With my current setup, the coils don't get all that hot.
In the above temp scan, the coils were only 160° or so.

 

hate you

btw, which said coils and the location?

beers

 

LS2 coils in the OE location.
How hot do yours get?

 

that is a loaded question.

*******!!!!!! you tell me..

aint got no fancy gadgets to check that stuff, but i can broke it if i try!

btw, baking the coils did not give an answer.



beers

 

Lol.
I imagine it is probably more than just temperature. There is probably a point where thermal overload gives way to dielectric breakdown and the ignitor just stops breaking the field in time for an ignition event.
You should get one of the cheapie laser thermometers. They are a LOT of fun and you can learn a bunch of things about your car when you push it like tire temps and stuffz.

 

Dam... This got me thinking... How many of them coolers can I fit under my hood with out killing my 50/50

 

If you move the battery to the trunk, probably 10 or 11.

 

What swayed you to this current set up instead of a top mount IC?

 

So form over function...

Wait a minute...thats FUNCTION OVER FORM!!

 

I still say that the better solution is to duct the heat up and out via the hood...

I hate the ricer look as much as anyone...but the Varis vented hood is nice tradeoff...

I dont like that its so CF-Blingy...

 

Simplicity.

Also simplicity.

 

I've considered getting the Varis and painting it black to match the car. Lessens the ricer look

 

Same thoughts...I just cant justify paying that much for the hood when that money can be better spent on boost...

Maybe down the road...function over form...

 

What if you had the rad mounted higher and actually used a hood scoop to feed air to it with a puller fan below. Then you could use a completely different variety of ricer hoods with scoops (though functional in this case) rather than vents!

It looks pretty good though. I'll be pushing maximum capacity on how many heat exchangers I can fit in the stock front bumper. I might have to work on maximizing some flow.

 

Holy f*ck!
$1500 for an OEM-style hood with crab gills?

No thanks. I can do that to a spare OE hood for $200.

 

My point exactly...

Except...I'm going with functional crab gills...you know...on a switch so I can close them off manually...to override the auto open/close upon ign event...in case of rain...

I'm a function over form man...and making the gills open and close is easier than making it look stupa shweet...

Replicating the "crab-gill" as a cut and drop-in system that I can bolt onto an OEM hood also shouldnt be that big of a deal either...

Short of time...like most things...I simply havent gotten around to it...

 

Ha...you better not...I'll be needing that badboy when I start turning the juice up...

 

SPEC flywheel FTW.
The rad is only important for 4 months out of the year.
Flywheel is forever.

 

FAWKING UNDERTRAY....

Apparently plastic just does not hold up to sustained high speeds...

Anyone know if a ready-made part exists made of sheet metal?

If not...I guess its time to rip it all out...make me some parts...and properly duct the nose with metal components...

Especially before I drive the thing in summer across the country...arrrggg

 

an added bonus you may not realize is that with the fan you have in that location is actually helping in cooling all that tangle of radiator/heater hoses we have at or near the thermostat housing. It is one of the big sources for heat soak.
I am looking into putting a fan on the front of that alternator!
Hey--i have an idea---put some snow blower fans behind that new rad and duct them under the car with a sealed airbox. It will turn your car into a sucker car!!
Woo Hoo!
Good work dude.
olddragger

 

I was poking around in the bay this morning...those holes to vent the heat out of the engine bay via the side vents...its TINY...

This car can definitely use a little bit of flow massaging...I might just end up making my own ducts to segment the entire system out so I can monitor and measure the flow and temps...

 

Yeah, I've been wondering about that too. Has anyone ever explored making the fender vents more functional? It seems to me I recall someone saying that it would require cutting into a structural section??

 

Yea it does...if you open it up...you have better be prepared to reinforce that area afterwards...

It's not a good idea to cut that part up as its there for a reason...for the most part...heh

 

You've seen my TupperWare replacement, right?
That worked pretty good.
I've since replaced that with .06" aluminum sheet.

The problem isn't the plastic - its the holes where it bolts to the bumper.

 

Haa...thats fawking sweet...talk about artistically done Tuppering...

I wreak alot of TupperWare in the course of testing...so I applaud your efforts...bravo

Yea, I was poking under there earlier...I'm not liking how that was done...and yet I dont want to spend alot of time right now because thats running out...

I was going to temporarily hack the current trashed one and go hybrid on its ***...10% orig, 80% metal, 20% blood and harsh language...