5w20 vs 5w30
#51
Smoking turbo yay
But heh, if you have UOA to back up your decision, that would be fine.
I recently did a 2k-mile change, but that's more because I had to do the brake and clutch lines, and that required me to jack the car up, so why the heck not. 5W-20 also is for cheap when on sale.
As long as you keep on the top of the maintenance, that doesn't sound too strange.
If you want to talk about the bad reputation the RX-8 has, I think a lot of built up before coil issues were apparent, and those alone probably killed a bunch of good engines.
#52
Registered
7k-mile change is IMO pretty long for conventional and still stretching a bit for synthetic, especially considering each oil change only catches half of the oil.
But heh, if you have UOA to back up your decision, that would be fine.
I recently did a 2k-mile change, but that's more because I had to do the brake and clutch lines, and that required me to jack the car up, so why the heck not. 5W-20 also is for cheap when on sale.
But heh, if you have UOA to back up your decision, that would be fine.
I recently did a 2k-mile change, but that's more because I had to do the brake and clutch lines, and that required me to jack the car up, so why the heck not. 5W-20 also is for cheap when on sale.
#53
Registered
#54
Registered
I use Royal Purple's synthetic with their oil filter and filter mags. Never had a UOA, though that might be worth doing and sharing. I'm due for another change now, and just had an autoX event the other weekend. I just glanced at Blackstone's website. Anyone have experience on what kind of test to have performed? Or maybe there's a better company?
Get a standard oil oil kit and when filling out the sheet, ask for TBN and TAN in the comments. Both are $10 extras but will tell you active additive (TBN) and acid level (TAN)
#55
Registered
Noted!
#58
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
5w30 is recommended in the Mazda RX-8 owners manuals in ANZ and other warmer countries.
#59
Registered
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
Everyone should read this. It's ridiculously long but I went out to the garage and drained the brand new oil out of my wife's vw right after reading it.
Everyone should read this. It's ridiculously long but I went out to the garage and drained the brand new oil out of my wife's vw right after reading it.
#60
Smoking turbo yay
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
Everyone should read this. It's ridiculously long but I went out to the garage and drained the brand new oil out of my wife's vw right after reading it.
Everyone should read this. It's ridiculously long but I went out to the garage and drained the brand new oil out of my wife's vw right after reading it.
Take it with a grain of salt.
#61
Registered
I've been reading through some posts of the people questioning his methods recently and I do agree with some of their points. It's not a real world comparison to an oils ability to protect. Unfortunately it's the only somewhat real test that I've been able to find on an oils capability.
#62
Water Foul
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
Everyone should read this. It's ridiculously long but I went out to the garage and drained the brand new oil out of my wife's vw right after reading it.
Everyone should read this. It's ridiculously long but I went out to the garage and drained the brand new oil out of my wife's vw right after reading it.
Spec Miata guys have totally drunk the Kool-Aide. They run Quaker State UD 0W20 just to the bottom of the dipsstick and change it after every race. More HP and OUTSTANDING wear protection!
#63
Smoking turbo yay
What oil would that be? Pretty much no oil sucks so badly it can't protect an engine for at least one cycle.
Spec Miata guys have totally drunk the Kool-Aide. They run Quaker State UD 0W20 just to the bottom of the dipsstick and change it after every race. More HP and OUTSTANDING wear protection!
Spec Miata guys have totally drunk the Kool-Aide. They run Quaker State UD 0W20 just to the bottom of the dipsstick and change it after every race. More HP and OUTSTANDING wear protection!
As for the Miata guys... Is there any UOA to see? Would be an interesting set of real life data to confirm if this testing is accurate.
#64
Water Foul
That's the thing, I really don't see the point of overthinking this on a family car that's not driven hard. I can imagine most family cars aren't driven past 4k RPM, if that. Even the cheapest oil from Walmart would be okay in that case, provided it's changed at the recommended intervals.
As for the Miata guys... Is there any UOA to see? Would be an interesting set of real life data to confirm if this testing is accurate.
As for the Miata guys... Is there any UOA to see? Would be an interesting set of real life data to confirm if this testing is accurate.
.
Last edited by Steve Dallas; 06-10-2019 at 08:54 PM.
#65
Registered
What oil would that be? Pretty much no oil sucks so badly it can't protect an engine for at least one cycle.
Spec Miata guys have totally drunk the Kool-Aide. They run Quaker State UD 0W20 just to the bottom of the dipsstick and change it after every race. More HP and OUTSTANDING wear protection!
Spec Miata guys have totally drunk the Kool-Aide. They run Quaker State UD 0W20 just to the bottom of the dipsstick and change it after every race. More HP and OUTSTANDING wear protection!
I own an rx-8. I'm a little ocd with maintenance.
#66
RX-Heaven
iTrader: (6)
I typically use conventional 5W30 oil in my 8's. I have been using Toyota brand motor oil and it has treated me well in my 8's. I had switched over to 10W30 on my last engine shortly before it lost compression in the rear rotor. Though I feel it was no fault of the oil's. In my RX-7's I always use Castrol GTX 20W50 and have had excellent results with that oil and weight. The 7 did call for 20W50 however.
#67
Registered
Oil viscosity is a function of temperature and determined at 100C. Therefore, allowing the car to warm, i.e. say from 70 to ~180F, allows the oil to reach stated viscosity and be most effective. Not doing so increases pressures and decreases effectiveness. Alternately, one can drive "easy" keep rpms low for 7-8 mins....until oil temp, & viscosity, reach normal operating temps. Then zoom... zoom...
#68
Smoking turbo yay
That's what people are saying, don't idle to warm up, but also take it easy until the car is fully warm.
Idle to warm up is a waste of fuel on any fuel injected vehicles, piston or rotary.
And the number in front of W indicates cold flow viscosity. Granted, it will still be thicker than hot, but a 5 oil at room temperature is still thinner than 20 oil at room temperature.
Idle to warm up is a waste of fuel on any fuel injected vehicles, piston or rotary.
And the number in front of W indicates cold flow viscosity. Granted, it will still be thicker than hot, but a 5 oil at room temperature is still thinner than 20 oil at room temperature.
Last edited by UnknownJinX; 06-18-2019 at 05:30 PM.
#69
Water Foul
With all due respect...nonsense.
Oil viscosity is a function of temperature and determined at 100C. Therefore, allowing the car to warm, i.e. say from 70 to ~180F, allows the oil to reach stated viscosity and be most effective. Not doing so increases pressures and decreases effectiveness. Alternately, one can drive "easy" keep rpms low for 7-8 mins....until oil temp, & viscosity, reach normal operating temps. Then zoom... zoom...
Oil viscosity is a function of temperature and determined at 100C. Therefore, allowing the car to warm, i.e. say from 70 to ~180F, allows the oil to reach stated viscosity and be most effective. Not doing so increases pressures and decreases effectiveness. Alternately, one can drive "easy" keep rpms low for 7-8 mins....until oil temp, & viscosity, reach normal operating temps. Then zoom... zoom...
#71
Water Foul
Regardless, running over-pressure when cold is not much of a problem, as it is engineered into the design of the engine. Letting it warm up for 30 seconds and driving casually until hot is perfectly fine, unless boosted or other considerations warrant more caution.
#72
Grand Chancellor
Isn't there a high mileage thread where someone hit 200k miles on nothing but 5w20? No Sohn, no premix, ... dealer serviced. Been reading a bunch of oil/premix thread of late just as a refresher for myself. Maybe after 13 years of ownership with almost 90k km, I might want to try something different. After reading those threads I came away concluding..... that there are no conclusions on what concoctions or methods extend the service life of the Renesis. Therefore I am sticking to my current method of reduced OCI with 5w30 Castrol GTX.
#73
Registered
iTrader: (1)
1 car hitting some mileage on some regiment is not remarkable. We have many threads about cars that didn't. It's a game of odds, every decision should be made so it increases your odds, but in the end there are no guarantees. That's why premixing, to me, is a no-brainer. The worst case is it does nothing, the best case is you get some extra miles out of your engine. The cost is minimal.
#74
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
Loki - same reco. Premixing seems logical and has been done effectively in RX-8s with no impact to other systems. The Series 2 had a boost in oil injection points AND more oil output so it seems logical that: (1) premixing increases lubrication in the engine and (2) having good oil quality improves all-around engine lubrication. I'm running 5W30 with very frequent OCIs (1000-3000 miles) using WalMart SuperTech 5W30 - API SN-rated.
#75
Registered
Well said. If the series 1 engine had enough lube by design, they wouldn’t have upgraded the series 2.
It makes sense logically to increase lubrication inside the chambers to help extend seal life as much as possible until the inevitable does happen.
Im using 10w40 in Florida. Ran started fine and produced good used oil analysis even during winter with the same oil and starting it at 30F in the morning.
Plenty of rotary engine builders suggest using the thicker oil after they’ve seen may too many premature bearing wear.
It makes sense logically to increase lubrication inside the chambers to help extend seal life as much as possible until the inevitable does happen.
Im using 10w40 in Florida. Ran started fine and produced good used oil analysis even during winter with the same oil and starting it at 30F in the morning.
Plenty of rotary engine builders suggest using the thicker oil after they’ve seen may too many premature bearing wear.