changed my oil
#1
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changed my oil
I just changed my oil myself. this was my 8's third oil change. the first two were performed by dealerships (1st by the dealership I bought it from, second by a highly recommended dealership). I didn't jack the car up at all.
the crush washer I removed from the oil drain plug had been painted black! it must have been the factory crush washer. so two different dealerships must not have bothered to replace it. I did. (crush washer cost a buck, the filter was $8.something, for a total of $9.95 with tax for both)
the oil filter was only hand tightened. a pleasant surprise, in that it was easy to get the old oil filter off.
the car had been driven about 4 hours previously. I wrapped the oil filter with a diaper first; fortunately, because some oil came out with the old filter.
breaking the drain plug loose could have been a problem, but I have a 2-foot long socket driver (non-ratchet) that I use for taking off wheels, with that it wasn't too hard.
the hardest part was putting the drain plug and new crush washer back on. since I didn't jack the car up, there wasn't much room between my oil collection pan and the place where the drain plug went. the crush washer slipped off and fell in the old oil! that sucked. after that I moved the pan away and just put some newspaper under the hole to catch the odd drip or two while I put the plug back in. I don't have a torque wrench, so I just tightened the drain plug some random amount.
I added in 4 quarts of castrol gtx 5w20, drove it to warm up, turned the motor off and let it sit for 5 minutes. then checked the oil level: about 2/3 of the way between the two marks.
took about an hour, and I'm really slow at this kind of stuff. it was fun though (except for fishing the crush washer out of the old oil). man it will suck taking it to the dealer next time though!
the crush washer I removed from the oil drain plug had been painted black! it must have been the factory crush washer. so two different dealerships must not have bothered to replace it. I did. (crush washer cost a buck, the filter was $8.something, for a total of $9.95 with tax for both)
the oil filter was only hand tightened. a pleasant surprise, in that it was easy to get the old oil filter off.
the car had been driven about 4 hours previously. I wrapped the oil filter with a diaper first; fortunately, because some oil came out with the old filter.
breaking the drain plug loose could have been a problem, but I have a 2-foot long socket driver (non-ratchet) that I use for taking off wheels, with that it wasn't too hard.
the hardest part was putting the drain plug and new crush washer back on. since I didn't jack the car up, there wasn't much room between my oil collection pan and the place where the drain plug went. the crush washer slipped off and fell in the old oil! that sucked. after that I moved the pan away and just put some newspaper under the hole to catch the odd drip or two while I put the plug back in. I don't have a torque wrench, so I just tightened the drain plug some random amount.
I added in 4 quarts of castrol gtx 5w20, drove it to warm up, turned the motor off and let it sit for 5 minutes. then checked the oil level: about 2/3 of the way between the two marks.
took about an hour, and I'm really slow at this kind of stuff. it was fun though (except for fishing the crush washer out of the old oil). man it will suck taking it to the dealer next time though!
#2
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It's good bonding time
I highly recommend picking up a cheap floor jack/jack stands combo (<$50)... it makes jobs like this much easier to raise the front end, and a with a rolling floor jack it only takes a minute to lift and lower both sides. Also, I wouldn't worry much about the crush washer not being replaced... I usually flip mine over at least once if I don't have any spares on hand. I've never had a leak because of a recycled washer. also, if you get a oil collection pan with a screen over the drain hole, you won't have to go fishing for your washer again... I've been there several times myself.
I highly recommend picking up a cheap floor jack/jack stands combo (<$50)... it makes jobs like this much easier to raise the front end, and a with a rolling floor jack it only takes a minute to lift and lower both sides. Also, I wouldn't worry much about the crush washer not being replaced... I usually flip mine over at least once if I don't have any spares on hand. I've never had a leak because of a recycled washer. also, if you get a oil collection pan with a screen over the drain hole, you won't have to go fishing for your washer again... I've been there several times myself.
#4
Changed oil myself yesterday too for the first time. Since I changed it at 3000 miles, I left the filter on, that one should be good for 7500 miles, so 6000 should not be a problem - will change next time (I use Purolator One, it is larger than the OEM one). Used Castrol GTX 5W20, changed this often, no need for synthetics. But, I had the dealer instal the Fram Quick Drain valve (SD-2, from Pep Boys) last time, so it took only 10 minutes for just the oil change. No need to raise the car, just turn the wheels all the way to the right.
Finding a place to properly dispose of the old oil was another story...
Finding a place to properly dispose of the old oil was another story...
#7
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Originally Posted by bxb40
Finding a place to properly dispose of the old oil was another story...
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#10
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Originally Posted by SAFD1450
Hey ZoomZoomH save me a little research please. Which model do I have to buy and which adapter (If any) is needed? Thanks.
let me just repeat that it works GREAT.
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