Who will port my motor!?!?
#51
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um yEAH...
He tried tunign my car and he cannot take the blame for cracking my motor. He says "I used to much boost" Yet he tuned "conservative". He does not know what he is doing "tuning" wise on rx8's!!! my opinion only! The build is dedicated to BRian from BDC!!!! ok!
#53
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Racing beat knows alot. As we all know they do not have rx8 model car. They do race cars only! They do not have a rx8 on their videos. I called them and they told me "as for now were not messing with that motor" that was 4 months ago. If something changed from now. I have not heard.
Last edited by suay; 10-11-2009 at 10:56 PM.
#55
BDC Motorsports
http://bdc.cyberosity.com/main.php?g2_itemId=6891
I tried tuning your car three times. After I quit using the wideband from your Microtech and started using mine, I was able to actually do all of the fuel curves in vacuum that I completely re-did, by the way. I'll also mention that I converted the map from 'Normal' to 'Matrix' mode. Perhaps you're familiar with that, Josue.
The only real part that I had difficulty with was load tuning. I never said "you used too much boost" and I've got no idea where the heck you're getting that from. On a 10:1 motor, I recommend not running over 10psi on pump gas; actually I'd feel better if it were a hair bit lower given what you use the car for. I do tune conservatively. What broke your plate? I don't know for certain but it's not from me. If it were, the symptom that I saw and felt prior to it cracking the front upper dowel land would've been different. Been there, done that. There's no blame for me to take. The thing was popping randomly almost as if it had too hot a plug or had either interference on the trigger or crossfire between plug wires. It was a new symptom the third time I had seat time in the car (of which I charged you nothing for if you recall) that didn't appear the prior two times I was there.
I do know what I'm doing and I've been doing it a very long time. Good grief. If you're looking for a magician tuner to come wave a magic wand over your car to somehow make it flawless and perfect then you're looking for the wrong thing. It'll never happen. Every single car has an issue and many of them multiple ones! We as professional tuners can't possibly predict every single thing that can or will go wrong on a car. In fact, we are so pessimistic about it, that it forces the wiser of us to take our time (like I did on yours) and learn a car thoroughly before trying to load it out because we're forced to assume that there's something wrong with it that we have to discover and fix. That's just the way it goes and it's the same thing I did on yours as I've done to a gazillion before and since then.
Don't try and spread this garbage around that I'm somehow inept. If you're so unsatisfied with the many hours I've spent trying to sort your car (the last several you got for free), then you can find somebody else to do it. I'm not dealing with you again. Good luck on your build.
Sorry to hi-jack the thread Steve but this one really got under my skin.
B
#56
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Honestly, i dont care if you can't tune a lawnmower. Who asked you to tune anything anyway. As long as you can skillfully put a dman hole or two in my motor where i like, who cares if you blew up 100 rotaries through tuning. (Not saying that you did lol)
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Brian, I'm glad you saw this and responded in a professional manner I feel for you builders and tuners because your rep is on the line every time you guys touch a car! Based on the reviews here and else where I can honestly say I'd have no issues with a BDC and or a BHR built car.
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Show me a good tuner who hasn't blown up a motor or cracked an iron and I'll show you someone who hasn't learned anything. The good thing as that it is typically their own engines they blow up. Saying that, it doesn't mean that I am justifying blowing up someone else's car. I'm not even saying that happened here as I'm sure Brian did his best with it. He's pretty thorough and is no stranger to tuning. The fact that this is a Renesis vs a 13B is completely irrelevant. It's a rotary therefore it's the same thing. He's got tons of rotary experience. It is this very reason why I don't want to do any work for others. I don't want to build/tune anything, only to have the owner blow up their car and then come back and try to pin blame on me. In today's blame happy, lawsuit oriented world, it's easier to help no one than to risk helping someone who doesn't treat their car right who will then look to shift responsibility away from themselves. There was a time when I'd help others but anymore I don't even want to help someone else change a tire. It's not worth it.
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So now that porting and bitching has been discusses, whats everyones take on pinning the renesis. Do you guys think its worth it, or just a waste of time and money?
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I agree porting is not required to hit 400. ... but its one of those things that adds uniqueness and sure does sound cool lol. Also, it sure could not hurt on hitting that number or going a little over with out pushing the car to its limits.
So thats one for and one against pinning.
So thats one for and one against pinning.
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brian brian brian
You and i both know you would start tuning LATE! You would start Late and end late. You did not know what you were doing. You MIGHT KNOW RX7 but not RX-8 as i very well know. This is the first time i post about this subject in a long time. I too am talking in professional manner. You drove down for other job(s) as well. Every time you came down you tuned the car as if you were learnig the car and the system. You even called on of your buddys to ask them about the vacum hoses and stated "oh I see now". As for the tune you kept on tuning the car with a face of confusion with occasional comments of "hmm" its not suppose to do that." NOw brian how am I suppose to take that? I dont need your help and neither do some people of the south. Thanks for the comments but you and I both know I was cool and even recommended and post up on your thorttle body. YOur x-7 work as I hear is good. My friend the rx-8 is not a learning business. No more comments after this statde my poiny. As matter fact I dont even know why i'm typing any more.
Sway
ps
I should have charged you my engine not you to me! Not even a sorry people as in "hey i messed up" or "sorry for you ur loss" whatever it maybe. good old brian for ya!
Sway
ps
I should have charged you my engine not you to me! Not even a sorry people as in "hey i messed up" or "sorry for you ur loss" whatever it maybe. good old brian for ya!
Last edited by suay; 10-12-2009 at 08:32 PM.
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You could've fooled me.
http://bdc.cyberosity.com/main.php?g2_itemId=6891
I tried tuning your car three times. After I quit using the wideband from your Microtech and started using mine, I was able to actually do all of the fuel curves in vacuum that I completely re-did, by the way. I'll also mention that I converted the map from 'Normal' to 'Matrix' mode. Perhaps you're familiar with that, Josue.
The only real part that I had difficulty with was load tuning. I never said "you used too much boost" and I've got no idea where the heck you're getting that from. On a 10:1 motor, I recommend not running over 10psi on pump gas; actually I'd feel better if it were a hair bit lower given what you use the car for. I do tune conservatively. What broke your plate? I don't know for certain but it's not from me. If it were, the symptom that I saw and felt prior to it cracking the front upper dowel land would've been different. Been there, done that. There's no blame for me to take. The thing was popping randomly almost as if it had too hot a plug or had either interference on the trigger or crossfire between plug wires. It was a new symptom the third time I had seat time in the car (of which I charged you nothing for if you recall) that didn't appear the prior two times I was there.
I do know what I'm doing and I've been doing it a very long time. Good grief. If you're looking for a magician tuner to come wave a magic wand over your car to somehow make it flawless and perfect then you're looking for the wrong thing. It'll never happen. Every single car has an issue and many of them multiple ones! We as professional tuners can't possibly predict every single thing that can or will go wrong on a car. In fact, we are so pessimistic about it, that it forces the wiser of us to take our time (like I did on yours) and learn a car thoroughly before trying to load it out because we're forced to assume that there's something wrong with it that we have to discover and fix. That's just the way it goes and it's the same thing I did on yours as I've done to a gazillion before and since then.
Don't try and spread this garbage around that I'm somehow inept. If you're so unsatisfied with the many hours I've spent trying to sort your car (the last several you got for free), then you can find somebody else to do it. I'm not dealing with you again. Good luck on your build.
Sorry to hi-jack the thread Steve but this one really got under my skin.
B
http://bdc.cyberosity.com/main.php?g2_itemId=6891
I tried tuning your car three times. After I quit using the wideband from your Microtech and started using mine, I was able to actually do all of the fuel curves in vacuum that I completely re-did, by the way. I'll also mention that I converted the map from 'Normal' to 'Matrix' mode. Perhaps you're familiar with that, Josue.
The only real part that I had difficulty with was load tuning. I never said "you used too much boost" and I've got no idea where the heck you're getting that from. On a 10:1 motor, I recommend not running over 10psi on pump gas; actually I'd feel better if it were a hair bit lower given what you use the car for. I do tune conservatively. What broke your plate? I don't know for certain but it's not from me. If it were, the symptom that I saw and felt prior to it cracking the front upper dowel land would've been different. Been there, done that. There's no blame for me to take. The thing was popping randomly almost as if it had too hot a plug or had either interference on the trigger or crossfire between plug wires. It was a new symptom the third time I had seat time in the car (of which I charged you nothing for if you recall) that didn't appear the prior two times I was there.
I do know what I'm doing and I've been doing it a very long time. Good grief. If you're looking for a magician tuner to come wave a magic wand over your car to somehow make it flawless and perfect then you're looking for the wrong thing. It'll never happen. Every single car has an issue and many of them multiple ones! We as professional tuners can't possibly predict every single thing that can or will go wrong on a car. In fact, we are so pessimistic about it, that it forces the wiser of us to take our time (like I did on yours) and learn a car thoroughly before trying to load it out because we're forced to assume that there's something wrong with it that we have to discover and fix. That's just the way it goes and it's the same thing I did on yours as I've done to a gazillion before and since then.
Don't try and spread this garbage around that I'm somehow inept. If you're so unsatisfied with the many hours I've spent trying to sort your car (the last several you got for free), then you can find somebody else to do it. I'm not dealing with you again. Good luck on your build.
Sorry to hi-jack the thread Steve but this one really got under my skin.
B
"ken"
he went to rotory performance on your behalf
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still lookin around and trying to get quotes and opinons and talking to some somewhat local shops. I think the consensus is is that a bridgeport is not needed but the pins are a ok idea to get done. A bridge would be pretty badass though
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how was that last statement any indication that i do not know what i am doing? I simply stated that a bridgeport is not needed for what i want to achieve (400whp) but pinning the motor would be a good idea as a precaution.
On a lighter note, i think i got what i wanted out of this thread. Thanks for all the help and the input guys
On a lighter note, i think i got what i wanted out of this thread. Thanks for all the help and the input guys
Last edited by Phish806; 10-12-2009 at 09:09 PM.
#73
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Pinning is subjective. It depends what you want to strengthen. We've got loads being exerted in 3 different dimensions in the engine. Dowel pinning strengthens only 1 dimension and that is twist. In other words it will only stiffen the engine from an increase in produced torque that is trying to twist the engine apart. Tension bolts hold the engine together front to rear and resist those forces. They somewhat hold twist but primarily resist the forces trying to split the engine apart front to rear. The last dimension is that which is trying to cave in the rotor faces and blow out the sides of the rotor housings during combustion. There is no way to strengthen this.
Don't just dowel because someone says it's better. Do it because you need it. Most people think it's better but can't explain why or how. Keep in mind that adding dowels reduces strength in other areas. Everything is a tradeoff. The best thing to do would be to replace the existing dowels with new ones that are the full length of the engine rather than have them back to back joining in the center housing. This technique would add resistance to twist without a removal of material. The downside is finding them as you'll have to have them made.
Don't just dowel because someone says it's better. Do it because you need it. Most people think it's better but can't explain why or how. Keep in mind that adding dowels reduces strength in other areas. Everything is a tradeoff. The best thing to do would be to replace the existing dowels with new ones that are the full length of the engine rather than have them back to back joining in the center housing. This technique would add resistance to twist without a removal of material. The downside is finding them as you'll have to have them made.
#75
BDC Motorsports
Pinning is subjective. It depends what you want to strengthen. We've got loads being exerted in 3 different dimensions in the engine. Dowel pinning strengthens only 1 dimension and that is twist. In other words it will only stiffen the engine from an increase in produced torque that is trying to twist the engine apart. Tension bolts hold the engine together front to rear and resist those forces. They somewhat hold twist but primarily resist the forces trying to split the engine apart front to rear. The last dimension is that which is trying to cave in the rotor faces and blow out the sides of the rotor housings during combustion. There is no way to strengthen this.
Don't just dowel because someone says it's better. Do it because you need it. Most people think it's better but can't explain why or how. Keep in mind that adding dowels reduces strength in other areas. Everything is a tradeoff. The best thing to do would be to replace the existing dowels with new ones that are the full length of the engine rather than have them back to back joining in the center housing. This technique would add resistance to twist without a removal of material. The downside is finding them as you'll have to have them made.
Don't just dowel because someone says it's better. Do it because you need it. Most people think it's better but can't explain why or how. Keep in mind that adding dowels reduces strength in other areas. Everything is a tradeoff. The best thing to do would be to replace the existing dowels with new ones that are the full length of the engine rather than have them back to back joining in the center housing. This technique would add resistance to twist without a removal of material. The downside is finding them as you'll have to have them made.
B