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AT to MT swap

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Old 06-08-2010, 10:38 AM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by Bigbacon
doesn't even seem worth the trouble...
You're right. Days browsing and negotiating at dealerships and several thousand in losses from a trade are less trouble than spending a weekend working with a friend and a couple grand on parts for the swap.
Old 06-08-2010, 11:27 AM
  #127  
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hey guys ok so i did the conversion it works beautifully i just cant get the car started on the manual pcm i get it started on the auto ecm no problem it drives perfect but i just brought car to mazda today they programmed my keys to the manual pcm and it was cranking but not turning over any ideas? plz i wanna be able to drive the car properly
Old 10-02-2010, 04:33 AM
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RotaryRessurection,

This is off topic but I opened a thread about a 4AT to 6AT swap, I would like your input on it since you are very experienced with this car.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-specific-performance-mods-97/4at-6at-upgrade-205690/

Thank you
Old 10-03-2010, 11:22 AM
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ON

while doing the conversion is it necessary to change tcm or no?
Old 10-03-2010, 12:47 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by rx8dudebud
while doing the conversion is it necessary to change tcm or no?
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection in the first post of this thread
I did have to unplug and remove the trans control module (TCM) for the AT, which is bolted in place of the clutch pedal.
The AT TCM gets replaced with the MT TCM...otherwise known as the human operator's right hand and left foot.
Old 01-06-2011, 12:49 PM
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is your price of 2500-2800 with an engine or without?
If you can find a manual tranny for 1500 and already have a 6port AT engine, all that is necessary is a tranny swap, guage cluster, pcm, and clutch kit?
how hard would it be for a local place to do this? Like pretty much swap the tranny and clutch kit. Is it an average joe job to install a guage cluster and pcm?
Old 01-06-2011, 02:53 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by pledpled12
is your price of 2500-2800 with an engine or without?
I swapped my engine, so that cost included the used engine, but not the rebuild of that used engine.


If you can find a manual tranny for 1500 and already have a 6port AT engine, all that is necessary is a tranny swap, guage cluster, pcm, and clutch kit?
and other small bits, yes.


how hard would it be for a local place to do this? Like pretty much swap the tranny and clutch kit. Is it an average joe job to install a guage cluster and pcm?
Other than possible PCM programming issues which MUST BE DONE BY A DEALER, everything else is simple plug and play, bolt in install.
Old 01-06-2011, 07:33 PM
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thanks a lot for the reply
any problems with the car after the conversion?
Old 08-08-2011, 09:55 PM
  #134  
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thank you,you have spent a lot of time to inform us . levi
Old 02-06-2012, 12:53 PM
  #135  
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Before you say anything yes i have read this thread, several times actually...
I need to know if the MT brake pedal works direct bolt on with a AT setup without problems. Im aware the unit splits into two halves and the MT pedal will pug into the upper half of the AT's bracket, but i wanted to be sure the MT pedal will work on a AT setup (brake lights, etc). I dont care about the steel cable used to keep from shifting out of park without pressing on the brake first, i just need to know if it will work. Thanks
Old 02-06-2012, 10:19 PM
  #136  
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Isn't it a little presumptuous of you to come into this thread and start barking out orders toward someone while at the same time hoping to extract information that you need from that same person? That is normally not the best way to get what you're after in life.

What's to stop you from finding out the same way that I did...try it and see what happens?

With that said, define "work on a AT setup". Are we talking about a bone stock AT car? A car with a mix and match of certain AT and MT parts? I don't understand what you are trying to do yet. My best guess at this point is that you want to put an MT brake pedal onto an otherwise stock AT car (for some reason).

Obviously I put MT pedals into my AT car, using the stock AT brake booster etc. so clearly there is no problem there. The original AT dash wiring was left in place and all the lights still worked, so obviously there's no problem with that.

So, in light of all of this restated information, I see no reason that the pedal wouldn't work for whatever it is you're trying to do. No new information has been presented in this post, simply logical conclusions drawn from information that already existed in this thread.

The only new piece of information that I can offer is that each pedal has it's own bracket and they bolt individually to the firewall. There is no changing pedals onto different brackets to worry about...you bolt the entire thing right into the car and you're done.
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Old 02-06-2012, 11:05 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Isn't it a little presumptuous of you to come into this thread and start barking out orders toward someone while at the same time hoping to extract information that you need from that same person? That is normally not the best way to get what you're after in life.

What's to stop you from finding out the same way that I did...try it and see what happens?

With that said, define "work on a AT setup". Are we talking about a bone stock AT car? A car with a mix and match of certain AT and MT parts? I don't understand what you are trying to do yet. My best guess at this point is that you want to put an MT brake pedal onto an otherwise stock AT car (for some reason).

Obviously I put MT pedals into my AT car, using the stock AT brake booster etc. so clearly there is no problem there. The original AT dash wiring was left in place and all the lights still worked, so obviously there's no problem with that.

So, in light of all of this restated information, I see no reason that the pedal wouldn't work for whatever it is you're trying to do. No new information has been presented in this post, simply logical conclusions drawn from information that already existed in this thread.

The only new piece of information that I can offer is that each pedal has it's own bracket and they bolt individually to the firewall. There is no changing pedals onto different brackets to worry about...you bolt the entire thing right into the car and you're done.
if i came off as ordering or demanding anything, my apologies. i did not intended to come off as such.

nothing is stopping me at the moment, and i wanted to just make sure i was clear on my understanding that the brake would still function as intended. despite peoples suggestions i am slowly working my way to completing this swap as well, for reasons of undergoing a learning experience. you have already underwent the learning process and have much knowledge in the troubles i will face doing the same thing you did, so i came to ask you for assistance in answering my question. so again, if i did in fact come off as demanding or giving orders, know that was not the intended tone of my statement. thank you however for properly addressing my concern.
Old 04-12-2012, 05:13 PM
  #138  
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i just read all of this and am exhausted... however i am undergoing the extreme.... 13b-REW swap and my car was in fact an 05 AT sooo... RR you just recieved a PM... hope you can give me some time and advice and maybe a little more details in some areas... i wish you lived in NY right now tho or vise versa and that i lived in TN id gladly pay to have you set up my pedals, SM, MC etc.
Old 04-12-2012, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by rxsevenor8
i just read all of this and am exhausted... however i am undergoing the extreme.... 13b-REW swap and my car was in fact an 05 AT sooo... RR you just recieved a PM... hope you can give me some time and advice and maybe a little more details in some areas... i wish you lived in NY right now tho or vise versa and that i lived in TN id gladly pay to have you set up my pedals, SM, MC etc.
ive already started little bits and pieces..so far its actually not hard at all. understand i havent pulled engine or trans yet but everything else has been a breeze.
Old 04-16-2012, 04:33 AM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by Xero Ryuu
if i came off as ordering or demanding anything, my apologies. i did not intended to come off as such.
You didn't. It's more about him and the way he is, not you.
Old 04-16-2012, 12:12 PM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
You didn't. It's more about him and the way he is, not you.
Ain't that the pot calling the kettle black?

you really need to be careful how you talk about me on the forum, i dont appreciate it. tone down the disrespect, i dont know where you're from but where i am from, we dont tolerate that. dont even reply to this, just keep your mouth shut. consider yourself warned.
Old 04-17-2012, 08:22 AM
  #142  
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I am many things and have no problem admitting it. Your reply above clarifies what i posted earlier and have experienced and known with you. I read what he posted and then saw your reply and wa like "WTF" because he didn't do any of what you went off ranting over. Just like when I tried to explain to you about attaching your pictures rather than linking them in extra large size in the thread body, which BTW the forum requires this in the DIY area just for the same reason I informed you about back then. As you have made clear, nobody can ask or do anything that brings what you have or haven't done into question without you taking offense to it. There are no logical conclusions in a thread like this. If it is not stated then there are only assumptions or guesses or asking the question, which is all he did. I can only conclude that your always being offended if anyone questions your posting is that you have some kind of superiority complex that somehow leads you to believe you can never be wrong so how he dare ask you a question about it. And before you go calling me the kettle I am wrong more times than I care to admit, but I will admit it just the same. I have no similar expectation from you, neither in your previous reply to him or elsewhere. You are no better of a person than anyone else here and certainly not a God in the eyes of other men.

Otherwise take your pathetic warning and shove it up your arrogant ***. I know who you are and where you are. If you need to know the same about me then just let me know. You disrespect yourself making such idiotic remarks publicly.
Old 05-10-2012, 08:33 AM
  #143  
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RR;
for the two different clutch switches, you did not install the top switch you noted, does it only control cruise? i cannot seem to find that piece of information. the starter switch wont need to be installed either if i go with a remote start system since it will have to be bypassed anyways, correct? Thank you
Old 05-10-2012, 11:58 AM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by Xero Ryuu
RR;
for the two different clutch switches, you did not install the top switch you noted, does it only control cruise? i cannot seem to find that piece of information. the starter switch wont need to be installed either if i go with a remote start system since it will have to be bypassed anyways, correct? Thank you
Well, it's been long enough since I did it that I don't recall exactly, and since I don't have the car anymore, I honestly don't know. I don't recall hooking up any clutch switch whatsoever. Normally one is for the starter interlock (the one that gets pushed when the pedal is down) and the other is for the ecu/pcm and also cruise. However as noted above, my cruise still worked 100% fine without this hookup on the clutch pedal after the swap (because I was still using an automatic dash harness which lacked that provision). Pretty much any manufacturer provision for the computer to monitor the clutch pedal isn't significant enough to warrant worrying about it and it should not change the way the car runs, however I am sure the engineers had some minor little reason to do it although I do not know what it was.

The PCM pinout chart does identify which wire the clutch switch was ultimately hooked up to, if you really want to try and run your own wire to it.
Old 05-10-2012, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Well, it's been long enough since I did it that I don't recall exactly, and since I don't have the car anymore, I honestly don't know. I don't recall hooking up any clutch switch whatsoever. Normally one is for the starter interlock (the one that gets pushed when the pedal is down) and the other is for the ecu/pcm and also cruise. However as noted above, my cruise still worked 100% fine without this hookup on the clutch pedal after the swap (because I was still using an automatic dash harness which lacked that provision). Pretty much any manufacturer provision for the computer to monitor the clutch pedal isn't significant enough to warrant worrying about it and it should not change the way the car runs, however I am sure the engineers had some minor little reason to do it although I do not know what it was.

The PCM pinout chart does identify which wire the clutch switch was ultimately hooked up to, if you really want to try and run your own wire to it.
I plan on bypassing the starter interlock unless i can get that switch for cheap. I truthfully dont see it as a necessity. I also do not care enough for cruise to wire that in, in the event that function does not carry over. However i will get some extra wire in the event i do need to run a line for that switch if i need it for the pcm.

So far ive gotten everything besides engine (dressed), transmission (with shifter), clutch reinforcement bracket (getting to be pro-active), and pcm. The parts i have gotten only ran me $250 (i know where to look. the additional oil cooler has already been installed in time for summer)

Thanks again for all your help thus far. I will also try to take some photos once i finally get to performing this task to add to this thread.
Old 05-10-2012, 11:18 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by Xero Ryuu
I plan on bypassing the starter interlock unless i can get that switch for cheap.
There's nothing to bypass, because it's not there on your auto dash harness to begin with. IT will only work if you wire it up manually.



I truthfully dont see it as a necessity.
I didn't either, but I'm not a person who parks my MT in gear unless it's an exceptionally steep hill. Besides, a rotary won't really give you much engine braking to stop/slow the car even if the e-brake did let it roll.



I also do not care enough for cruise to wire that in, in the event that function does not carry over.
My cruise worked as-is without "wiring anything in".
Old 05-11-2012, 11:21 AM
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at mt swap

Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
I do have a manual-to-auto conversion package for sale cheap, if anyone is interested...
Is this a joke lol or do you really
Old 05-11-2012, 11:29 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by p61190
Is this a joke lol or do you really
It was and still is a joke, but 4 years ago when I made this thread I really did have it if someone wanted it.

I later sold the auto components one by one on ebay and it's all long since gone.
Old 08-01-2012, 12:42 AM
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I'm new to rx8 club and Frist up nice job on the swap i'm doing this swap rite now and was wanting to know if the wiring that goes from the battery terminal, to fusebox, to starter, and the engine harness is that all I need? The tec at mazda was tryin to tell me that I need the whole front car harness part # fe06-67-010f that includes the fuse box Is this true or was this guy tryin to con me into spendin $2700 bc im not made of money
Old 08-01-2012, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Sly
I'm new to rx8 club and Frist up nice job on the swap i'm doing this swap rite now and was wanting to know if the wiring that goes from the battery terminal, to fusebox, to starter, and the engine harness is that all I need? The tec at mazda was tryin to tell me that I need the whole front car harness part # fe06-67-010f that includes the fuse box Is this true or was this guy tryin to con me into spendin $2700 bc im not made of money
As indicated in the first post of the thread, I replaced the engine/emissions/fuel injection harness as well as the starter/alternator/battery harness. I did not change any of the body harness/wiring native to the car itself.

IF you had access to ALL of the manual wiring from a donor car or something, and the time/inclination to remove the dash and carpet to change it all out, then sure, you could have a 100% seamless perfect swap. Obviously it is not necessary to do it that way, as I proved with my swap.


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