warm. Oh well that was a stupid question anyways lol
and I totally agree, every thread I read about regarding technical stuff, I see Jon's posts helping them out. He really does know his stuff.
and I totally agree, every thread I read about regarding technical stuff, I see Jon's posts helping them out. He really does know his stuff.
#69
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 7,840
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
9 Posts
FYI............it doesn't have to be a screwdriver to work that hose off. I have a wooden skewer sort of thing that I like to use as it doesn't allow me to use too much force like a metal object. Anyway, all you really want to do is get something between the nipple and the hose. Then sort of work it down a little bit at a time and around the nipple slowly WITHOUT putting any prying pressure on the plastic nipple itself. Once you get whatever it is worked down and around enough, eventually the hose will come off with slight twisting motion. A small flathead does probably work the best as long as you don't poke it through the hose, or use it as a pry tool and bust the nipple.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 09-02-2010 at 07:43 PM.
#70
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
I too still have a lot to learn...
I think Jocelyn might get jealous.
Though your comment scares me... why you sucking up... what do you have planned for me to work on now
#71
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
jayscoobs- I've gotten pretty good at taking off stuck caps and hoses using wide grip pliers.
Don't pinch the hose tight, just a small amount of "grip" so that you can twist/rotate the cap.
Once you can get the cap to rotate back and forth, start pulling away while still twisting the cap.
Don't pinch the hose tight, just a small amount of "grip" so that you can twist/rotate the cap.
Once you can get the cap to rotate back and forth, start pulling away while still twisting the cap.
#72
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On a vacuum related note, I am getting a tune from Mazdamaniac and after my first datalog he noticed a considerable amount of fuel trim and suggested that I may have a vacuum leak. My question is, is there a procedure to follow to diagnose where the leak is?
#73
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
Knowing how much you get will indicate if there is a leak.
But it also helps narrow it down (if there is a vacuum leak) because there are a few lines (SSV, VDI, VFAD) that are normally closed at idle.
The AIR solenoid is fired for the 1st ~60sec when the car is started, so if you show low vacuum at first, then it goes up once the air pump shuts off, that REALLY narrows it down.
Sure you can look at every hose for cracks and such, but that can be difficult and easily overlooked.
#74
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FYI............it doesn't have to be a screwdriver to work that hose off. I have a wooden skewer sort of thing that I like to use as it doesn't allow me to use too much force like a metal object. Anyway, all you really want to do is get something between the nipple and the hose. Then sort of work it down a little bit at a time and around the nipple slowly WITHOUT putting any prying pressure on the plastic nipple itself. Once you get whatever it is worked down and around enough, eventually the hose will come off with slight twisting motion. A small flathead does probably work the best as long as you don't poke it through the hose, or use it as a pry tool and bust the nipple.
#75
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Resurrecting my thread so I dont open a new one, plus it makes it easier for the people that were following my thread and helping me on it. Now to the problems.
I got my coils last weekend and installed them. I also cleaned the MAF and TB, removed all the other VFAD components except for the solenoid with the sensor for it. Apparently the actual VFAD itself wasnt there which is why I had that open vacuum in the first place.
Okay, now one week of driving, my idleing is still dipping and causing engine vibration. I want to just ignore it but I cant and I feel like im going to be hunting down the problem forever. I also have like a metal on metal screeching noise when im revving her really high and sometimes on cruising. Maybe a motor mount?
I got my coils last weekend and installed them. I also cleaned the MAF and TB, removed all the other VFAD components except for the solenoid with the sensor for it. Apparently the actual VFAD itself wasnt there which is why I had that open vacuum in the first place.
Okay, now one week of driving, my idleing is still dipping and causing engine vibration. I want to just ignore it but I cant and I feel like im going to be hunting down the problem forever. I also have like a metal on metal screeching noise when im revving her really high and sometimes on cruising. Maybe a motor mount?