chilboy87

he had it in auto, not manual mode, so he couldn't get the full potential. i know that much, but its still noticably slower

tajabaho1

you see...........use manumatic shifting, especially the paddle shifters, they are much faster to shift..........and trust me 4AT are at least 10-15 whp slower than a 6AT, I am guessing, again, its just guessing, and do you think I got this 1k post and dont know how to use manual shift mode? cmon man

if u want 20-30 whp, easy, but not worth the money though
CAI
new spark plug
new coils
HKS twin power
voltage stabilizer
Exhaust
mid pipe
ram air duct
pulleys
bigger injectors
aluminum lightweight flexplate
ceramic clutch pack(get it from a junk yard, it fits most AT tranny)
custom torque converter
CF driveshaft
4.77 gear ratio
ahem...........
all comes out to........idk 6-7k?
but you'll be set for FI if u get this done to your car.........and that would be another.......... 7-9k.......

all said and done........300whp......

Silver_Surfer

Dont take this the wrong way now But you're showing your age. Only a few mods you mentioned above will give you a few more ponies. The others like sparkplugs? Coils? are tune up parts to get your vehicle back in good running cond. Wont give you more power, it will just give you back the power the worn parts lost. A T/C wont add anymore power either. Flex plt?(Its already a thin peice of sheetmetal) Clutch pack?(You mean shiftkit). Bigger injectors?(your 8 will only run richer and burn more gas). To get anywhere close to 300whp you gotta go turbo or NOS!



About the post # thing. Join date March 07?


Youre right about one thing Horse Power aint cheap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DMRH

Have to tell you guys that I did the HKS twin power on my 4AT & the result was impressive. Bum-in-seat dyno felt the gain & thats got to be worth around 5KW if you can feel it

REgards

chilboy87

i think tajabaho knew exactly what im talking about. what i was looking for was the proper way to setup a 4AT. taking care of and changing the things posted above will let me have the option of getting FI later if I want to. and dropping 6-7k first sounds like a better idea than just getting FI and having somethin fail on me ya kno wat i mean? and you kno wat, i dont kno why, but for some reason i find paddle shifting slower than the gear shifter man, almost like it lags for a quick second. is it just me?

RotaryP7

6-7k? I'd rather buy turbo or some kind of forced induction..

chilboy87

right but it wont last is wat im saying. id rather get everything prepped up to last, and then i would be comfortable if i choose to get FI or not. Wats the point of having a turbo or supercharger if after a few months (or mayb days by the way i drive) everything breaks down on you? no need to blow up your engine to have fun, gotta b safe man

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

chilboy: Use your money wisely, do not waste it on pulleys and the like. Taj is very close, the hp difference is closer to 20hp difference in the 4at vs the 6at and about 25hp difference between the 4at and the 6mt. I usually play along with the slow 4at game but it is very slow off the line. Nothing will improve the off the line but FI. Even changing the gears does not help significantly. Unless you just impatient or going FI fairly soon then hold off most mods. If your going FI then fix your cooling as you will need additional cooling. The X gained me 20hp when I was n/a but was very temperamental. Mazda did a fair job of getting what's available out of the engine so most other mods will only gain a couple of hp each and not really be needed later. A good exhaust gives you very little except that it will sound faster. Just take your time and read the results that people get from each of the mods and make up you own mind.

Silver_Surfer

You guys may have purchased the wrong car if you feel you have to dump so much $$$ on a car thats has nothing wrong with it.



My two cents!

chilboy87

good advice bro. just that i kno theres not much more you can do except fine tune, FI, and waste more gas. just im not a hundred percent sure if im going to go FI or not at this moment, just wanna be prepared if i do later on ya feel me? i mean to be honest, i probably will just not anytime soon. and if anything, doing everything else will help learn more about the motor and its characteristics. that way, if i decide to get a new 8 in 09-10, ill know wat im dealing with rather than wat i did now

tajabaho1

that is what I'm saying, is that it is not worth the money, all the NA mods will cost you around 6-7k, and yes silver surfer, all these mods upgraded sparkplug and upgraded coils + hks twin power and a bigger injector with a new NA tune for the INT-X WILL NET YOU MORE POWER, but I didn't say anything about FUEL ECONOMY. and like phil says, all these mods are definitly not cheap at all, I mean AT ALL........

Zero_Rotary

from the statement above...are you saying difference between 6AT & 6MT aprox around 5HP only? I didnt think the 6AT was that much faster

chilboy87

i kno it will cost a lot, i just want to b properly prepared for FI is anything

RotaryP7

I want fuel economy mods!

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

I know little about the 6at (but am learning) as I own a 4at. What I am using is the published dyno results not any printed estimates. Now you would think that with only such a small difference that they would be near the same in a drag, wrong. The 6mt will still walk on the 6at for obvious reasons. The 6at is now a six speed a/t with the related gearing so it's relationship to the mt is closer. It's my contention that with a few mods that they can be a lot closer in a drag, but even at that unless you FI the at the mt will always win (subject to drivers and mods). I hope I'm clear.

Silver_Surfer

INT-X will def give you big gains!!! If I knew thats where you were going......

chilboy87

well duh, anything and everything needs a better tune to get the best outta it ya kno wat i mean :P

Silver_Surfer

Really, I guess thats why we have to change our oil even if theres still some in there

tajabaho1

^ I barely change my oil, I just add it and by the time it has to be changed, there is a whole new 4-5 quarts in there already

and yea silver surfer, all the NA mods and a tune for it will definitly net you somewhere within 20-30 whp, if not more, but as I said, if you want to go FI and be uber godly with a reliable still daily driveable car, something really needs to be done with that god damn tranny

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

What about the oil filter?? You need also remember that the OMP feeds some of that engine oil into the combustion chamber to lub the seals. Do you premix? Maybe what you said is a joke and I missed it.

The car can still be enjoyed with the current trans and FI, but if your going to track or drag, your correct it needs work.

Spinning Sushi

iTrader: (21)

No... it's no joke, he actually does that...

tajabaho1

lol, yea I normally change it every 3k mile, but the last time was about 7-8k miles......just changed it yesterday while trying to change my rotors........sucks

chilboy87

well tajabaho has a point tho, if you want a faster auto but a daily driver, you have to make sure everything is properly set up. i doubt any car, let alone our 8's, can handle FI for a while and still b a daily driver.

tajabaho1

I'm gonna save you here before you get bashed to bits and pieces
alot of MT 8s are still daily driven, but their ability to do this hinders their ability to hit 300whp, that is what we are saying, at least I am
and for us MTs we can hit about 250 safely and might still be able to retain daily driveability, but that is at our tranny's max stress and she won't last long, in order to get 300whp+ from our tranny and still retain reliability, you WILL NEED TO REINFORCE.........

ok I saved you

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

I do not know your driving style. If your using the car for a daily driver a mid range boost s/c such as the Pettit or a adapted turbo such as is in 09Factors car can be an enjoyable daily driver. With proper maintenance, should last as long as most will own the car (stock will last longer again for obvious reasons). The existing a/t can be made to last also by adjusting your emanage to only raise the shift points by a maximum of 800 RPM. Now if your a racer (street, track or drag) then all bets are off. Maintenance is the key word here.