Attention Experts: Break In Oil. Needed or no?
10-24-2011, 01:30 PM
#28
Huh? What do you mean?
The filter by pass only is affected by the oil filter mediums response to the engine's oil pressure. If the oil can't get through the medium fast enough and pressure builds the by pass valve pops open to insure an adequete oil flow.
The S2 model oil filter bypass valve changed to one with a higher pressure valve. I remember that you are not supposed to use a S1 oil filter on a S2 model per Mazzda.
If you have placed a modified oil pressure regulator into the s1 model you should be using the S2 oil filter.
This is old stuff?
The filter by pass only is affected by the oil filter mediums response to the engine's oil pressure. If the oil can't get through the medium fast enough and pressure builds the by pass valve pops open to insure an adequete oil flow.
The S2 model oil filter bypass valve changed to one with a higher pressure valve. I remember that you are not supposed to use a S1 oil filter on a S2 model per Mazzda.
If you have placed a modified oil pressure regulator into the s1 model you should be using the S2 oil filter.
This is old stuff?
10-24-2011, 10:30 PM
#30
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
I am relying on my builder. He recommends good old 10W-30 Dino oil for break in so I picked up a couple of gallons of GTX. But the fact that the made specific break in oil was new to me.
10-24-2011, 10:47 PM
#31
yes, formulated for reciprocating engines with a camshaft valvetrain ...
However, if your going to use a qualified builder it would be smart to pay the extra money to run it in on an engine dyno, they verify that it is operating properly and it shows up ready to bolt in and go
.
However, if your going to use a qualified builder it would be smart to pay the extra money to run it in on an engine dyno, they verify that it is operating properly and it shows up ready to bolt in and go
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 10-24-2011 at 10:52 PM.
10-24-2011, 11:41 PM
#33
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
yes, formulated for reciprocating engines with a camshaft valvetrain ...
However, if your going to use a qualified builder it would be smart to pay the extra money to run it in on an engine dyno, they verify that it is operating properly and it shows up ready to bolt in and go
.
However, if your going to use a qualified builder it would be smart to pay the extra money to run it in on an engine dyno, they verify that it is operating properly and it shows up ready to bolt in and go
.
Don't temp me.
I thought it was every 1/8 mile and then every second Wednesday till Labor day on leap years. Otherwise Columbus Day on the regular calender year. Unless it falls on a Thursday. Then you can only change the oil between 3:00 and 4:00 am. 
10-25-2011, 12:50 AM
#35
Super Moderator
I was told if you boil new engine oil first for a minimum of 15 minutes and let it cool you remove all the nasty hydro percolated synthesized carbon molecules (known as HPSCM) which will prevent the oil from suspending fine engine metal particles. The boiling allows all metal particles to sink to the bottom of your oil pan where it won't be disturbed until the next oil change.
Then any unwanted matter is flushed out at next oil change.
Then any unwanted matter is flushed out at next oil change.
10-25-2011, 01:06 AM
#36
I zoom therefore I am.
I just drilled a hole in my oil pan and keep a 50 gallon drum of oil in my trunk with a hose snaked through the cabin to a hand crank. Yeah, it's a bitch.. but my oil is so pristine. At least the trail i leave everywhere looks clean.
10-25-2011, 02:34 AM
#39
I zoom therefore I am.
as we all know, the oil we each individually use is the best. The oil everyone else uses is crap
10-25-2011, 03:49 AM
#40
Some people using as daily driver might have to start way lower than freezing, but I use as my fun car, and I haven't ever started below 40 deg f which we are told is the summer tires limit to have traction.
That's why I'm a 0w40 fan instead of 5w40, 10w40, or15w40.
There's a cool graph at Widman.biz oil calculators that you can play around with to check oil flow of different oil against each other.
10-25-2011, 12:16 PM
#42
yall are right--never seen an oil related failure anyway. Just a few front bearings that were worn some--thats all.
We probably could do a 10K oil change without a problem--just keep topping it off.
Heck why dont we drain the old oil, boil it, add an additive package and put it back in?
We make our own beer--heck make our own oil.
I am the king of the backyard bubbaizing
We probably could do a 10K oil change without a problem--just keep topping it off.
Heck why dont we drain the old oil, boil it, add an additive package and put it back in?
We make our own beer--heck make our own oil.
I am the king of the backyard bubbaizing
10-25-2011, 12:19 PM
#43
yall are right--never seen an oil related failure anyway. Just a few front bearings that were worn some--thats all.
We probably could do a 10K oil change without a problem--just keep topping it off.
Heck why dont we drain the old oil, boil it, add an additive package and put it back in?
We make our own beer--heck make our own oil.
I am the king of the backyard bubbaizing
We probably could do a 10K oil change without a problem--just keep topping it off.
Heck why dont we drain the old oil, boil it, add an additive package and put it back in?
We make our own beer--heck make our own oil.
I am the king of the backyard bubbaizing
why are we boiling the oil though?
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