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my reman came with rust spot all over, specially water pump area. they probably uses straight water to test leak. and that's the result.
I'm gonna crack open the engine and clean as much as possible.
and those sludge, I seen it from my FC's old engine, except mine was much worst, no biggie I think, just lack of maintenance, my FC/8 getting it's distilled water flush every year now.
Earlier in the thread someone mentioned Royal Purple - Purple Ice. It's on sale at my parts store and I am in need of a flush. I bought the car with 81K on it and have no idea if or when it was last changed so I'd like to update it so I at least know when it was last done.
Living in Colorado I do see below freezing temps so I can't go the straight distilled water route some of you have mentioned. Whatever is in there currently is Greenish from what I can see in the coolant bottle.
I bought an ultragauge and see crazy high temps all the time. If sitting in traffic it goes to 206-210 degrees all the time, and if I run the AC then it'll get to 214-216. These cars run so damn hot! I want to preserve the motor as best as I can so I want to put whatever is the right coolant and solution that will work for me at my altitude and winter temps we have.
Other option I found was that Mazsport thermostat that turns the fans on high at 190.
Purple Ice = Snake Oil. And the Mazmart thermostat is pointless. just run a good 50/50 and make sure the rest of your system is in proper working order. FYI , my bosses SLS sits at idle at 215-220F. His Porsche sits right at about the same. According to Mazda (take it for what it is worth) the danger zone is on the Renesis is not until 243F.
Found a pic on my phone, 215F oil and 199F coolant at cruise.
I know youre running a turbo so it'd be different, but even when you were an NA you didnt put in any additives? I was initially going to throw in the 50/50 prestone jug I bought. I am just really paranoid about how sensitive this motor is too cooling system issues and want to make sure it's done right. Also the concern is that I am where it snows so would a 50/50 be fine for avoidance of freezing?
You can try different products but it's not really needed. 50/50 is fine unless you are talking extreme cold. being turbocharged did not change my coolant temps much, but i had a bigger radiator and such before I went turbo. The addition of the FAL dual fan shroud does allow my temps to drop much much faster at low speeds though. And I run Evans waterless coolant now but I can't say that it is any better than normal quality 50/50. There are also other products specifically targeted at reducing corrosion and such. such as Norosion. But who know what benefits an RX-8 owner would actually see.
Yes I use it and quite a few others have as well, I can't say that it is better just yet but it works just fine. But it's a PIA to find so you have to keep stock in case you need it in a pinch.
I ended up throwing in the Royal Purple - Purple Ice since it was on sale at the store at the time and I figured I'd give it a shot. I havent seen any real reduction in temps on the hot days. I still hit 210-214 all the time after having sat in traffic or on a hot day. So the supposed 22 degree change/reduction in temps seems to be a farce on the bottle, but what can you do. That is on a claimed dyno run anyways.
But living in Colorado and seeing temps below freezing a lot I did put in more antifreeze than water for my mix, something like 60/40 or so along with that Purple Ice business.
I guess tho without knowing what the normal temps should be sitting at for my car I can't say there was much difference from what it was without it. For all I know the prior owner had already put this type of material in the last coolant swap and I just put in the same thing as was already in there. But for $6 that wasn't too bad and worth it to at least give it a shot just for ***** n gigs. If I compared the temps with straight 50/50 coolant vs what I put in there I could say whether or not there was a difference.
I do like that some of the poeple have mentioned they sit at 185 all day in traffic with AC going and maybe spike up to 190. I wish I could figure out how to get mine to fit at that. Aside from the mazsport fan mod which even 9K also says is worthless
Clean the condensor/radiator
straiten any bent fins
Make sure the fans are working.
check the thermostat is opening at the proper temp
Flush the radiator
Make sure the foam is in place around the radiator
Replace the hoses and radiator
IF you do you'll probably get your temps down. Somewhere in that mix throw in using a flash tuner to lower the fan on temps.
The problem is that people don't look at it as a system, it only functions right if all the parts of the system are working properly. And yes the fan mod is useless.
Clean the condensor/radiator
straiten any bent fins
Make sure the fans are working.
check the thermostat is opening at the proper temp
Flush the radiator
Make sure the foam is in place around the radiator
Replace the hoses and radiator
IF you do you'll probably get your temps down. Somewhere in that mix throw in using a flash tuner to lower the fan on temps.
I just did a full coolant flush this last weekend with about a 60/40 and Royal Purple Ice. I have inspected the radiator and don't have any bent fins at all which is good.
As for the thermostat I am not sure how to actually check when it is opening or not or at what temperature. I did purchase a scangauge which is where I am getting the readings from tho. The fans do work I have checked them as I did the "fans on low mod" and grounded my fan relay so they come on all the time and are on low and I can see they are both working and spinning.
For fans on high, I am not sure at what temp that occurs at, but I did have the fans go on high when I put the AC on during a hot day and then popped the hood to again make sure both were spinning, they were pretty loud of course being on high.
Only 1 time after a long drive in the heat with the AC I came home and shut the car off and the fans stayed on high blast for probably 5 minutes without shutting off. I went back in and turned the key to see what was up and thats when the system turned them off. But that was before I had the scangauge so I didnt get to see what the temp was that caused them to blast on high for 5 minutes after car was off. I have seen other threads about this with people having the fans stay on blast for 20+ minutes after the car turned off. Once again I am not sure why mine did that but probably due to high temps and AC running for a while, but as to when it would shut off I don't know, it just turned off when I blipped the key.
For the foam around the radiator I have read about that mod and need to get my damn airbox out of there to get under and put the foam in. I checked the thread that mentioned that but haven't found one with pics of what it looks like with the foam surround.
That's a pretty good start to the list. you might beable to see when the thermostat opens on a cold start up. Watch the temps close. They will rise then fall hard a time or 2 until the system becomes heat soaked. If the temp is above 190 when it starts to fall teh first time you need a new thermostat. I ahve a auto zone thermostat and see it open about 185, then it closes again about 178F and the temp starts rising again.
You can also check it more accurately by puling it out and putting it in a pot on the stove then use a thermometer to see when it opens and closes.
Also do you have a undertray under the radiator?
I have the stupid fans come on when I kill the car regularly even with the temps below 200. Sometimes in the 180's. I just turn the key back on and off and they quit. it's been like that since new for me.
Last edited by logalinipoo; 07-16-2015 at 05:02 PM.
That's a pretty good start to the list. you might beable to see when the thermostat opens on a cold start up. Watch the temps close. They will rise then fall hard a time or 2 until the system becomes heat soaked. If the temp is above 190 when it starts to fall teh first time you need a new thermostat. I ahve a auto zone thermostat and see it open about 185, then it closes again about 178F and the temp starts rising again.
You can also check it more accurately by puling it out and putting it in a pot on the stove then use a thermometer to see when it opens and closes.
Also do you have a undertray under the radiator?
I have the stupid fans come on when I kill the car regularly even with the temps below 200. Sometimes in the 180's. I just turn the key back on and off and they quit. it's been like that since new for me.
That is a good idea to take the thermostat out and then try it in a pot on the stove. I may have to do that. I do have the full undertray underneath the radiator as well.
My fans are always on with that fans on low mod, but they rarely come on high and I dont know what the setting is for them to come on HIGH from stock settings thats where that mazsport sounded like a good idea, then they would come on at 185 and stay on. Aside from that flash you mentioned I there probably isn't another way of getting them on high at a lower temp. If they could somehow come on even at 200 that would be good, but I think the stock turn on point is 215 or 216 something like that.
Stock fan temp is 207, though the temps usually blip over that a bit before dropping just due to the delay in circulation time.
I have a Mazmart 172F thermostat, and I sit between 170-185 when driving around, depending on ambient, and when the fans kick on, the temps drop quickly. Other than the thermostat, entirely stock cooling system. (though all replaced about 20,000 miles ago)
High coolant temps in low speed driving or when stationary is either a fan problem (that you have ruled out) or a simple radiator efficiency problem. I suspect that you have an old radiator and coolant lines, and they are probably being restrictive to coolant flow, so your cooling system efficiency is just terrible.
Koyo perfect fit MT radiator from Mazmart is $150, well worth the money to swap it if you are seeing these issues.
Any coolant that does not contain ethanol, methanol, borate, silicates, or 2-ethyl hexanoic acid is suitable. Peak Global Lifetime meets these requirements. I got bored looking for current Prestone MSDS and gave up. The older ones I found all show 2EHA and/or silicates.
According to its MSDS, FL22 contains: Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1), Water (7732-18-5), Diethylene Glycol (111-46-6), Potassium Hydroxide (1310-58-3), Proprietary Inhibitors (NJTSRN 217). This is the exact same makeup as at least one iteration of Motorcraft Extended Life, which at least used to be a little cheaper.
I just used Zerex Asian Formula (purple). Seems to meet all the requirements above. Going to flush it again in 2k miles or so (reman engine with 1,700 on it right now) to try to get ahead of the sealant gunk issue. Will probably stick with Zerex next time since I have some left over, or maybe go back to FL-22 if you guys think there's something wrong with Zerex.
06-24-2015, 07:51 PM
He just didn't read it.
