kanie12

Hi!

When i floor the pedal and get between 6000rpms and 7000rpms theres seems to be a stutter/lag in the acceleration. I can clearly see it on the speedo. What could be causing this? I have to mention that i'm driving with spiked winter tires so maybe the antispin system is somehow involved in this stutter? Im changing to summer tires soon. Could it also be the coils?

MrSuicideDoor

what're you t-t-t-t-talking about?

Razz1

Yep could be the tires and traction control. The light would flash but you have to be quick to catch a glimpse of it.

Wait till ya get summer tires. Same problem then check the CAT.

When did you have your plugs changed?

therm8

how many miles?

I'm developing a hiccup around 6000rpm. I'm coming up on time to change the plugs again, and since I have almost 75k on the odo I'm changing the coils (on original ones now) and wires as well. I'm treating it like a big tune up. My money's on plugs for you. (edit: didn't see Razz mentioned plugs, but I agree )

mysql101

swap your leading coils with trailing, and see if your problem changes to poor drivability moving from a dead stop. that should help diagnose without spending anything

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

Keep aware of a possible APV problem.

kanie12

Yesterday the car was nearly impossible to start and when it actually did start there was a strange tik tik tik sound comming from the engine .. but no cel luckily. I went to the dealer and they found out that one spark plug(nr. 4) was loose and that i need new wires. They fitted the spark plug but its still abit loose. No more sound though. They had to order new wires/plugs so im bringing the car back in a week.

Does anyone recommend replacing the oem coils aswell? If so which brand can u recommend? Should i stick with the oem wires plugs since they're fitting new ones?

Just ordered ACT prolite clutch and ACT Prolite Flywheel Mazda and ACT Extreme Street/Strip Clutch. When i get my new summer tires(Falken-452) and the clutch is fitted im going to dyno the car since my warranty ends in july. Hopefully the new wires/plugs and summer tires will end the problem.

kanie12

APV?

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

I am assuming you meant that you ordered a new ACT Prolite flywheel and Xtreme Duty clutch set. I would strongly suggest that you, instead, get the Street Duty clutch kit. The Xtreme version is rated for 440 pounds of torque, which equates to roughly 660 h.p. I had that clutch and it was a bitch to drive every day. It also tore apart my clutch pedal bracket. The good news was that having my bracket pull apart allowed me to warn others and it turned out that many of their problems were the result of the same thing. Bottom line; unless you are going to put F/I or nitrous on the car the factory clutch ratings are fine. The stock clutch is good for about 220tq/300-320hp. Don't over do it out of misinformation.

rg200amp

kanie12

Thx. I changed my order to street clutch. Also ordered Agency pulley

kanie12

Does anyone have pics of how and where the coils are located ?

mysql101

follow the spark plug wires. They travel up from the engine to the coils (located just below and to the right of the intake manifold). All you need to do is unplug the spark plug wires, then remove one screw/bolt from each coil to remove them. There are 4 total.

kanie12

hmm I wish there was some pics. How do i unplug the spark wires, just pull them gently off?

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

We'll get into the APV another time. If you can't wait, then take a look around the site. I am lining up some out-of-state installs and I am a bit more focused on that right now.

Be cool pulling those stock wires off and make sure to note where each wire goes. When I did chrism's coil swap for him I actually pulled off the tower from one of the old coils. I would just swap in new wires, coils, and plugs, all at the same time if you have the dough. Also, make sure you use WD-40, or similar, to lube the hold-down studs for the coils. It ain't too hard to snap the studs if there is a bit of rust/corrosion on them.