skhmund

i'm about to change the oil on my 8, n i was just checkin out the oil filter's position, it looks a bit tricky to get it out from the top, so im wonderin if i should get it from the bottom or should i just leave to a professional? all opinions appreciated, thanx.

ZoomZoomH

iTrader: (1)

get it from the top, it's not that hard, especially if you have some proper tools to help you out

a filter wrench cap, universal joint, and a 10" extension bar will make twisting off the filter very easy, just watch out for the oil spilling out

have fun

ZoomZoomH

iTrader: (1)

oh, and browse through the DIY forum, i think there's a thread on DIY oil change somewhere in there...

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

I would let the dealer change the first filter - the factory puts it on REALLY tight, and they have "techniques" of getting it off. After the first change, definitely DIY!

S

User24

iTrader: (1)

When I changed my oil filter, I went to Pep Boys, and had them help me get all the tools necessary. I have the part #s and sizes and everything in my car somewhere, I'll get that information for you sometime today.

samyv2

I agree with StealthTL, If its the first one get the dealer to do it as it's next to impossible to get off. After that do it on your own. FYI--Mazda makes a tool taht makes it really easy to take off.

Nubo

I've always been baffled by the design of oil filters. They're just dumb. The ability to apply torque to these things is marginal at best. How much harder would it be to incorporate some type of splines into the cap to ensure positive engagement? You could even design them to give much more torque in the counter-clockwise direction if you're worried about over-tightening. Too much unnecessary misery when it comes to oil filters, imo.

ucfracerx8

Oh No, not another 1st oil change how do I get the filter off... just kidding.

Mine was a pain, the factory filter was actually slightly larger in diameter than the Stock OEM ones I bought from Trussville, go figure. I managed to get it off with a 69MM wrench, a 12" extenstion and a 3ft long wrench. Boy let me tell you, I was nervous to have to bring out the big guns to get the filter off, but with nice even steady pressure, it started moving, came off with no damage and I will not have the problem again as it is not necessary to get it that tight to form a complete seal. Don't forget to put a rag down there to soak up the oil that will drip out, don't want to get it all over the motor.

gonnahanvan8

Yep, have a can of engine cleaner with ya. Don't strain your overies. just do it like a man and give it a bit of reach around. I bought the wrench cap for $2 at a Meijer store.

User24

iTrader: (1)

I took some photos of the tools but the firewall is blocking access to my ftp account. Mazda dealers did not carry any special tools for me. So I performed my first oil change with these:

(1) 3/8'' Drive Round Head Ratchet

(1) 3/8'' Drive Universal Joint

(1) 3/8'' Drive 10'' Extension

(1) A256 (68mm x 14 flute) RiteFit Cap Wrench

(1) A255 (65mm x 14 flute) RiteFit Cap Wrench

(1) Fram Sure Drain (sd2 size) quick drain plug (optional)

(4) rags (red, no specific specifications)

I knew nothing when I rented a stall, and I was too nervous about using the lifts. I had to ask people where to put the jacks and stands underneath the vehicle. I also had to ask a tech to show me where the oil drain plug is (it is actually accessed from the passenger side!).

Note 1: Stock filter is removed with the A256 Cap Wrench.

Difficulties 1: It took me 20 to 30 minutes, as my Ratchet/Extension/Joint assembly kept on popping out of the Cap Wrench when applying torque. And it took a minute or so to plug it back in, since the Cap Wrench actually became "fused" onto the oil filter and could no longer be removed with human hands (I turned the stock filter in along with the Cap Wrench still on it). Problem with the Universal Joint was that it kept rotating around when I was trying to stick it back into the Cap Wrench hole... Also, a longer Cap Wrench would have been helpful, if they were actually made longer. That way my Universal Joint could be fully seated into the Cap Wrench, rather than halfway sticking out due to the oil filter underneath taking up room... I just didn't give up and eventually under fairly light pressure the stock filter started coming loose. It was more a game of mental endurance than physical strength, and I won.

Mistake 1: I had forgotten to put baby diapers around the base of the filter, so the oil dripped all the way down to the ground.

Note 2: Replacement filter tightened using A255 Cap Wrench. It is no use explaining to the store people why they need to help you find two different size wrenches, they will act like they know so much more than you and try to sell you just one size.

Difficulty 2: I should have tightened the Sure Drain system onto the oil pan before screwing on its cover cap. Since I had the cover cap already on as I screwed it into the Mazda, the cover cap became tight as hell as well and it took a vise+wrench to separate them.

Note 3: The red rags the shop sold me for $1.00 were crap. They left little fleece fuzzies on the metal surfaces as I cleaned them of the oil I dripped.

Note 4: The shop did have stronger torque tools available, and I tried those, but they were too big for the job.

beachdog

No need for tools for tightening. Put some oil on the filter gasket and then hand-tighten only. It will say right on the box how much usually 1/2 to 3/4 turn after first contact. Mark the filter with a sharpie so you can tell how much you have tightened.

Another sharpie trick - sign your old filter before you go to the dealer for an oil change. That way you can be sure that you have a new filter if they don't let you watch.

G8rboy

My tips I always hand out for this type of post:
- Use the two socket extenders with a universal joint between them, and a filter cap-style wrench on the end
- Put a strip of sandpaper inside the rim of the filter wrench (just for the first change... the rest will be easier)
- Wrap the base of the filter mount with a medium sized baby diaper to collect the overspill
- Do NOT puncture the filter in an attempt to pre-drain it or remove it by force... it's not necessary if you follow the above.

Have fun... it's good bonding time!

Jaguar_MBA

I have the filter wrench cap from Autozone and always use a MAZDA OEM filter. the issue I have is that the Filter cap keeps sliding and "skipping" around on top of the filter. I have to place some sandpaper inside the filter wrench cap and then force that on to the top of the filter to get the filter removed.....Otherwise I can not get enough of a grip to apply all the torque I want to place onto the filter cap.

Go48

Hmmm, I bought the Mazda filter cap and it actually fits tight enough that I sometimes have a hard time removing it from the filter. Might want to get one since they are not very expensive.

Nubo

iirc, the oem filter says tighten 1 + 1/6 turns after contact. That IS a lot, but I follow the instructions here. I'd rather have a hard time removing the filter than risk leaking on the highway. Even if it is a small risk. I do have to admit though, the last time I changed the oil I had to resort to the BFS!!

Dark8

I use K&N oil filters. They have a nut molded on top so you can just use a socket to get them off.

Raevik

I guess I play with fire.

I hand tighten my oil filters as hard as I can...but that's it. I've never had a filter come loose or leak oil, though.

Changing my oil filter takes about 30 seconds.

JonsToy

I'm a hand tightener, too, but I bought the car used and didn't have to fool with the initial oil change. I tighten it until I'm sure that any further tightening would make it too hard to remove by hand. Haven't had a leak yet.

Though I did burn the back of my hand on the last removal.

G8rboy

I also hand tighten, but using the filter cap wrench in my palm for a little added torque (my hands are usually pretty slippery after a change). I like that little bit of extra assurance...

expo1

Just to add a bit more about the sure drain. I just installed it and I think it will work out well.

maztech

you guys crack me up, an oil change on an 8 takes me about 10 minutes, the first change sux to get the filter off, but its n ot that bad...LoL

rxevolved

You crack me up. What a PRODUCTIVE post you have here. You should feel proud.


And by the way, hand tightening and loosening seems to be the best for this car, just be sure to catch the oil that comes out the side.

legokcen

I've found it easier to get to the oil filter if you remove the 10mm bolt connecting the AC line to the firewall and pull the line out a little. It makes getting a filter wrench in there much easier. This way, I can use a regular filter wrench instead of those "from the top, socket style" wrenches.

maztech

LoL.. im sorry, if you cant even change your own oil, thats your own problem

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

You are obviously a Mazda tech. (See how quick I deduced it? I'm just that good!)

.....and that is not a profession that gets a lot of respect here!

You just posted that - even for you - the initial filter change "sux", then you give people who have maybe NEVER changed the oil on ANY car, a hard time; they crack you up, it's their problem, etc.

After reviewing the extent and tone of your 8 previous posts, you could be a LITTLE more helpful....if you have any training/tips to share. please do, you can earn a lot of respect, but a condescending attitude will get you nowhere.

S