Twin-Screw grunt for Auto owners
#101
Originally Posted by Rich Rx-8
Yes low end torque is the only torque I care about. I want the torque that I currently get at 5000rpm's to blast in at 2000rpm's.
#103
owns a G35, RX-8 is hers.
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Hey guys, I'm not sure if this is my first post or not, normally I just lurk and lookup info about the car since I bought it for my GF and rarely get to drive it. I was browsing this thread since I have the 4AT for her and she's always telling me she wishes it was as fast as my G35.
Anyway, I wanted to try and clear up some of the confusion I'm reading here. Gearing aside, meaning all things being equal, torque is what you want to increase on the engine. I know you're all saying HP because its a rotary, but HP is a made up number. Seriously, HP is nothing more than an arbitrary rating about a horse pulling 330 lbs of coal 100 feet in a minute. That number is derived off ft-lbs of torque. This is why torque matters and not HP. HP = torque * rpm / 5252
I haven't had a chance to dyno the car yet, but from what I saw in the dyno sticky, the torque curve is extremely flat compared to most other engines. So your "big HP gains" are only if your torque increases are strictly in the high end. If your torque gains are in the low end of the power band, it'll appear like you haven't gained any HP.
With a Lysholm twin screw charger, they develop full boost pretty much off idle and keep that boost level consistent up to redline. I'm not talking about roots, they get too hot to keep boost levels up at higher rpm's. But if you can pump an even 6 psi from 2000-7500 rpm, you'll see an even increase in torque, which will translate to much better HP gains on the high end as well.
So in the end, you want torque, both low and high because it means more HP overall. An extra 40-50 ft-lbs of torque throughout the entire power curve would do nicely. If you're going to take a baseline of 100 ft-lbs at 7000 rpm, which would be 133 whp, at 150 ft-lbs at 7000 rpm, you're up to 200 whp. That's what you want and its good for any kind of gearing, wide or narrow.
I'm going to keep an eye on this thread. With a little luck, something will be available for the 4 porters by the time I'm done modding the suspension and exterior on this bad boy for her.
My only consideration is... will the stock tranny be ok with the extra power? Or will it need to be rebuilt by somebody like Lentech?
Anyway, I wanted to try and clear up some of the confusion I'm reading here. Gearing aside, meaning all things being equal, torque is what you want to increase on the engine. I know you're all saying HP because its a rotary, but HP is a made up number. Seriously, HP is nothing more than an arbitrary rating about a horse pulling 330 lbs of coal 100 feet in a minute. That number is derived off ft-lbs of torque. This is why torque matters and not HP. HP = torque * rpm / 5252
I haven't had a chance to dyno the car yet, but from what I saw in the dyno sticky, the torque curve is extremely flat compared to most other engines. So your "big HP gains" are only if your torque increases are strictly in the high end. If your torque gains are in the low end of the power band, it'll appear like you haven't gained any HP.
With a Lysholm twin screw charger, they develop full boost pretty much off idle and keep that boost level consistent up to redline. I'm not talking about roots, they get too hot to keep boost levels up at higher rpm's. But if you can pump an even 6 psi from 2000-7500 rpm, you'll see an even increase in torque, which will translate to much better HP gains on the high end as well.
So in the end, you want torque, both low and high because it means more HP overall. An extra 40-50 ft-lbs of torque throughout the entire power curve would do nicely. If you're going to take a baseline of 100 ft-lbs at 7000 rpm, which would be 133 whp, at 150 ft-lbs at 7000 rpm, you're up to 200 whp. That's what you want and its good for any kind of gearing, wide or narrow.
I'm going to keep an eye on this thread. With a little luck, something will be available for the 4 porters by the time I'm done modding the suspension and exterior on this bad boy for her.
My only consideration is... will the stock tranny be ok with the extra power? Or will it need to be rebuilt by somebody like Lentech?
Last edited by helldorado; 05-14-2006 at 10:39 PM.
#104
Shakezula, the Mic Rula
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Originally Posted by helldorado
My only consideration is... will the stock tranny be ok with the extra power? Or will it need to be rebuilt by somebody like Lentech?
#105
Originally Posted by cjkim
that's got to be the funniest post ever
Last edited by Rich Rx-8; 05-15-2006 at 06:41 PM.
#106
Originally Posted by snizzle
I have this same concern. Hymee, any idea what the stock tranny is rated at? I understand it was the same one used in the FD. A new tranny would significantly increase the cost of a project like this.
Last edited by Rich Rx-8; 05-15-2006 at 06:44 PM.
#108
Bummed, but bring on OU!
Originally Posted by yiksing
I second that, I think he would enjoy a diesel truck.... hahhaaaaa
How many diesel trucks do you know of that only put 125-130lb-ft of torque to the ground at 2000rpm...
In all reality the twin-screw supercharger will allow for more than that out of the 4 port at low rpm.
So, again, what's so funny?
Last edited by therm8; 05-15-2006 at 09:47 PM.
#110
Originally Posted by Rich Rx-8
Yes low end torque is the only torque I care about. I want the torque that I currently get at 5000rpm's to blast in at 2000rpm's.
Last edited by Rich Rx-8; 05-20-2006 at 11:52 AM.
#115
Originally Posted by snizzle
Sorry if I missed this but.... what engine management is Hymee using for this project?
However, we are not wedded to one management solution, and further down the track there is definate possibility of using other "cheaper" systems, including our own research into reflashing.
Cheers,
Hymee.
#118
Originally Posted by helldorado
This is why torque matters and not HP. HP = torque * rpm / 5252
you can apply force and do no work
Originally Posted by helldorado
So in the end, you want torque, both low and high because it means more HP overall.
Originally Posted by Rich Rx-8
Yes low end torque is the only torque I care about. I want the torque that I currently get at 5000rpm's to blast in at 2000rpm's.
i just would expect someone who seems to be so torque hungry to want a bit more torque than a stock 8's peak. you make it seem like the 8 turns into a torque monster at 5000 rpm. in reality, this car's power delivery is very linear.
ride blindfolded with ear plugs and let's see how different it really *feels*. you might feel it, but it won't be much
SORRY FOR THE HIJACK!! let's see some automatic work now. I've got a manual, but I'd still like to see some automatic aftermarket support.
#119
My car really does jump foward at 5k rpm's, it definetly doesn't feel linear at all in regards to the power delivery. There's literally nothing off the line then it takes off. I have an '05 AT.
#121
I don't buy Kool-Aid
Originally Posted by Rich Rx-8
My car really does jump foward at 5k rpm's, it definetly doesn't feel linear at all in regards to the power delivery. There's literally nothing off the line then it takes off. I have an '05 AT.
Originally Posted by MazdaRX8er
is the supercharger on sale yet??
#122
Another Filthy Mac User
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I'm looking forward to this being finished; the UK market 190s could do with a boost. Plus, unless things are changed, I think the simpler plumbing for the 4 port engine and lower rev limit might actually make this a really pleasant GT to drive day to day.
#124
'03 Dodge Viper
It's so frustrating waiting for this thing. I want it so much more than any other FI....and I'd get something else for my AT 8, but wait - there aren't any other options.
grrr
Wish there were something we could all do to help Hymee out and speed this stuff up.
grrr
Wish there were something we could all do to help Hymee out and speed this stuff up.