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Breaking in question, need answer ASAP

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Old 01-08-2005, 12:12 PM
  #26  
Totally confuzzled...
 
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I've always wondered about this... What purpose does varying your speed serve? I would have thought that maintaining a constant speed (just keeping a stactic load on the engine) would be easier on it?
Old 01-25-2005, 09:20 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by MI_FamilyMan
My tip is: Don't worry, be happy. Follow mfg. recommendations until 600, and then let 'er loose. You'll go paranoid otherwise...
What are some signs that the 600 mile break-in on an AT wasn't followed?
I got my new car with 276 miles on it. The dealership drove it 2 hours to transfer from a sister lot. Plus it was test-driven at the sister lot. Test drivers don't usually know about the break-in period. Heck, my salesman urged me to push it when I test drove their vehicle they had for sale. That's why I didn't want to buy that one.

I'm noticing (with 1100 miles) that the car seems to suddenly slow down a second when I punch the gas pedal, and then the car takes off.
Old 01-26-2005, 02:45 PM
  #28  
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I followed the racing beat procedure and was glad i did. it went by quickly.

I drove the car home from Columbus OH (over 500 miles) the day I bought it. Just varied RPM and speeds by shifting between 4th and 6th. Could still hit 85 while following the RB procedure!
Old 01-26-2005, 10:53 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by G-ReX
I did the Racing Beat recs and it wasn't bad at all. I put miles on 50% faster than my old Probe GT, though. :D
I kept that Probe for 13 years, so if doing the conservative break-in keeps the seals a bit longer, it's worth it.
If the car had quite a few test drive miles on it already, all the rest of us lunatics have already revved the heck out of it, so it may be a moot point.
My car had aprox 130 test drive miles on it when I got it as well. I know they were encouraging people to rev it up on the test drive (heck, they told me to rev it up, but I knew better) These engines are well engineered and built. I'm convinced that it will be just fine in the long term. (and if not, that's OK because I did put the 6 year 100k mile extended warranty on it! If it starts giving trouble before 100k, I'll just have to trade it!)
Old 09-10-2006, 06:48 PM
  #30  
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There are two schools of thought when it comes to breaking in reciprocating engines with very little room for wiggle between 'em:
Drive 'em like you stole 'em (no, not borrowed from above, but heard elsewhere)
-or-
BABY THAT THING!

I've always believed in a mix.

How does that apply to a Mazda rotary?
I don't believe that it does. The wearing parts are the apex and side seals. They bed in quickly and are wearing in parts- they aren't subject to the same forces, and bed in quickly.
Just drive the car according to the recommendations in the manual- and everything'll be fine- compression won't be any better or worse than any other way. Bearings? There weren't really any high spots to begin with (modern manufacturing techniques: having rebabbited and filed several bearings, I'm glad for modern techniques!) but it's nice for shafts to get "used" to the bearings on which they sit- but I can't imagine that to be very long.
After reading and thinking about it, though- the owner's manual recommendations for break-in follow all recommendations I've ever heard about simply driving: don't rev the engine very high for very long (fast engine wear in ALL cases!). Don't do full throttle launches (unless one likes to replace clutch disks/flywheels). Drive gingerly (better gas mileage, don't-cha know?)

On an engine like this, break-in isn't that big of a deal. Now, the Moto Guzzi's I've owned, or even the BMW R1200RT...
Old 09-11-2006, 01:48 AM
  #31  
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holy back from the dead batman..


beers
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