Originally Posted by Bladecutter (Post 4343833)

Okay, lets go back to the beginning here.

The problems you are having is that the car is stalling when you come to a stop with the a/c on, correct?

You have had the following done:

new convertor
new coils
new plugs
new wires
compression test (passed)
decarb
new motor mounts
maf swapped (and back)

Well, the next item on the list is the neutral position switch on the transmission, if its a manual, and the clutch safety switch.

Anyone else agree?

BC.

Originally Posted by Loki (Post 4343839)

I don't see how, it wouldn't start if that switch was malfunctioning.
And the excessive heat around the floor remains, right?

Maybe the clutch pedal is badly out of adjustment and the clutch is always partially engaged? If the car is running and you clutch in, put it in gear, but don't clutch out, is there any drop in rpm or movement of the car?

Whatever the dealer tries to do, run it by people here first. Sounds like they have no clue what's going on, and if they do put wrong (god forbid regular piston engine sparkplugs) in there, you really will need a new motor. Get us the partnumbers of plugs or anything else they want to try.

We need someone local who knows rotaries to come see this car, this dealer is only creating noise.

Originally Posted by shadycrew31 (Post 4343881)

This is going to sound really stupid... Have you checked the air filter, and coolant level?

Originally Posted by Clarissarx8 (Post 4343766)

They said both o2 sensors are fine.

Originally Posted by shadycrew31 (Post 4343903)

ok cool just making sure.... there are a few other things to try out, but I need to get my bible and I dunno where it is right now. It might be in the garage.

Originally Posted by godesshunter (Post 4343905)

My old shop teacher years ago always said, "start with the basics" You need fuel, fire, and compression.

Compression is good (or so they say) Hot and cold.
Spark is good, or presumed good based on all the new parts.
Fuel is left.

A lean condition will create overly hot combustion and exhaust, in turn making the hot floor and seat rails as described. And fuel starving at low rpm can cause stalling.

Has anybody checked out the fuel system?

Perhaps a fuel pressure check... I personally don't know enough about the rotary engine to know if we have a fuel pressure regulator, but I don't see why we wouldn't. That should be checked for vacuum strength. Its easy to do with a store bought hand vacuum pump with a gauge attached. Not sure about rotary but a piston engine should hold 15-20 psi at the FPR.

Or the health of the injectors. It should be possible the remove the injectors and visually inspect the spray. That needs to be done with a scanner though to trigger the pulse test.

And lastly back to those O2 sensors. When you say:



Do you know if they actually watched them surge high and low? Or just saying that to "shut you up" based on no code for the light? You should be able to request a print out of the graph test for no fee as part of the diagnostic charge.

Here is a pic of what you should see. The top O2 sensor is good. The bottom is bad.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3..._202chnlO2.gif
The condition of the O2 sensor plays a direct role in determining the air fuel ratio. The O2 sensor tells the computer how the exhaust is burning and compensates fuel delivery to achieve the 14.7/1 it needs to be.

If the O2 sensor is lying, the computer could be not sending enough fuel and causing it to stall at idle and run too lean under load.

Originally Posted by Clarissarx8 (Post 4343925)

One of the codes of the check engine lights my boyfriend said was actually for the o2 sensor. Didn't say whether or not it was front or back or both.

Originally Posted by Clarissarx8 (Post 4344415)

Meanwhile they are getting me a rental for the entire time. Guess I can't complain too much.

Originally Posted by shadycrew31 (Post 4344417)

Ehhh... I'll be in Philly in 2.5 weeks if its still down I'll fix it for you.

Originally Posted by Clarissarx8 (Post 4344467)

Thank you so much for offering, but they've already ordered the motor. Anything I should be aware of/cautious about with my new motor?

Originally Posted by Clarissarx8 (Post 4344467)

Thank you so much for offering, but they've already ordered the motor. Anything I should be aware of/cautious about with my new motor?

Originally Posted by RIWWP (Post 4344475)

Well, gratz on a fix?! :)

Break it in slowly following one of the break in procedures. And i'd make a point to remind them about making sure that fuel line is secure and/or replaced. Too many lost 8s from fires after engine changes when the fuel line pops off and hoses the hot engine with gas. Still rare comparatively, but still too common. But otherwise, should be good to go.

Originally Posted by Bladecutter (Post 4344503)

They're replacing the motor?
Makes me wonder why, if the compression is perfect, according to them...

Have they told you why they are replacing the motor so suddenly?

BC.

Originally Posted by shadycrew31 (Post 4344479)

There are several recommendations for break-in. Everyone has a different opinion on what to do. The general consensus is to beat the shit out of it for 5 miles then baby it for 500 miles gradually working your way up to 8k rpm.

first
100-200 under 4k
200-300 under 6k
300-400 under 7k
400-500 under 8k

But that debate could go on for days and be as complex as which oil to use in our car.

Originally Posted by Clarissarx8 (Post 4344529)

The car still stalled and they cannot figure out what the problem is so they are putting in a new motor. They say if that still doesn't fix the problem they will go from there.

Originally Posted by EricB (Post 4345414)

I hope you arent paying for the motor.

i love when they say we will see what happens after the new motor is in there. If the problem still exists then its something they never looked at/replaced, or they looked at it and in incompetence they overlooked it. What a waste of money, do the job right and not swap in a reman that MAY or MAY NOT be a worse quality motor than you have now.

meh