Rx-elf

Hello guys. The guy told me that he started the car and switched it off after 100 meters, probably cold.
What i thought..
It's not flood. (Did try to unflood wont start)
Not the fuel pump. (checked the pump has electricity as well as the lines in the front spray petrol)
Not the starter-battery. (starter turns fine with booster connected)
The car dosn't have a catalytic converter.
Checked if it mixed coolant in the oil nothing BUT the coolant has something inside yellow parts and something black like oil/grease.
Tomorrow am going to do a compression test.
Didn't check coils/wires/sparks.
What i think in the end we are going for a change/rebuild.

Any thoughts?
Thanks for reading.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I think it's flooded due to failed ignition.

Keep in mind that you can deflood the engine, and if it's got failing ignition, battery, starter, or compression, then it can easily just re-flood again when you try to start. On the surface, it will seem like nothing has changed, but it's doing something, you just haven't fixed the failure that is causing the flooding yet.

Keep in mind that flooding isn't a problem by itself. In order to flood, something else HAD to have failed. A perfectly healthy car will never flood, even when shut off cold. If you don't fix the reason for the flood, you aren't actually making any progress.

Rx-elf

Thanks Riwwp tomorrow i will change the ignition and try again.. I will keep you up to date.

stinksause

iTrader: (5)

Disconnect ess, pull and dry leading plugs. Crank for 15 secs with plugs out and ess disconnected with wot.

reisntall plugs, dont reinstall sensor yet.

Get some 2 stroke and suck it through the maint ports for 10 seconds each port with throttle closed. (Tube to maint port and the other end to 2 stroke can)

Replug maint ports, replug sensor.

Attempt to start car. Itll smoke a bit

If it doesn't start, you have something seriously wrong.

Don't be alarmed if you get a CEL, it will go away after 1-2 drive cycles.

Karack

this usually happens on 4 port automatics when they are started cold and run without warming them up.

the 4 ports are usually carboned up quite well, starting the car and running it rich then shutting it off and letting it sit for a day or so unsuspecting that anything is wrong... the seals stick in the rotors and compression is lost giving you a completely freewheeling engine. if it sounds like a starter spinning and not much of anything else this is probably the case.

if so you need to remove the plugs and crank the engine to air it out, then pump some 2 stroke oil or MMO into the lead holes, a few teaspoons worth for each rotor, reinstall the plugs and crank it for a few seconds then let it sit for a few hours. after the soaking time has passed try to start it by alternating the throttle on and off as you would with deflooding a car normally.


even if you forget to warm up the car you still have a bit of time to go and restart it and finish up the warmup procedure before any real harm is done. remember that carbon can fill the voids between the seals and rotors when cold, which will bind them. once an engine is warmed up and then cooled off the metals automatically contract which leaves room for movement. even the older RX7 engines would do this periodically when severely carboned up. i've seen 6 port engines also lose compression due to semi stuck seals, so don't give up hope.

Rx-elf

Thanks for the support guys.
i finally started the car. changed plugs and wires.. it has a really weak starter and the car wont start when hot many times shuts down when stopping.. we are going for an engine change.
Btw the car has been driven by a girl that dosnt know a thing about rotarys, so i expect carbon build up.

Karack

the automatic engines need a decarb several times a year, i suspect it's too far beyond that point now though.