416to212

I'd like to do the whole 30,000 mile maintenance by myself and would like to know if there is one definitive thread that says what work needs to be done and what fluids need to be bought.

But in the meantime please help me complete my list of things to do and the type of fluid/part to use and how much - this is basically a shopping list for a DIY 30K home mechanic. Please post your opinion and I'll keep this OP updated. But please let's not fight about our favorite fluids! LOL

Must:
Replace Oil and Filter Change - 5w30 (~5 quarts)
Replace Transmission Fluid - Redline MT90 (~ 2 quarts)
Replace Differential Fluid - Redline 75w-90 (~2 quarts)
Replace air filter.
Replace Spark Plugs - NGK RE7CL and RE9BT (2 each)
(Dielectric Grease the wire boot and Anti Seize the plug threads)
Replace in-cabin Air Filter
Brake Fluid Flush - DOT 4 (~ 1 liter)
Check Brake pads
Rotate Tires
Clean Battery Terminals
Clean Engine Bay - Bottle of Simple Green
Lube locks and hinges - spray white lithium grease

Optional:
Coolant Flush - Distilled water and coolant (~5 jugs distilled water / ~4 jugs 100% coolant)
Replace ignition coils.

Note:
If you are doing all the work as a home mechanic, keep receipts for warranty and resale purposes.

ferg

lol, you really dont need to do all that in 30k, just spark plugs and oil and air filter, coolant dont need to be change for like a really long long time. transmission is at 60k i think

but do this
Check Brake pads
Rotate Tires
Clean Battery Terminals
Clean Engine Bay - Bottle of Simple Green
Lube locks and hinges - spray white lithium grease
__________________

Cam

iTrader: (1)

I dont think the coolant flush is necessary, everything else is fine, except you only need 2 quarts (each)for a for a trans and diff change

wankelhead

I recently did all that you have listed, except coolant and brake flush - I will be doing those soon but not rushed since not really necessary at 30k unless you have problems. In addition to your list IMO I would replce your ignition colis and spark plug wires if running on originals.

Icemark

actually a good rule of thumb for clutch and brake fluid is every 24 months or 24K miles, whichever comes first.

More so if you are in a wet or humid climates. If the brake or clutch fluid is not clear or at least amber (it should not be dark at all) then it is probably ready to be changed. Dark brake fluid indicates water in the fluid which means lowered boiling points.

AE92

iTrader: (1)

ALSO make sure you keep all your receipts of your parts and materials purchases in case of any "warranty proof" needed of service since your doing it at home.

rx8cited

How do your recharge the filter?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Dielectric Grease on the wire boot and anti-seize on the spark plug threads

steveizzle007

Only filters i have ever used were k&n and i would assume it is the same process for the oem filter in the 8, someone be sure to correct me if i am wrong. So just search it on you tube, I'm sure someone has put up a video about it, that way i don't have to type it all lol

shazy

wtf does this mean?
75W90 NS
This GL-5-type geal oil doesn't contain the friction modifiers for limited-slip hypoid differentials. This makes the transmission synchronizers come to equal speeds more quickly, allowing faster shifting and much easier low-temperature shifting. Can also be used in racing limited-slip differentials where weak spring design causes too much wheel spin.

What I put in bold (other than the title name) is that bad? Does that mean it's not supposed to be used in our differentials? Please educate the fellow ignorant

rx8cited

Red Line Oil said 75W90 is better for our car's LSD than 75W90 NS

sobamaflyer

Hoping not to hi-jack your thread but I'm in the same boat (ish) and searching leads to more questions than answers. On the one hand I've bought my first used car in more than a decade and happy to have saved a nice chunk of $, but on the other I find myself not knowing it's full maintenance history.

I've got 33k miles on my car (bought w/ 32k, I know they changed the oil min. at the dealer) and will replace the Oil, Tranny & Diff Fluid at 35k (driveline fluids can't hurt, aren't terribly expensive and aren't hard to do so why not know). Has a consensus been reached on whether Redline will do harm to a 85% daily driven 8 that has lots of short trips (full warm up and as much redline as the law allows but still short). Should Mobil1 be used instead?

My other question is about the Coils, Plugs & Wires. Above it seems people suggest changing only the plugs, other threads say coils are toast at 20k, more other threads say 60k and they are still fine? Sure I could just replace all 3 at this point but is it a waste of about $250? Is there a way to tell if maybe the coils/wires/plugs were replaced by the P.O. (or the dealer when he traded [doubtful but?]).

I'll pull the plugs when I change the fluids to see what shape they are in but there seems to be such a range of opinions that I find myself torn. Half way plan to order at least plugs and do them with the maintenance regardless but w/ a new little person in the house I hardly have $ to just waste when not necessary.

FTR - I have no reason to believe there is anything wrong w/ my car, she seems to run smooth and fine as far as I can tell, there are gearbox noises and engine noises that my searches indicate are all normal (my S2k had similar sounds, they aren't exactly isolation tanks ) but I find no hesitation, my gas mileage is ~16mpg, loving the 8 overall.

Opinions and input appreciated.

jsjjr

iTrader: (1)

sobamaflyer,

I'd just do the routine requirements for the mileage you have. If after your cursory inspection you feel doubtful about a particular area, go ahead and change it. I would def follow the manufacturer's rec's for maintenance..you can log onto Mazda.com and print out a maintenance schedule..unless there's a problem, then there really isn't a problem.

sobamaflyer

I generally agree with the idea of following the maint. schedule, and I have in about a dozen different cars before. Maybe it's the rotary mill under the hood or too much reading on this board that has me wondering if there are areas (such as the aforementioned coils) that need extra attention?

As with most I'm interested in longevity here, I really need 5-6 years out of this car.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

Heck, I just did everything on the OP's "must" list at 20k (albeit 4 years old now since manufacture), and it's running better than ever.