5W30 Oil Don't Cut it, Engine Bearing Pics 58K S1 RX-8 from England.
#326
Lubricious
Join Date: Oct 2003
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For what it's worth...
http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/UsedOil/OilChange/
I haven't drank the Kool-Aid yet. I aim for 3000 miles. Meaning, more like 4000 in practice.
http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/UsedOil/OilChange/
I haven't drank the Kool-Aid yet. I aim for 3000 miles. Meaning, more like 4000 in practice.
#327
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
For what it's worth...
http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/UsedOil/OilChange/
I haven't drank the Kool-Aid yet. I aim for 3000 miles. Meaning, more like 4000 in practice.
http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/UsedOil/OilChange/
I haven't drank the Kool-Aid yet. I aim for 3000 miles. Meaning, more like 4000 in practice.
For my FIT, yeah I change my oil about 3-4K miles.
and CA is nothing but a tree hugger state.
#328
Most of the new cars do specify a full synthetic now, and as mentioned, most people will just take the car to a dealer, so it'll get filled with the right stuff.
#329
Lubricious
Join Date: Oct 2003
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That's the popular perception; other states love that stereotype. But come out here and take a look around. You can see the need. Air quality in the major cities is way better than 40 years ago. But it's still not what you'd call healthy. Had nothing been done, the increase in cars and population would have made it truly unliveable for millions. These problems manifest here first, due to population and geography. But they portend the same problems elsewhere. I'm the first to point out that CARB is sometimes nonsensical and oppressive. However, the reality is that we are damaging our one fundamental resource -- the planet we live on. CA knows this well because we have made many environmental mistakes first, and to greater degrees. For better or worse, we face those problems and try to do better.
#330
For what it's worth...
http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/UsedOil/OilChange/
I haven't drank the Kool-Aid yet. I aim for 3000 miles. Meaning, more like 4000 in practice.
http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/UsedOil/OilChange/
I haven't drank the Kool-Aid yet. I aim for 3000 miles. Meaning, more like 4000 in practice.
Granted, the RX8 cannot go seriously long intervals due to there still being dirty oil in the system but there's no reason a good quality synthetic can't go 4,000 or perhaps even 4,500 miles between changes. The only real way to know is by having your oil tested.
#331
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
I mean there are good dealerships like Wayne, but before I start going to Wayne ... argh ...
That's the popular perception; other states love that stereotype. But come out here and take a look around. You can see the need. Air quality in the major cities is way better than 40 years ago. But it's still not what you'd call healthy. Had nothing been done, the increase in cars and population would have made it truly unliveable for millions. These problems manifest here first, due to population and geography. But they portend the same problems elsewhere. I'm the first to point out that CARB is sometimes nonsensical and oppressive. However, the reality is that we are damaging our one fundamental resource -- the planet we live on. CA knows this well because we have made many environmental mistakes first, and to greater degrees. For better or worse, we face those problems and try to do better.
but sometimes request/requirements in CA are just ridiculous.
but the fact is, its exactly opposite. a typical Toyota engine from the 80s-90s can go 250 even 300K without any problems. Now ?
Like my Honda FIT, Honda said I can go 100K without Tune-up. but how many miles can it really last?? I dont know.
They ask for 5w20. I was like yeah right. it has been seeing nothing but 5w30. Soon Im gonna go up another level to 10w40. Im pretty sure my FIT will last longer than other FIT even when I beat the **** out of it every other day.
You can say thats because older engine will not try to squeeze 1000 HP outa 2 Liter displacement. but as tree huggers ask for "better and sometimes ridiculous MPG" figures. The engineers have to give something up. Engine longevity is one of them (just my opinion), why? Cuz most people change their cars every 3-5 years. They dont give a damn if the engine goes to hell after 100K miles. Used car buyers? They dont care either, cuz Used car is always a "risk", if the engine goes "bye bye" after they put another 10K miles on it. they just gonna blame the previous owner who sold him/her a piece of crap. No one will think of the oil might be the cause.
Last edited by nycgps; 10-26-2009 at 01:48 PM.
#332
Ah see, they've realised over here that they can then charge you $250 just in costs for the oil because it's 'Special Oil'........
#335
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Ash, at the back of the service book it tells the uk owners to change the oil every 12500mls or yearly, except if you do alot of town work or short journeys then change the oil every 6000mls. I would say most change the oil at 12500mls, not many people work on their own cars here in the uk, so it's down to the dealer yearly
dave
dave
#336
#337
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
You would be shocked to know the Mazda Dealer I worked at in Service for a while used a Castrol Synth blend oil at the equivalent of $8 a litre to the customer, until the owner (Dealer Principal) found out why his oil costs were so high, made us change to a 'cheaper" Dino oil, but still charged a higher price.....in other words you are not always sure what you get from a Dealers Bulk storage.
#338
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
a typical Toyota engine from the 80s-90s can go 250 even 300K without any problems
Oh, and here is a tidbit that may not have any meaning but i was driving my bosses C63 today and i was messing with the menus and such and it recommends Mobil 1 5W-40. No temp range, etc. Just 5W-40 across the board.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 10-26-2009 at 04:50 PM.
#339
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
If "start up" wear is an issue why did we not see this bearing wear or any wear in earlier rotaries, same parts, different 'thicker' oil.
BTW, I am not saying this wear IS cold start up related...
And G I think I have said enough on this issue, I think OD is going to do the Mods so, we will have to wait and see...
BTW, I am not saying this wear IS cold start up related...
And G I think I have said enough on this issue, I think OD is going to do the Mods so, we will have to wait and see...
#341
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
Other than just typical spark plugs, timing belt kind of thing, all 5 of them still runs before they moved on to new car. the least was I think 239K miles. one actually hit 297K miles. but it had tranny problem, its not worth fixing, so he sold it to junk yard and got 100 bux out of it
Oh, and here is a tidbit that may not have any meaning but i was driving my bosses C63 today and i was messing with the menus and such and it recommends Mobil 1 5W-40. No temp range, etc. Just 5W-40 across the board.
#343
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Join Date: Aug 2009
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If you have to agonize over an oil choice to get any motor to last more than 50K miles, there's something really wrong with the design. But I knew that when I bought it, and I bought it anyway.
Last edited by TZ250; 10-26-2009 at 11:34 PM. Reason: ADD
#344
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
There is actually more truth to this than you might think. One of my kids drives a '93 Nissan with 230,000 miles and it runs perfectly. I bought it new in 1993. One new clutch, routine maintenance, and lots of missed oil changes in the middle years. Always ran on cheap Pennzoil or whatever conventional 10w-30. Changes averaged about every 7.500 or so. Now burns about 1/2 qt. between changes.
#345
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
I don't doubt that mileage can be acheived, I have owned two Honda's with well over 200,000 miles but they were meticulously maintained and cared for and even then they had some problems although nothing major. Both my Maxima's lasted 150k or so each without issue but to say Toyota's average that mileage or that amount of mileage is "typical" or that mileage like that comes without problems is just false.
but its not hard to see Toyotas (talking about 80s-90s Toyotas) go at least 200K without any major issue.
#347
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
I might consider it later....
Remember though, the Series II does not have a Rear By Pass Valve in their new Oiling set up...hang on I am lying...NO..Hang On I am Wrong...No hang on , I am right..
Yeah, they have NO Rear By Pass Vale, but an OCV Oil Control Valve which also controls the Higher Oil Pressure to the two EMOP's...but I am also wrong there...
the Valve sits externally at the Top Left of front timing cover....wrong again!
BTW: Fitted my 2 new Oil Cooler Mesh splash screens today, Summer is coming fast.... over 30 C by the end of this week.
I will monitor Coolant temps, I wish I could monitor Oil Temps Too, I should ask PhillipM from the UK on his set up for Oil Temps..
Remember though, the Series II does not have a Rear By Pass Valve in their new Oiling set up...hang on I am lying...NO..Hang On I am Wrong...No hang on , I am right..
Yeah, they have NO Rear By Pass Vale, but an OCV Oil Control Valve which also controls the Higher Oil Pressure to the two EMOP's...but I am also wrong there...
the Valve sits externally at the Top Left of front timing cover....wrong again!
BTW: Fitted my 2 new Oil Cooler Mesh splash screens today, Summer is coming fast.... over 30 C by the end of this week.
I will monitor Coolant temps, I wish I could monitor Oil Temps Too, I should ask PhillipM from the UK on his set up for Oil Temps..
#349
Ayrton Senna Forever
I might consider it later....
Remember though, the Series II does not have a Rear By Pass Valve in their new Oiling set up...hang on I am lying...NO..Hang On I am Wrong...No hang on , I am right..
Yeah, they have NO Rear By Pass Vale, but an OCV Oil Control Valve which also controls the Higher Oil Pressure to the two EMOP's...but I am also wrong there...
the Valve sits externally at the Top Left of front timing cover....wrong again!
BTW: Fitted my 2 new Oil Cooler Mesh splash screens today, Summer is coming fast.... over 30 C by the end of this week.
I will monitor Coolant temps, I wish I could monitor Oil Temps Too, I should ask PhillipM from the UK on his set up for Oil Temps..
Remember though, the Series II does not have a Rear By Pass Valve in their new Oiling set up...hang on I am lying...NO..Hang On I am Wrong...No hang on , I am right..
Yeah, they have NO Rear By Pass Vale, but an OCV Oil Control Valve which also controls the Higher Oil Pressure to the two EMOP's...but I am also wrong there...
the Valve sits externally at the Top Left of front timing cover....wrong again!
BTW: Fitted my 2 new Oil Cooler Mesh splash screens today, Summer is coming fast.... over 30 C by the end of this week.
I will monitor Coolant temps, I wish I could monitor Oil Temps Too, I should ask PhillipM from the UK on his set up for Oil Temps..
#350
Registered
iTrader: (3)
you are exactly right---dont do mods without due diligence. It is easy to miss a little detail that ends up being important.
All this discovery is very interesting and is opening up a very good discussion. But one step at the time has to be done.
For instance
1- what is the oil pressures of the 09? Did the changes actually cause the pressure to go up---probably --but we really dont know? What does the 09 manual say the oil pressure spec should be?
2- reinstall an oil pressure gauge on my car since I now have a new engine
3- f/u with in dept conversation with Paul and Rick E about this issue.
OD
All this discovery is very interesting and is opening up a very good discussion. But one step at the time has to be done.
For instance
1- what is the oil pressures of the 09? Did the changes actually cause the pressure to go up---probably --but we really dont know? What does the 09 manual say the oil pressure spec should be?
2- reinstall an oil pressure gauge on my car since I now have a new engine
3- f/u with in dept conversation with Paul and Rick E about this issue.
OD