hwong10

Hey ive had my 8 for a year from new and have only did 11,500 miles in it. I have had some power loss and clutch biting point is too high up.
So i went to the garage to have it checked and they told me it was my clutch starting to slip and they could adjust it so that it should feel back to normal and that the power delivery shod be the same again.
Does anyone know whether it will be back to normal once adjust and will i have the same amount of power when accelerating? Or is my clutch finished?

Its just that if the adjustment isnt that good then its a waste of money which cod have been put towards a new aftermarket clutch. Also do u think my flywheel has been damaged aswell?
Thanks, Henry

yiksing

I thought the clutch is self adjusting?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

what do you mean by *power loss* ?

and do you even know what exactly a *slipping clutch* feels like ?

'In order to help you, we would like you to give us more information.

hwong10

Yea my friend's dad told me it should be hydraulic clutch and should be self- adjusting but the mazda garage told me they can adjust it.

By power loss i mean, theres no surge in power anymore... like when u change gear there used to be a slight feeling that pulls u into ur seat. I fot it might be that im used to my car but the car feels really sluggish. Dont know what it feels like for a clutch to slip... but know that if the revs go up and the car doesnt accelerate that is ur clutch slipping. The guy told me ur clutch is starting to slip thats why there is a loss in power.

Can i ask u guys if u all still have stock clutches? and is an aftermarket clutch less comfortable to drive with?

Also wanting to know which springs are the best; Eibach Pro Kit Lowering Springs, Tanabe NF-210 Lowering Springs or Tein S. Tech Spring Kits / Tein S-Tech Lowering Springs.
What induction kit is the best in terms of 'fuel effieciency' and a nice sound off it?
Last question what is better for brake pads ceramics or compound? Was told that best to go for OEM but they r compound.
lol soz for drifting from the orginal subject and thanks for ur advice, V. much appreciated.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

To your question :

Mazda garage will tell ya whatever they can make money outa you.

Your powerloss issue might be cat related, and you're half-right about the clutch slipping feel, when your clutch slips, you should be able to tell right away because your your clutch simply cannot grab the engine, your rev will spike , and you will get a strong plastic-like smell coming from your car.

I still have stock clutch, and it depends on what kind of aftermarket clutch you talking about, if its just street clutch you should be fine(need a while to get used to tho), a Racing only clutch will kill your leg.

Springs you can search theres a spring spring spring thread in here.

Intake .... everyone defines the word *nice sound* in a different way, so theres no one size fit all in here. but I would suggest K&N Typhoon Version III (I have it), racing beat, and HKS induction kit.

OEM pads got some really good stuff, but its just that its the squeak that most people dont like (performance pads will squeak) and theres quite alot of brake dust with these kind of material.

Ceramics will give ya Far far far FAR less brake dust so your tires will not look *brownish* the whole time. performance wise .... depends on which company u going for.

hwong10

NYCGP what would u do if u were in my position? Would u try and get it adjusted? or would u splash out on a new clutch for peace of mind?

LionZoo

Bring your car up to sixth gear at maybe 2500 rpm (50 mph) and then floor it. If the revs and speed increase in lock step your clutch is okay. If your revs shoot up but your acceleration is sluggish then you have a bad clutch.

For what it's worth, 11,500 miles is very low for a new clutch to be needed. Also, adjusting the clutch would not do anything; if your clutch is toast you'll need a new one. I know clutch replacement is generally not a warranty item (it's considered wear so you pay out of pocket), but is the dealer going to charge warranty for the "adjustment?" Perhaps what they mean by clutch adjustment is adjusting the position of the actual clutch pedal? I just it could be conceivable that your clutch pedal position slipped, though then it would be difficult to explain your powerloss. We really do need more information like when does the powerloss happen, how long has it been since you first experienced it, and how severe is it?

yiksing

Maybe you are now smoother in revmatching and shifting that the car doesn't jerk anymore. There is no best springs, its a matter a finding a compromise with regards to the road condition you will be experiencing most of the time. And lastly I strongly believe in don't worry about mileage if you are after power.

csuttman

As for the brake pads... I just installed ceramics from Nappa for $50... and $12.50 each for turning the rotors. I like the feel and performance of them better than the OEM pads. I haven't had them on long enough to know how much difference they make with the dust though. Brown wheels suck, so I'm hoping they dust less as promised. No squeeking either!!!

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I would say try and see if your clutch are really slipping.

It doesnt matter how long have you had the clutch, some cars actually died before the original clutch goes out. So it really depends on your driving style.

Clutch can die as little as few hundred miles, but thats only if you seriously abusing it (or drag racing everywhere even on the streets with some 85 Civic)

Dont believe everything your Mazda Garage people tells ya. Its your car you should decide which is the best for her.

epitrochoid

About the only thing they can do to "adjust" it is bleed the clutch line...otherwise something's got to be broken or worn.