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Air Pump Delete

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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 01:12 PM
  #51  
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i like him- not that he cares
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 01:33 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by zoom44
i like him- not that he cares
Everyone has their quirks, it's like family, you just learn to ignore them and take the good with the bad.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 04:07 PM
  #53  
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he is not human!
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 04:10 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by ASH8
He is not human!

Maybe he is a cyborg

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Apr 26, 2010 at 04:21 PM.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 06:57 PM
  #55  
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a cyborg with a bag on his head
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 12:11 PM
  #56  
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has anyone thought to use the air pump opening in the header as another header pipe? DOnt block it--just put a small lawnmower type exhaust pipe on it with a small muffler?
Think i am crazy?
OD.
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 12:20 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
has anyone thought to use the air pump opening in the header as another header pipe? DOnt block it--just put a small lawnmower type exhaust pipe on it with a small muffler?
Think i am crazy?
OD.
There is virtually no flow there.
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 06:02 PM
  #58  
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Would like to know how true is this (disable EGR system will lead to detonation) :

2. Check for loss of EGR. The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system is one of the engine's primary emission controls. Its purpose is to reduce oxides of nitrogen (NOX) pollution in the exhaust. It does this by "leaking" (recirculating) small amounts of exhaust into the intake manifold through the EGR valve. Though the gases are hot, they actually have a cooling effect on combustion temperatures by diluting the air/fuel mixture slightly. Lowering the combustion temperature reduces the formation of NOX as well as the octane requirements of the engine.
If the EGR valve is not opening, either because the valve itself is defective or because its vacuum supply is blocked (loose, plugged or misrouted vacuum hose connections, or a defective vacuum control valve or solenoid), the cooling effect is lost. The result will be higher combustion temperatures under load and an increased chance of detonation.


Source : http://www.turborx7.com/detonation.htm
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 06:08 PM
  #59  
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THE RX-8 DOES NOT HAVE A EGR SYSTEM....None, Nothing, nada..Zilch, zero.
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 07:53 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by ASH8
THE RX-8 DOES NOT HAVE A EGR SYSTEM....None, Nothing, nada..Zilch, zero.

I understand that the air pump is for warm up purpose but if ERG system will reduce heat and chance of having detonation, why not convert the system to EGR?
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 08:22 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by csl
I understand that the air pump is for warm up purpose but if ERG system will reduce heat and chance of having detonation, why not convert the system to EGR?
A multitude of reasons, not the least being there is no real effective way to do it.
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 12:35 AM
  #62  
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just did this tonight and removed the tube (like you are suppose to) and blocked it off at the header. and BOY am i glad to have read a few posts back that the resister has to stay plugged in for the car to run cuz i too everydamn thing out and it wouldnt run and i got a bit scared. gonna plug it back up tomorrow and see what it does.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 01:36 AM
  #63  
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what resistor? you mean the solenoid?
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 04:24 AM
  #64  
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Maybe this one...N3H1-18-831

Attached Thumbnails Air Pump Delete-resistor.jpg  
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 08:54 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by ASH8
Maybe this one...N3H1-18-831

Oooo most likely. I thought that was something that related to the fuel guess I was wrong.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 10:40 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I removed everything in Box #1, part #7.

I left everything associated with parts 11,12, and 13.

Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
The resistor has to stay or the car won't run - its for the fuel pump.
Same with part #13 - that is the BARO sensor.
Thanks for the thread 9k

Thanks for the info MM .... this helps me greatly.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 10:49 PM
  #67  
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NP, did you do it?
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 07:17 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
NP, did you do it?
Hell yeah
Took the whole damn thing off.

I knew there was more to it than simply unplugging all that crap and removing it, some bits had to stay.

Now I'm at the part of the turbo install where I'm putting all the bits back together, and this thread magically appeared.

Perfect timing.

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Old May 5, 2011 | 11:52 AM
  #69  
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So what did everyone do with the vac line that runs to the pump. Disconnect it at the sensor behind the manifold?
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Old May 5, 2011 | 11:57 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Phish806
So what did everyone do with the vac line that runs to the pump. Disconnect it at the sensor behind the manifold?
I just removed the hose.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 12:01 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Phish806
So what did everyone do with the vac line that runs to the pump. Disconnect it at the sensor behind the manifold?

I just capped it at the valve when I was replacing the oil injectors and had the manifold off, otherwise you can just cap it.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 01:07 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I just capped it at the valve when I was replacing the oil injectors and had the manifold off, otherwise you can just cap it.
I thought it was a one way valve?
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Old May 5, 2011 | 01:12 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by wcs
I thought it was a one way valve?
Oh i don't know, I just capped that bish. I actually just removed the whole pipe this last weekend while doing the thermostat and moved the RB blocking plate to the header.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 02:57 PM
  #74  
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Its a solenoid so technically its a one way valve. If you unplug it I believe it trips a an ecu code.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 10:42 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
Its a solenoid so technically its a one way valve. If you unplug it I believe it trips a an ecu code.
I've got so many CEL's on my car nowadays it would be concatenated with all the other codes I have.
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