It doesn't show anything at all. Its just two random torque curves. Not the same turbo, not the same weather, not the same dyno and the actual flow and pressure numbers are there or inferrable. Not to mention that dyno was done completely on spring - no boost controller.
That was the purpose of my 9 PSI dyno - to sell kits, not boost controllers.

You are really reaching for straws now.

 

just messing with ya man .

did you read the previous post

 

No. I only read what I get notifications on.
No time at the moment.

 

previous post - for your consideration when you get around to it ....

 

This just proves that a rotary will spin up damn near anything.... good old hot exhaust gases FTW!

Doesn't make it right though...

 

just reposting this here in case you missed it MM (was in the dyno thread).
10psi by 3000rpm from a zero start point - is that OK ?

 

But the fact that it works better the way I have it than the traditional way does .


Set me any test you like and I will bet beer that you cannot better my result

 

or Rum

 

The fact that it works better means the rest of your gear is hosed...

I am not sure how I can better explain it - all those lines are SIGNAL lines..... and your signalling from the wrong location. But I would like some rum..

 

There is only one scenario that taking the signal line from pre TP changes anything . That is part throttle acceleration from about 4500rpm onwards . In that mode my setup prevents overboost without the need for additional equipment to do this (IE BOV)
In all other scenarios my setup acts identically to plumbing it in to the UIM - there is no downside whatsoever. Think about it - my wastgate does not open till my BC sees the "start boost" figure which I currnetly set at 8 psi .

MOST people do not run HKS or Synchronic , they run a greddy type RS or similar . So for MOST people my setup will work better .

Making it more righterer than your way

 

Not true - in your set up; ANYTIME the manifold pressure is lower than your charge piping, your turbo will spin at a lower RPM than mine since you will be opening the wastegate sooner...

On a rotary it really doesn't matter since our motors are good turbo motors (especially with both of our fairly small turbo's)... but it is still wrong. And on a piston motor or a big turbo motor is WILL be noticeable.

 

My wastegate starts to open when charge pipe reaches 8 psi - when does yours ?

 

When my intake reaches 8 PSI.

 

AT WOT my intake is at the same pressure as my charge pipe

 

I know! But I am talking about the drop in turbo RPM's dude!

Your turbo rpm's are going to be lower than mine at part throttle since your slowing it down some... you have to make up for that lack of inertia where-as a properly set up turbo car does not.

Let me draw another analogy and see if it helps.

One of the tricks open to tuners on oversized turbo's is to retard timing in order to dump more heat into the turbine to spool it up faster...*cough* Esmeril *cough*.

Using the int-x and taking some timing out at boost threshold I can get that silly thing to boost about 500 RPMS faster.... ok cool - BUT when you hit that RPM not boosting you are sacrificing power - does it make it work? Yeah if the owner is willing to make the trade off, but it is isn't RIGHT - so why would I write a DIY talking about how all these turbo guys' timing maps are wrong and need to be fixed?!?!?!? It is an isolated scenario and simply a work around for a shortcoming in the system.... and only if the owner is willing to make the trade off.

 

Can we forget about your Synchronic for the moment because it is confusing the issue here and whether it spools the turbo any faster than other types of BOV is not what we are discussing .

Now take your typical turbo owner with a Greddy RS or similar BOV and plumb the BC to the UIM and set start boost to 8psi .
What pressure do you think the charge pipe will build to at part throttle ? You can't really answer that because the BC does not control the wastegate until you go WOT.

What it did to my setup was build to 20psi under part throttle at about 5000 rpm which , if you just opened the throttle a little more , sent a sudden rush of air to the engine making it damn near impossible to accurately control the throttle . The only time that I found this to be a concern was 1/2 way around a corner . I considered this enough of a problem to do something about it because I like my car and want to stay alive .

I believe EVERY Greddy owner with a cheap diaphram BOV (MOST Greddy owners) and his BC hooked into the UIM will have this issue. Although if they set their 'start boost' to say 1 psi , the problem will not be nearly as bad . But that is not "Right" either is it ?

Sure you can say , "get a decent BOV " and you wont have that issue . But a good BOV is just solving a problem that would not even be there if you plumb it the way I've been suggesting.

 

A good BOV is cheaper than an EBC... so that isn't really a super valid argument.

And even a crappy BOV if tuned right would not have as much of an issue (you just have to recirc it; and then loosen the load on the spring by a LOT.

But I never mentioned BOV's - I said RPM of the turbo... the goal is simple; keep the turbo running as fast as possible at all times...... the excess pressure just then needs to be dealt with.

The only reason why we have vacuum and boost is because the compressor design is imperfect..... in a perfect world you would be running around at 10 PSI all the time.

 

This is what I mean - you actually have to tune it to solve a problem .

What about the guys who want to run VTA - my way would be better for them right ?

 

Ok you win... for retarded people; your way is better..... LOLZ

 

for retards only LOL

 

wow,

i sometimes learn some much here. and i just did again, but walk away confused! thanks..

beers

 

LOL swoope


Kane - did you see what Ngos' car was doing at the socal dyno day ? Surging really bad with that VTA BOV on - this trick would help that I'm sure ...

 

It's stall not surge.....

your talking about the whirr whirr whirr after he lets off right?

 

i think so - yeah that fluttering noise . thought that was called surge ?

Had a word with NGO - seems I was mistaken . The noise is just his BOV doing it's job - IE letting the excess pressure go at part throttle .

 

yeah that's what the HKS does at low load
sounds weird