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That's why I figured the auto ECU would be easier to use, because it's already be paired to the parts in the car. I guess I'll see for myself, if anything goes wrong I can use the ECU that comes with the motor I'm getting, and have it reprogrammed using FORscan or what have you.
understandably, I had to change my ignition switch anyway because someone attempted to break in and steal it, however I have heard the auto ecu will have less power and might go into sort of a limp mode that really effects performance capabilities
is your price of 2500-2800 with an engine or without?
If you can find a manual tranny for 1500 and already have a 6port AT engine, all that is necessary is a tranny swap, guage cluster, pcm, and clutch kit?
how hard would it be for a local place to do this? Like pretty much swap the tranny and clutch kit. Is it an average joe job to install a guage cluster and pcm?
it’s unlikely you’ll find a shop willing to do this unless they specialize is Mazda/Rx-8s, dealerships most likely won’t unless they’re super cool where you live for some reason. I found an 04 6 port automatic, I believe it was a 6sp auto but I can’t remember. I found a perfectly good 6spd manual tranny for $100, don’t ask how cuz tbh I don’t know, I bought a new flywheel, counter balance, dual friction stage II/III clutch disk, and stage III pressure plate, but obviously you could use the stock ones, and I just used a stock brake and clutch pedal from a junk yard car. You’ll also need a starter to fit the Manual transmission and I’ve heard about the starter not matching the iron but I think that’s just for the 4 port engines because mine fit fine. That’s basically it for the mechanical parts, but in order for everything to run smoothly, you’ll want to get a donor car, maybe with a blown engine or something so it’s cheap, then pull the entire ignition switch dash guage cluster, ECU, and the keyless entry module from underneath the passenger side glovebox. There are also 2 clutch safety switches that attach to the pedal and will need to be hooked up to the harness. The harness for my car had been chewed by rats so I had to replace it anyway, so I’m not sure if the automatic had the connections for it or not, but I don’t see why it would, other than ease of manufacturing if they use the exact same harness on both cars. If you want to be able to use the keys to get in, I would also recommend swapping the front doors, I’m not sure if the passenger door even has a keyhole atm but I swapped them both anyway just to be safe.
understandably, I had to change my ignition switch anyway because someone attempted to break in and steal it, however I have heard the auto ecu will have less power and might go into sort of a limp mode that really effects performance capabilities
Well I'll put my money where my mouth is and see for myself
Let’s be clear; 6 or 5 speed is irrelevant. It’s not any easier, it’s exactly the same as far as installation and general operation goes. The difference is the 5-spd has larger gaps between gears. In theory the 4-port had more mid range torque to offset that. In reality the 6-spd is likely faster and sportier for that same reason. The 5-spd is stronger, but maybe a moot point in a naturally aspirated 4-port.
My bet is you have a potty mouth and that’s where you’ll be flushing your money down and away in
Not only will you not be using FORscan to reprogram this pcm, but you can’t program functions that don’t exist in it to begin with. You clearly aren’t doing due diligence to educate yourself on the subject first, then proceed with logical action second.
Let’s be clear; 6 or 5 speed is irrelevant. It’s not any easier, it’s exactly the same as far as installation and general operation goes. The difference is the 5-spd has larger gaps between gears. In theory the 4-port had more mid range torque to offset that. In reality the 6-spd is likely faster and sportier for that same reason. The 5-spd is stronger, but maybe a moot point in a naturally aspirated 4-port.
My bet is you have a potty mouth and that’s where you’ll be flushing your money down and away in
Not only will you not be using FORscan to reprogram this pcm, but you can’t program functions that don’t exist in it to begin with. You clearly aren’t doing due diligence to educate yourself on the subject first, then proceed with logical action second.
who exactly are you talking to ? Just for clarification but I don’t think the attitude is necessary, everyone is just here for information or to offer help...
Cool it guys... Any further heated postings and a force 7 day HOLIDAY will be summoned forthwith.
Just to add, Do Not Attempt Any swaps unless you are mechanically competent, do lots of reading here and understand the process.
YES the mechanical part is relatively easy, THE ISSUE is the electrics, like control modules, some switches and yes wiring.
I don't care if it is an AT into a MT frame or a 4 Port Engine into a 6 Port or Visa Versa.
PLUS, what Your Personal 'Finished' and Working Standards are that is acceptable to you, what works and what does not work.
It is NOT a simple or easy task...PERIOD.
Cool it guys... Any further heated postings and a force 7 day HOLIDAY will be summoned forthwith.
Just to add, Do Not Attempt Any swaps unless you are mechanically competent, do lots of reading here and understand the process.
YES the mechanical part is relatively easy, THE ISSUE is the electrics, like control modules, some switches and yes wiring.
I don't care if it is an AT into a MT frame or a 4 Port Engine into a 6 Port or Visa Versa. PLUS, what Your Personal 'Finished' and Working Standards are that is acceptable to you, what works and what does not work.
It is NOT a simple or easy task...PERIOD.
I didn’t mean for that to sound aggressive I was genuinely curious cuz there was no quote
I didn’t mean for that to sound aggressive I was genuinely curious cuz there was no quote
That's OK, you are a new member...we wont extradite you to Siberia yet, unless you go too far
Generally a poster will 'quote you' directly IF they are being specific.
Or a post submitted directly after your own (not quoted) is considered to be directed to you.
Take care and '''Stop the Spread""...keep your distance from others and wash your hands regularly.
That's OK, you are a new member...we wont extradite you to Siberia yet, unless you go too far
Generally a poster will 'quote you' directly IF they are being specific.
Or a post submitted directly after your own (not quoted) is considered to be directed to you.
Take care and '''Stop the Spread""...keep your distance from others and wash your hands regularly.
that’s what I figured his text just didn’t seem to relate to what I was saying which is why I asked. But thanks for the info, I’ll keep that in mind.
if you were even paying attention at all it’d be more than clear who was being referred to, because it addressed multiple statements by the same person, but let me help you out some and then maybe you can go back and review all the recent posts to be more clear about it how each point referred back to what:
Originally Posted by Dud1f3r
Well I'll put my money where my mouth is and see for myself
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
My bet is you have a potty mouth and that’s where you’ll be flushing your money down and away in
after being on here for 15 years I’ve seen my share of people with hair-trigger typing fingers. My motto to all newbies is to “read more and post less”. Because you’d also then know it’s not an attitude, it’s just me.
if you were even paying attention at all it’d be more than clear who was being referred to, because it addressed multiple statements by the same person, but let me help you out some and then maybe you can go back and review all the recent posts to be more clear about it how each point referred back to what:
after being on here for 15 years I’ve seen my share of people with hair-trigger typing fingers. My motto to all newbies is to “read more and post less”. Because you’d also then know it’s not an attitude, it’s just me.
.
like I said I really wasn’t trying to cause any problems or escalate things in any way I was in all honesty just trying to clarify. Again I’m sorry if I made it seem any other way
we’re just talking man, no need to blow up and or be overly apologetic, I just have an in your face style and am more often than not just joking/clowning around
So glad I found this thread I’ve been looking into doing this exact same thing on my 04 automatic since the transmission suicided recently if you’ve got any tips for me since I’ve got the same year car as you did your swap on would be much appreciated
What kind of issues could be expected if the 4-port engine and AT PCM are kept and just the transmission is swapped? The reason for this configuration is that in order to pass inspection in my state, the VIN of the PCM/ECU must match the chassis VIN.
Those of you that have temporarily used the AT PCM before you got the MT PCM sorted, did you notice any drivability issues? Did you read the CEL codes that came up?
Of the codes/faults that the PCM would throw due to the missing automatic transmission hardware, are there any that can't be cleared through VersaTuner or MazdaEdit?
I am amazed this thread is alive since 2008. Kudos to Kevin and all of you. I am in the midst of a 2005 4 port Auto Shinka conversion to 6 port Manual. Picked up a 2007 salvage from VA as a donor car and is just about a carcass at this point. My past 2008 40th Anniversary lives on the endurance track circuit with American Endurance Racing and after a bunch of cool cars in between I am ready to go full circle for my street/track car with the 2005 Shinka converted to manual and otherwise restored. I did correspond with Kevin and he is a nice and helpful gentleman. Somewhere above Kevin made comment that if you didn't like the clutch pedal switch(es) "pigtail" approach (requires one switch for starter and one for PCM to know how to manage idle with or without the clutch engaged/disengaged and to disengage cruise if clutch is depressed) by taking the whole interior out including the dash and HVAC to swap the AT body harness to the MT body harness. Totally unnecessary as Kevin said. I thought the attached photo might give you some insight on what that would involve. Also SaturnNights, your stuff above is spot on and awesome. Thanks for the tip on avoiding having to run a wire to PCM from clutch and using the AT control to PCM now unused harness for a donor wire. Fantastic.
so far i have confirmed the engine harnesses are identical between 6port motors , successfully started another 2006 AT with my 2007AT steering column and key switched out (2006AT red shinka had a bad steering column)
mazda says they want nothing to do with helping me sort the keys so im in a pickle.. the 2007AT CWP has a key for the door and trunk that now go with the red cars steering column, and ill have a ecu from 2004 MT car with old keys and not sure if its gonna start lol. i have repaired the 2006AT red shinka steering column and put it back in the 2007 CWP because of the smart key thing... probably gonna have to swap both again i guess
Installing the flywheel was super simple with the counterweight already there ... the reman block has 22k on it now and has been well tested the past 8 months.
Gonna get everything cleaned up and harness swapped tomorrow. The shinka subframe is goin in as well with the urethane (very freakin rigid stuff not foam)
Just learned that this shinka is #1499/1500.... sad to see it get stripped its so clean and the red looks nice in the engine bay. I guess i will just have to manual swap this one too :P
I have accomplished a lot today everything in the engine bay is done and all power working but havent tried starting yet its too late for straight header :P
I am struggling with the power plant frame seems like its 1 inch shorter than it should be but i know they are no different between auto and manual because of this thread and am confused atm. gonna drop the rear subframe since last step is also put the rear shocks in and see if i can get it bolted together first then install the subframe..i doubt anyone is gonna respond here in time so back at it tomorrow!
the powerplant frame connects the tail of the transmission to the rear differential. the powerplant frame itself will only be able to be bolted up once those two pieces are within reasonable alignment with each other.
you might find that you have to carefully jack up the transmission to be further up in the trans tunnel before you're able to line up the powerplant frame holes with the transmission.
as an aside, i recommend that you make use of the tunnel brace that has the threaded hole in it, because that threaded hole [and an appropriate length bolt] is used for final pitch/alignment of the powerplant frame, and by extension, the pitch/alignment of the transmission and rear differential. i'm sure one can eyeball it, but there's a spec for the bolt protrusion within the FSM.
you're almost there. keep it up
Last edited by SaturnNiGHTS; Jun 4, 2021 at 11:56 PM.
Reason: removed spurious word
Your Power Plant Frame (PPF) may be same auto and manual or not. There was a change from 4 speed auto to 6 speed auto. Earlier models you need a manual or later S1 PPF. And yes it may not fit together until everything else is in place (engine and rear diff horizontal not tilted and then the PPF is slid up in level position with two people raising it together, one in the front and one in the rear. You can do it alone if you have done it before or use jacks in front and rear and keep it level while PPF is goin up.
