Originally Posted by PJLyons (Post 4338971)

What I don't get is why the drawing shows a bolt mounting the coil. In mine there is a stud on the mounting bracket and then a nut holds the coil on. Apparently they never updated the drawing or maybe this is an S2 drawing, who knows.

Originally Posted by Clarissarx8 (Post 4340334)

Ha, forgot to mention check engine light came on. Checked the code and it was o2 sensor. Dealership did a compression test, but only a cold one, and they said it passed. They didn't do a hot one for some reason.

When it's cold it starts great. Also runs great for maybe 5 minutes. When it warms up that's when she starts acting up.

I live in Manassas, VA. Have been taking my car to the Mazda in Fairfax as the next closest one to me (Chantilly), I do not care for.

Originally Posted by RIWWP (Post 4340367)

If it's the rear O2 sensor, then this isn't your stalling problem. If it's the front O2 sensor, then this could totally be your stalling problem. If you have a chance to swing by an Advance Auto or Autozone and get the code read, we will be able to tell from the code number which O2 sensor it is. Free service from them.




Trying to think of solidly knowledgeable members near you, but struggling a bit. Rotr8 is in Baltimore I think. I will actually be in Columbia this monday, but largely busy all day, and my wife has all my ODB2 tools in MA for the weekend with my 8 anyway...

...um, coming up dry at the moment. Glancing through lists of people that respond to DC metro area threads, nearly all of the top people aren't owners or members any more.

Originally Posted by EricB (Post 4340407)

check if the wire is fully seated on the coil. Push it down real hard. That would cause the shutting off i believe. This happened to me.

you have an oem intake correct? One of my screens in my aem intake was turned sideways and also gave me a problem..not sure if there are screens in the oem intake.

check the gasket on the MAF, mine broke there as well and was causing my leaning out issue, cant hurt to check.

IIRC cold, our engines have higher compression.. How did they do a cold compression test? did you drop the car off and they checked it the next day or a few hours later?

Originally Posted by RIWWP (Post 4340483)

Yeah, most of the common issues with the 8 cascade from one failure to the next in rapid order, so things get out of hand and expensive quite quickly. At least you have that warranty. Plenty of new owners come on here looking for help and have no options at all.

Almost 1 every week or two that buys the car without any research to know they need a compression test first, and then within a few days to a few months finds out that the engine is below spec.

Originally Posted by Jon316G (Post 2927771)

Cleaning the MAF/IAT is very simple:

First disconnect the wire harness from the MAF/IAT housing and remove the two screws.
You can then lift the housing right up.
Attachment 135629

The IAT is the brown "tear-drop".
Attachment 135630

Look inside the housing and you'll see two resistor wires.
That is the MAF sensor.
Attachment 135631

Simply spray MAF cleaner onto the MAF and IAT.
Give them both a generous spray and let air dry... DO NOT physically touch the wires.
Once air dry, simply reinstall.

Originally Posted by Loki (Post 4340554)

That code isn't 02 sensor, that's random misfire. Are you sure everything was plugged in in order?
Your cat could be damaged from the driving that was done on bad coils. Can you pull it off and see if inside is a nice clean honeycomb or ... well. not?

Originally Posted by Clarissarx8 (Post 4340584)

It's a brand new cat

Originally Posted by RIWWP (Post 4340557)

Ok, that isn't an O2 sensor code. That is: P0300 Random misfire detected Flash/ON 1 or 2 Misfire ´

Was that the only code?


If you are misfiring, then there is a bit of a different direction to take. Usually, misfires are from ignition failure, but they can be caused by airflow problems and dirty sensors as well.

The short easy steps to try is to clean the MAF sensor and the E-shaft sensor. Lots of good info at the beginning of this thread for steps to solve a misfire problem: https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...t-here-222280/

You already did the ignition, and step 2 is the MAF.

The DIY link is to a place that has a link that is dead, so instead of using that DIY, use this: (I'll address the MAF DIY thread problem)


For the MAF: (MAF cleaner is $5 or so at any auto-parts store)

Originally Posted by RIWWP (Post 4340605)

Unfortunately, no, there isn't a solid reason to suspect them of knowing what they are doing. Especially if it's a dealership where there is another brand attached other than Mazda. The techs tend to be generically trained, and not really knowledgeable about the RX-8 in particular, except what they run into personally and what the factory sends them. And the factory doesn't send them much that is actually useful.

Usually, dropping it off at the dealer is the wrong choice simply because the dealer just keeps throwing parts at it, usually all wrong. However, since you have the warranty coverage and it doesn't seem that you have the tools or someone you know that can more directly assist you, then it's probably the right call.

Originally Posted by godesshunter (Post 4340572)

I suggest having someone with a Scanner or the like graph test the front O2 sensor. That could be flat-lined and not throw a specific O2 sensor code, however give misfire problems. Ive seen it before on several cars. The front O2 sensor is often overlooked simply based on the absence of a code.

And while in there for the same diagnostic fee they should be able to test the MAF as well. I don't know off hand what the PPM specs are supposed to read for this car, but the mechanic should be able to look it up on the Scanner while doing the test.

Originally Posted by EricB (Post 4340598)

the wires and plugs however were not. its possible the old wires and plugs cooked it, or that when they swapped cats out they didnt notice that the o2 sensor was cooked, or didnt bother to care when they put it in the new cat.

Originally Posted by nycgps (Post 4340663)

have u did the 20 brake pump reset?

it sounds like e-shaft profile is wrong, and throwing misfire CEL.

Originally Posted by Clarissarx8 (Post 4340699)

Very glad I got the warranty. I'm beginning to wonder if it'll ever get fixed. Thank you again for all your advice. My email is cab8414@gmail.com. Send me your address and I'll send you a check. You've helped me out immensely.

Oh one more thing. If the motor gets replaced and it still stalls and gets hot, what could be the problem(s)?

Originally Posted by Clarissarx8 (Post 4340701)

Really? That quickly? I got the cat put on and afterwards drove her no more than an hour altogether.

Originally Posted by Clarissarx8 (Post 4340702)

Never heard of it

Originally Posted by RIWWP (Post 4340707)

:lol:

Sorry, no, I don't charge for my advice :)

I mean, what if I'm wrong? :dunno:

It's happened before!



Technically, yes, it's possibly. It's unlikely that your cat is already fried, so I'd recommend investigating elsewhere first. When ignition fails, it dumps the unburnt fuel and unconsumed air into the exhaust, and it burns there, basically blowtorching your cat, so they can fail remarkably fast under these conditions. An hour of driving is not likely to get it to that point though.



In the thread I linked a bit earlier today of misfire assistance, the 3rd step has the procedure, although you can do the same thing by disconnecting your negative battery cable for a minute or so.

HOWEVER, regardless of which way you reset, you should be aware that you will probably idle roughly and possibly stall due to not having any fuel trim information. Rough idle and/or stalling that is due to a ECU reset clears up within a couple drive cycles as the computer re-learns things quickly. However, since this is the same description as your problem, it might be disconcerting and/or masking the problem, or the problem is masking whether or not it's cleared up.

So it's just something to be aware of.