We are hopeless!!!!
#26
Originally Posted by tajabaho1
We are so hopeless........there is no way we gonna be any fast at all......I can just feel it......even if we buy supercharger/turbo, interceptor-X/tranny cooler/exhaust/intake/blahblah
we still run crappy.......not even nearing 280hp!!!
we still run crappy.......not even nearing 280hp!!!
A modified RX-8 Auto will out perform a stock MT RX-8 with the right mods. The key is the right mods. The odd prejudice against Autos, is usually from people that don't really know any better and or just like the chance to bash.
Re-Amemiya and R-magic in Japan, both have RX-8 Autos (these are famous tuners mind you) and ECU flashes to take off the speed and rev limit on an Auto.
You can get an ATF cooler and new AT fluid with the ECU flash and you will see a major performance increase. Also, a Racing Beat ram air duct or Odula ram air duct would help some more....
Mazda detuned the 4AT because of the fear that the auto tranny would not hold up. With the ATF cooler and new fluid w/ ECU flash, I often go to 8,000 rpm and have done above 140 mph with ZERO problems.
A supercharger holds more promise for the AT RX-8 because of the torque converter stall limit, which is at 2,500 rpm on take off. You can get around the stall limit by doing a neutral slam, and launch at say 5,000 rpms, but the life of your auto tranny will be short lived. Superchargers don't have any turbo lag or boost lag, and boost is instant.
Blitz has a SC for the Auto and so will Pettit.
A properly tuned turbo, providing boost in the 2,500 rpm range, would work for the RX-8 AT as well.
If you are talking about drag racing your RX-8 Auto than you will need to raise the torque converter stall limit. So far, this would be done by getting a customized torque converter, though there is talk of an auto tranny PCM flash or some such tricks. An Auto would arguably be better for drag racing, once such a mod was done. Also the RX-8 Auto has a torque advantage over the MT RX-8 at the same rpm.
Last edited by sosonic; 04-13-2007 at 01:04 AM.
#28
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: around orlando
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"With the ATF cooler and new fluid w/ ECU flash, I often go to 8,000 rpm and have done above 140 mph with ZERO problems."
Sosonic!.....what ECU and ATF cooler did you use? and for that matter, what type of car do you have, a 4AT or 6AT?
Sosonic!.....what ECU and ATF cooler did you use? and for that matter, what type of car do you have, a 4AT or 6AT?
#29
FI by Pettit-BHR-Cobb AP
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by Mspeedpro
i dont even know why they make the rx8 in an auto, i really dont.
it totally goes against the essence of the rx8.
it totally goes against the essence of the rx8.
#30
Destroying Threads
Thread Starter
Dont get me wrong, I love my AT 8, but I seriously want more power out of it
now Sosonic, did u just get the flash? or u used a new ECU
now Sosonic, did u just get the flash? or u used a new ECU
#34
These cars are nowhere near as bad as people make them out to be in automatic form, just because a stick might be your preference, doesn't always make it the better choice, every car and car owner need is different. Now enough bs bashing, let's get back on topic please
Last edited by canaryrx8; 04-13-2007 at 09:21 PM.
#35
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[QUOTE=sosonic]A modified RX-8 Auto will out perform a stock MT RX-8 with the right mods. The key is the right mods. The odd prejudice against Autos, is usually from people that don't really know any better and or just like the chance to bash.
Re-Amemiya and R-magic in Japan, both have RX-8 Autos (these are famous tuners mind you) and ECU flashes to take off the speed and rev limit on an Auto.
You can get an ATF cooler and new AT fluid with the ECU flash and you will see a major performance increase. Also, a Racing Beat ram air duct or Odula ram air duct would help some more....
Mazda detuned the 4AT because of the fear that the auto tranny would not hold up. With the ATF cooler and new fluid w/ ECU flash, I often go to 8,000 rpm and have done above 140 mph with ZERO problems.
O.K. I just want to make sure I clarify... If I get an ECU flash to rev up to 8000-8500, I need a Tranny cooler and better tranny fluid... Is that all I need? The tranny can hold up to that??? Where was the AT cooler mounted again???
Re-Amemiya and R-magic in Japan, both have RX-8 Autos (these are famous tuners mind you) and ECU flashes to take off the speed and rev limit on an Auto.
You can get an ATF cooler and new AT fluid with the ECU flash and you will see a major performance increase. Also, a Racing Beat ram air duct or Odula ram air duct would help some more....
Mazda detuned the 4AT because of the fear that the auto tranny would not hold up. With the ATF cooler and new fluid w/ ECU flash, I often go to 8,000 rpm and have done above 140 mph with ZERO problems.
O.K. I just want to make sure I clarify... If I get an ECU flash to rev up to 8000-8500, I need a Tranny cooler and better tranny fluid... Is that all I need? The tranny can hold up to that??? Where was the AT cooler mounted again???
#36
Hey guys, yall should search. There is a couple of threads on ATF cooler, AT fluid, and ECU flashes.
Its going to be hard to for people to go my route. I have Re-Amemiya ATF cooler, Redline AT fluid, and Re-Amemiya ECU flash. My ATF cooler is custom mounted in the center, as I have 2 oil coolers on my 4AT RX-8. I also have the Odula ram duct.
My next 2 mods will be Agency Power pulley, in the mail, and Autoexe Exhaust (heard good things about their low end increase for NA RX-8s).
Note- My understanding is that 60mm to 60.5mm (2.3 to 2.4) exhaust piping with 90mm (~3in tips) are the right size for NA RX-8 Autos. Fat exhausts (I'm talking the pipe(s) before the muffler and not the tips) seem to cause you to lose power on NA RX-8. 70mm (2.75+) and up pipes seem better on turbo RX-8s.
Endgame- Yes, with a good auto tranny cooler and fluid, your tranny will hold up to 8000-8500.. Now neutral slams at over 4,000 rpms is something else, so please don't get this confuse with the custom torque converter issue. The auto tranny cooler is there to keep your auto tranny cool, not make it shock proof.
If you go the Re-Amemiya route (you can e-mail them in English), be prepared to pay. You can get an ATF cooler for not too much (search or people with them should post) and there is a DIY on it.
It appears Racing Beat does not want to do the AT ECU flash, but I'm not sure on this, so more people are going to have to demand it. Cobb tuning appears close to coming out with an ECU re-flasher so you guys should show your support for them http://www.cobbtuning.com/categories/?id=3106
http://www.cobbforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=74 (forum)
Its going to be hard to for people to go my route. I have Re-Amemiya ATF cooler, Redline AT fluid, and Re-Amemiya ECU flash. My ATF cooler is custom mounted in the center, as I have 2 oil coolers on my 4AT RX-8. I also have the Odula ram duct.
My next 2 mods will be Agency Power pulley, in the mail, and Autoexe Exhaust (heard good things about their low end increase for NA RX-8s).
Note- My understanding is that 60mm to 60.5mm (2.3 to 2.4) exhaust piping with 90mm (~3in tips) are the right size for NA RX-8 Autos. Fat exhausts (I'm talking the pipe(s) before the muffler and not the tips) seem to cause you to lose power on NA RX-8. 70mm (2.75+) and up pipes seem better on turbo RX-8s.
Endgame- Yes, with a good auto tranny cooler and fluid, your tranny will hold up to 8000-8500.. Now neutral slams at over 4,000 rpms is something else, so please don't get this confuse with the custom torque converter issue. The auto tranny cooler is there to keep your auto tranny cool, not make it shock proof.
If you go the Re-Amemiya route (you can e-mail them in English), be prepared to pay. You can get an ATF cooler for not too much (search or people with them should post) and there is a DIY on it.
It appears Racing Beat does not want to do the AT ECU flash, but I'm not sure on this, so more people are going to have to demand it. Cobb tuning appears close to coming out with an ECU re-flasher so you guys should show your support for them http://www.cobbtuning.com/categories/?id=3106
http://www.cobbforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=74 (forum)
Last edited by sosonic; 04-14-2007 at 03:52 AM.
#37
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[QUOTE=sosonic]
Endgame- Yes, with a good auto tranny cooler and fluid, your tranny will hold up to 8000-8500.. Now neutral slams at over 4,000 rpms is something else, so please don't get this confuse with the custom torque converter issue. The auto tranny cooler is there to keep your auto tranny cool, not make it shock proof.
Great. THX for the confirm!
Endgame- Yes, with a good auto tranny cooler and fluid, your tranny will hold up to 8000-8500.. Now neutral slams at over 4,000 rpms is something else, so please don't get this confuse with the custom torque converter issue. The auto tranny cooler is there to keep your auto tranny cool, not make it shock proof.
Great. THX for the confirm!
#38
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
Originally Posted by sosonic
Hey guys, yall should search. There is a couple of threads on ATF cooler, AT fluid, and ECU flashes.
+1
Guys search is your friend.
#40
Seriously.. FML..
Originally Posted by tajabaho1
I bought auto because this car I got for 23k out the door, for the manual I would have to pay 29k out the door....and this one was a new 07, not even a demo @.@
#43
WedsSport Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Canada, TO
Posts: 756
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I planned to mod my 8 in 2 years to reach to 200WHP. Then I am gonna to test with a MT.
Pathetic people always go from red light, but I prefer at least a course to race. I hate street racing. I ignore all those stupid challenge.
Now thanks to DEEDUX, I put my "Baby in car" yellow sign at the back of my car. Now it works and I enjoy my ride!
:>
Pathetic people always go from red light, but I prefer at least a course to race. I hate street racing. I ignore all those stupid challenge.
Now thanks to DEEDUX, I put my "Baby in car" yellow sign at the back of my car. Now it works and I enjoy my ride!
:>
#44
Originally Posted by therm8
Why does anyone feel it's necessary to go above 125mph? Even on most tracks, at the modified power levels we're looking at, 125 is about as fast as you'll get. Besides, 4spds must shift to 4th to get above that, and acceleration dies off severely. I'm more concerned with how fast I can get to 125, than whether or not I can go higher. And remember to keep those triple digits off the public streets.
So yeah...125+ is kinda needed to chase down that kind of monster on a track...you feel kind of helpless watching all that made up ground in the corners go right out the window as you wave goodbye...
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...67829043&hl=en
Thankfully TWS was a fairly twisty track...others around here are much higher speed and have lots of straights...
#45
Originally Posted by therm8
$4000 on the AT will net you higher straight line gains than the same $4000 on the MT. So up to a point, it makes more sense to spend the money on the AT.
#46
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by tajabaho1
^ aren't we all, strange, this is probably the only car that automatic tranny is cheaper than manual.........
#47
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
lol....this thread is hopeless not necessarily the car itself, my biggest draw back is with the 4 spd AT ( i have an 05...got it for a steal) now i might have a different opinion of the 6spd AT, but either way the biggest drawback is the shift lag in upshifts, down shifts "seem" a bit quicker but going from 4th to 2nd takes too much time for me, and please, fyi, i've been driving rotories for years now, I prefer MT but if the auto is fast enough I have no complaints (ex: a CVT) if they made a cvt instead of your standard AT than i would have no complaints. in fact i would take a 6 spd cvt over the 6spd MT. either way performance can be had, just follow previously posted suggestions, but i'm going to swap an entire drivetrain from a MT(engine back) and still pay less then what my car will sell for in open market...soooooo i really wont be able to speak on this for too long will be MT soon enough (note to the younger crowd, this isnt cheap...work hard and make money like me...lol)
#48
Umm...
1) CVT's while nifty are simply too weak to be used reliably in a high-performance situation. I stand to be corrected, however if it was truely possible it would have been done by at least one or two major mfg's or race teams. I can see the allure of thinking that CVT's "keep in the optimum powerband" and the whole "infinite ratio" argument however I seriously doubt they will ever be used for anything other than fuel economy. Direct drive is a better alternative.
2) I also highly doubt that you will ever see a 6-speed CVT as a CVT has an infinite ratio and no "speeds" to speak of.
3) Ditching the AT and going to MT (if I read your post right...kinda hard) is probably the best thing you can do...however I would recommend trading the car as doing the swap will probably be more money and alot tougher than you imagine.
1) CVT's while nifty are simply too weak to be used reliably in a high-performance situation. I stand to be corrected, however if it was truely possible it would have been done by at least one or two major mfg's or race teams. I can see the allure of thinking that CVT's "keep in the optimum powerband" and the whole "infinite ratio" argument however I seriously doubt they will ever be used for anything other than fuel economy. Direct drive is a better alternative.
2) I also highly doubt that you will ever see a 6-speed CVT as a CVT has an infinite ratio and no "speeds" to speak of.
3) Ditching the AT and going to MT (if I read your post right...kinda hard) is probably the best thing you can do...however I would recommend trading the car as doing the swap will probably be more money and alot tougher than you imagine.
#49
Bummed, but bring on OU!
I would call that HIGHLY suspect...equal money dropped on both cars will not translate to better performance on the AT OVER the MT at all. You would have a better percentage of GAIN as in you get UP TO the performance of an MT, but you would not surpass it if the MT dropped the same amount of money.
Gains, yes. That's what I said. % gain. No one said anything about being faster than an equally modded MT. But we settled that in a different thread.
Umm on the track...I came out of turn 1 and easily hit 100+...if you watch this video you'll see me shift into 4th and easily hit 120...at the same time the vette in front of me exited the corner and was easily going 120+...
So yeah...125+ is kinda needed to chase down that kind of monster on a track...you feel kind of helpless watching all that made up ground in the corners go right out the window as you wave goodbye...
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...67829043&hl=en
Thankfully TWS was a fairly twisty track...others around here are much higher speed and have lots of straights...
So yeah...125+ is kinda needed to chase down that kind of monster on a track...you feel kind of helpless watching all that made up ground in the corners go right out the window as you wave goodbye...
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...67829043&hl=en
Thankfully TWS was a fairly twisty track...others around here are much higher speed and have lots of straights...
And like I said, until an AT is heavily modded there's no need to worry about the 125mph limiter. Unless you just like doing stupid crap in public.
#50
This is true...the only time I ever need to go over 125 is when trying to chase down some ungodly HP-Beast on the track...all I need is 100 extra HP damnit...why is richard (AFSC) holding out on me! I get no love from him either...bah!