CEL Problems
#1
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CEL Problems
First a little background.
Ive been driving the car around all day. I stopped at my GF's house tonight. When i left it was raining. I let the car warm up for about 1 min before driving off. I drove about 2-3 miles then the CEL came on. When the car hits 6k I lose power, then engine begins to sputter. The traction light comes on and stays on and the CEL begins to blink.
I then pulled over and shut off the car. I restarted let it warm up again then begain to drive again. After a few miles I tried to take it to 6k again. With the same results.
Has anyone had this problem?
Ive been driving the car around all day. I stopped at my GF's house tonight. When i left it was raining. I let the car warm up for about 1 min before driving off. I drove about 2-3 miles then the CEL came on. When the car hits 6k I lose power, then engine begins to sputter. The traction light comes on and stays on and the CEL begins to blink.
I then pulled over and shut off the car. I restarted let it warm up again then begain to drive again. After a few miles I tried to take it to 6k again. With the same results.
Has anyone had this problem?
#2
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You need to have the error codes pulled to determine the problem. Could be any number of things. Blinking CELs are bad stuff, so don't drive too far before you get to the bottom of the problem. People on the forum can speculate on the cause, but speculation won't provide a definitive solution to the problem.
Go to a dealer or to an auto parts store that has a CAN-bus compatible (that's important) scanner and get the DTC error code(s). Then go to the sticky at the top of the forum for the code definitions. Actually best to have the dealer diagnose and correct the problem, presumably under warranty.
Go to a dealer or to an auto parts store that has a CAN-bus compatible (that's important) scanner and get the DTC error code(s). Then go to the sticky at the top of the forum for the code definitions. Actually best to have the dealer diagnose and correct the problem, presumably under warranty.
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The dealer said it was the MAF sensor. It threw a code 103 and 302. They tried to bill me 365 for a new one and said it had water damage. I told them I wanted it back. I cleaned it and reset the ECU and the car is responding beautifully.
I dont know how I would get water to the MAF, I have the MS CAI but I didnt drive though any puddles or anything. The light came on when I was driving down a Highway. Anyone had problems with water in the rain?
I dont know how I would get water to the MAF, I have the MS CAI but I didnt drive though any puddles or anything. The light came on when I was driving down a Highway. Anyone had problems with water in the rain?
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Drove through a downpour when I had the AEM and didn't have a problem. But that's certainly not conclusive. Like Charles said, good job on the DIY.
BTW, Charles when you say it doesn't cost that much what are we looking at? I always assumed it was an expensive piece.
BTW, Charles when you say it doesn't cost that much what are we looking at? I always assumed it was an expensive piece.
#7
MAF sensor, $136.19 from Montgomery Mazda/OnlineMazdaParts.com. This is one of, if not THE best Mazda parts sources out there. Even if you add one labor hour at $105 the total is still only $241 plus any taxes.
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