Air Pump Delete
removed mine today, had to do like the OP in the 1st post, im unable to remove the 2 bolts on the header with my tools...bolts are rusty too and my 10mm box slips on the nut...
The Angry Wheelchair
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You can buy it from Racing Beat. I made my own bracket to fit over the top of where the solenoid goes alike to the OP since I couldn't remove the nuts below down on the exhaust. It's up for a few bucks in my FS thread.
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-sale-wanted-44/%2Afeeler%2A-aftermarket-parts-more-partout-231541/
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-sale-wanted-44/%2Afeeler%2A-aftermarket-parts-more-partout-231541/
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Since I installed an OBX header, I am guessing I have no need for the air pump and just remove it and that would get rid of the CEL. That is what I am gathering from reading the whole thread. Thoughts please before I move forward.
Disconnect the air pump at the connector closest to the side of the car, it is a red connector on my car. Air pump is in box in garage, has been for some time, no CEL. The tip is buried in hosts here, I did not invent it, I just followed it.
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If you simply unplug the air pump and remove it you should get a CEL (unless you are tuned VIA a COBB AP and it's blocked), if you do not then you are just lucky.
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Air pump works when water temp is below 35°C.
Before you reach 35°C, car is in open loop and very rich, like 11.0 AFR when idle, so air pump helps burn all that fuel.
When water temp reaches 35°C, air pump shuts down and car goes in closed loop.
If air pump is working, then front lambda sensor reads a "false" AFR of 18.5 - 19.0, cause pump is throwing air just before the sensor.
If ECU sees this "false" AFR, then it knows that air pump is working, so no CEL.
If air pump doesn't work, lambda reads "true" AFR, like 11.0 as I wrote... ECU then sees this "true" AFR and if AFR stays near 11.0 for a bunch of seconds then ECU says "too rich, air pump isn't working" and throws CEL P0410. Sometimes if doesn't throw the CEL simply cause you start the car, put in gear and go immediately. Engine gets obviously a little more air than idle to burn fuel, AFR goes up a little (like 12.0-12.5) and ECU does not think that air pump isn't working.
Bye and sorry for using Celsius
Before you reach 35°C, car is in open loop and very rich, like 11.0 AFR when idle, so air pump helps burn all that fuel.
When water temp reaches 35°C, air pump shuts down and car goes in closed loop.
If air pump is working, then front lambda sensor reads a "false" AFR of 18.5 - 19.0, cause pump is throwing air just before the sensor.
If ECU sees this "false" AFR, then it knows that air pump is working, so no CEL.
If air pump doesn't work, lambda reads "true" AFR, like 11.0 as I wrote... ECU then sees this "true" AFR and if AFR stays near 11.0 for a bunch of seconds then ECU says "too rich, air pump isn't working" and throws CEL P0410. Sometimes if doesn't throw the CEL simply cause you start the car, put in gear and go immediately. Engine gets obviously a little more air than idle to burn fuel, AFR goes up a little (like 12.0-12.5) and ECU does not think that air pump isn't working.
Bye and sorry for using Celsius
And you will fail emissions unless you live in a state like AL who do not require emissions tests. Technically not having the air pump won't hurt anything, it will just throw a CEL.
I pulled mine a year ago, never got a CEL, never masked anything.
I read here someplace that there are two places to disconnect. One close to the fender, red connector, and one closer to the pump. The theory is that if you pull the one closest to the fender, car does not even think it has one and no CEL.
just saying....
I read here someplace that there are two places to disconnect. One close to the fender, red connector, and one closer to the pump. The theory is that if you pull the one closest to the fender, car does not even think it has one and no CEL.
just saying....
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I pulled mine a year ago, never got a CEL, never masked anything.
I read here someplace that there are two places to disconnect. One close to the fender, red connector, and one closer to the pump. The theory is that if you pull the one closest to the fender, car does not even think it has one and no CEL.
just saying....
I read here someplace that there are two places to disconnect. One close to the fender, red connector, and one closer to the pump. The theory is that if you pull the one closest to the fender, car does not even think it has one and no CEL.
just saying....
You are running a MM tune so it's blocked, all emissions related codes are blocked IIRC. From day one mine was pulled completely removing all the wing back to that red connector and I had a CEL since day one until I blocked the code(s) on the Cobb.
