AT to MT swap
#152
i have an 04 4 speed AT(handed down) that recieved the recall engine swap.i wanna keep the engine but i want a MT..should i trade in for a MT or would an transmission swap be logical since i already have a new engine
#154
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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Yeah, at this point you have nothing to lose by doing your own work and swapping one over...you won't be devaluing the market value of the car or any such foolishness.
#156
Super Moderator
A little late Kevin.....but a big thanks to you from all of us @ the great RX-8 community for freely giving over your wealth of RE knowledge to those who are our own fixers- mechanics.
All of the many many owners you have personally rebuilt their RX-8's back to former glory...without price gouging have all held you in high regard.
Thanks for this thread too on converting an AT to Manual Transmission.
While I normally would never suggest such a swap because of all the different parts which must be renewed...it can be done as you have shown.
Cheers bud.
All of the many many owners you have personally rebuilt their RX-8's back to former glory...without price gouging have all held you in high regard.
Thanks for this thread too on converting an AT to Manual Transmission.
While I normally would never suggest such a swap because of all the different parts which must be renewed...it can be done as you have shown.
Cheers bud.
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Rock10 (04-24-2023)
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Rock10 (04-24-2023)
#158
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
I'm curious what all would need to be pulled to do a full PCM swap. From what I gather it would boil down to the following, enabling completion without the need for a dealer visit:
All from same 6MT donor:
-ECU
-ABS Module
-Immobilzer
-Ignition key harness
-Bound Keys (ideally two or more)
An option for me is to just keep my 4AT PCM, suppress the TCM communication CEL, and use my existing Adaptronic Select to control the APV and P2 injectors. That's my current plan, but a friend just informed me his 6MT was just totaled and I now have the option of a full blown "brain" transplant.
Thanks again, RR. It's taken me 7 years but I'm finally doing it.
#159
Auto to manual swapped
So I just finished dropping everything in, went to hit the key and nothing. Not sure what it is but it's doing almost what it would do when I had the car in any gear other than park. No click no nothing, just radio turns on and off. Pretty sure everything is wired up right, went ahead and skipped the clutch wiring because I can live without hitting the clutch to start
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
#160
You might need that clutch wiring. I have to push the clutch in to start, otherwise I get the same behavior as your symptoms... Not saying that's the only thing, but I think it's something...
#163
Auto to manual swapped
Finally have a fully funtional 6speed swapped rx8. The wiring from the ignition to the starter has to be done to bypass the lock. I wired mine directly together instead of hooking it up to the clutch. Many thanks for the info, couldn't have finished the swap without this thread
#165
Auto to manual swapped
#167
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
Apparently the MT PCM would not communicate with my AT's original ABS unit, so I tracked down the ABS unit that came from the same car as the MT PCM, hooked it up and it regained ABS/TCS functionality. There is probably a way around this, perhaps my dealer tech didn't know how to program the original ABS unit in my car to communicate with the new PCM for some reason. For me this was the easiest method, but I am sure there are other ways to resolve this issue.
I was about to go outside and swap the modules and it started raining here. I may have to wait till tomorrow to be 100% done with this swap.
Thanks again for this awesome post!
Shell
#169
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
For others that have successfully done this conversion have you noticed throttle overrun kicking in when you have the clutch pedal depressed and the car in gear stationary at idle?
I've noticed a periodic rise above 1300 RPM then overrun kicks in and it settles down to 800 rpm to rise again... rinse and repeat... AFRs look like an sine wave between 20 and 14.7.
Pretty sure I've ruled out my clutch switch as a potential source... Will be taking a look at my neutral switch on the tranny next.
I've noticed a periodic rise above 1300 RPM then overrun kicks in and it settles down to 800 rpm to rise again... rinse and repeat... AFRs look like an sine wave between 20 and 14.7.
Pretty sure I've ruled out my clutch switch as a potential source... Will be taking a look at my neutral switch on the tranny next.
#171
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
I'm assuming I'll be fine with inspection... All readiness tests have passed. There is a discrepancy between VINs though as the dealer kept the original VIN on the 6MT ECU so now I have my stamped VIN and the ECU reported VIN (which are obviously different).
I do have a mileage discrepancy too between the two clusters but I plan on going in for inspection with the AT cluster installed (which matches reported mileage).
When I sell I'll disclose the swap and VIN difference... having (assumedly gone through inspection beforehand) I should be able to assure the buyer that it won't be a problem.
I'll give them both clusters and make that their problem to deal with. Perhaps leave the AT cluster installed with instructions on how they can install the MT one (at their own risk).
But none of that has anything to do with the problem I'm trying to figure out. I want a nice steady idle regardless of clutch / gear state.
I do have a mileage discrepancy too between the two clusters but I plan on going in for inspection with the AT cluster installed (which matches reported mileage).
When I sell I'll disclose the swap and VIN difference... having (assumedly gone through inspection beforehand) I should be able to assure the buyer that it won't be a problem.
I'll give them both clusters and make that their problem to deal with. Perhaps leave the AT cluster installed with instructions on how they can install the MT one (at their own risk).
But none of that has anything to do with the problem I'm trying to figure out. I want a nice steady idle regardless of clutch / gear state.
#172
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
Have ruled out overrun kicking in. Moving it up to 1600 doesn't affect when it cuts.
Load jumps from about 12.6 to 13.3 when you go in gear. Oddly enough I don't see the PCM reporting any change in the neutral / in gear indicator.
I haven't gotten underneath it yet to trace wires for the neutral switch on the transmission but I did find that lowering my idle down to 750 (maps A,B,C,D,F,G) and E to 100 (I don't think E really matters here) did the trick.
It still jumps up an elusive 300-400 RPM when I go in gear but I guess the difference in load between 1200 and 1300 is sufficient for whatever triggers the fuel cut to not kick in.
There's got to be a table somewhere that controls this jump but it isn't exposed in MEP.
If things hold steady after the next couple drive cycles I'll probably just move along.
Load jumps from about 12.6 to 13.3 when you go in gear. Oddly enough I don't see the PCM reporting any change in the neutral / in gear indicator.
I haven't gotten underneath it yet to trace wires for the neutral switch on the transmission but I did find that lowering my idle down to 750 (maps A,B,C,D,F,G) and E to 100 (I don't think E really matters here) did the trick.
It still jumps up an elusive 300-400 RPM when I go in gear but I guess the difference in load between 1200 and 1300 is sufficient for whatever triggers the fuel cut to not kick in.
There's got to be a table somewhere that controls this jump but it isn't exposed in MEP.
If things hold steady after the next couple drive cycles I'll probably just move along.
#173
Same here, but with the some help from a shop.
I'm curious what all would need to be pulled to do a full PCM swap. From what I gather it would boil down to the following, enabling completion without the need for a dealer visit:
All from same 6MT donor:
-ECU
-ABS Module
-Immobilzer
-Ignition key harness
-Bound Keys (ideally two or more)
An option for me is to just keep my 4AT PCM, suppress the TCM communication CEL, and use my existing Adaptronic Select to control the APV and P2 injectors. That's my current plan, but a friend just informed me his 6MT was just totaled and I now have the option of a full blown "brain" transplant.
Thanks again, RR. It's taken me 7 years but I'm finally doing it.
I'm curious what all would need to be pulled to do a full PCM swap. From what I gather it would boil down to the following, enabling completion without the need for a dealer visit:
All from same 6MT donor:
-ECU
-ABS Module
-Immobilzer
-Ignition key harness
-Bound Keys (ideally two or more)
An option for me is to just keep my 4AT PCM, suppress the TCM communication CEL, and use my existing Adaptronic Select to control the APV and P2 injectors. That's my current plan, but a friend just informed me his 6MT was just totaled and I now have the option of a full blown "brain" transplant.
Thanks again, RR. It's taken me 7 years but I'm finally doing it.
I ran eng before pulling . transferred eng/trans /
went beautiful till i went to crank spins fine no run.
tried 4port ecu still no run.
programmed jap ecu to car still have fast flashing sec lite.
what did i do wrong ? i didn't run starter wires from switch, just jumped (grn/red and wht/blu) under ecu @ big plug . cranks just fine, no comm w/pats
went so far as to get locksmith to try to program keys to no avail
Last edited by renegaderacing; 12-11-2015 at 10:58 AM.