Air Pump Delete
#78
The Angry Wheelchair
iTrader: (14)
You can buy it from Racing Beat. I made my own bracket to fit over the top of where the solenoid goes alike to the OP since I couldn't remove the nuts below down on the exhaust. It's up for a few bucks in my FS thread.
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-sale-wanted-44/%2Afeeler%2A-aftermarket-parts-more-partout-231541/
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-sale-wanted-44/%2Afeeler%2A-aftermarket-parts-more-partout-231541/
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Poolwad (10-27-2019)
#81
Since I installed an OBX header, I am guessing I have no need for the air pump and just remove it and that would get rid of the CEL. That is what I am gathering from reading the whole thread. Thoughts please before I move forward.
#87
#88
#89
Air pump works when water temp is below 35°C.
Before you reach 35°C, car is in open loop and very rich, like 11.0 AFR when idle, so air pump helps burn all that fuel.
When water temp reaches 35°C, air pump shuts down and car goes in closed loop.
If air pump is working, then front lambda sensor reads a "false" AFR of 18.5 - 19.0, cause pump is throwing air just before the sensor.
If ECU sees this "false" AFR, then it knows that air pump is working, so no CEL.
If air pump doesn't work, lambda reads "true" AFR, like 11.0 as I wrote... ECU then sees this "true" AFR and if AFR stays near 11.0 for a bunch of seconds then ECU says "too rich, air pump isn't working" and throws CEL P0410. Sometimes if doesn't throw the CEL simply cause you start the car, put in gear and go immediately. Engine gets obviously a little more air than idle to burn fuel, AFR goes up a little (like 12.0-12.5) and ECU does not think that air pump isn't working.
Bye and sorry for using Celsius
Before you reach 35°C, car is in open loop and very rich, like 11.0 AFR when idle, so air pump helps burn all that fuel.
When water temp reaches 35°C, air pump shuts down and car goes in closed loop.
If air pump is working, then front lambda sensor reads a "false" AFR of 18.5 - 19.0, cause pump is throwing air just before the sensor.
If ECU sees this "false" AFR, then it knows that air pump is working, so no CEL.
If air pump doesn't work, lambda reads "true" AFR, like 11.0 as I wrote... ECU then sees this "true" AFR and if AFR stays near 11.0 for a bunch of seconds then ECU says "too rich, air pump isn't working" and throws CEL P0410. Sometimes if doesn't throw the CEL simply cause you start the car, put in gear and go immediately. Engine gets obviously a little more air than idle to burn fuel, AFR goes up a little (like 12.0-12.5) and ECU does not think that air pump isn't working.
Bye and sorry for using Celsius
#94
Moder8
iTrader: (1)
I pulled mine a year ago, never got a CEL, never masked anything.
I read here someplace that there are two places to disconnect. One close to the fender, red connector, and one closer to the pump. The theory is that if you pull the one closest to the fender, car does not even think it has one and no CEL.
just saying....
I read here someplace that there are two places to disconnect. One close to the fender, red connector, and one closer to the pump. The theory is that if you pull the one closest to the fender, car does not even think it has one and no CEL.
just saying....
#95
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
I pulled mine a year ago, never got a CEL, never masked anything.
I read here someplace that there are two places to disconnect. One close to the fender, red connector, and one closer to the pump. The theory is that if you pull the one closest to the fender, car does not even think it has one and no CEL.
just saying....
I read here someplace that there are two places to disconnect. One close to the fender, red connector, and one closer to the pump. The theory is that if you pull the one closest to the fender, car does not even think it has one and no CEL.
just saying....
You are running a MM tune so it's blocked, all emissions related codes are blocked IIRC. From day one mine was pulled completely removing all the wing back to that red connector and I had a CEL since day one until I blocked the code(s) on the Cobb.
#100
'04 Nordic Green GT
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 75
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Upon removing the pump, is it advisable to put a vacuum cap on the nipple where the hose connects to the engine?
I noticed in OP's picture the hose is just chilling there open...
I noticed in OP's picture the hose is just chilling there open...