t60-1 vs. GT35R
#26
Originally Posted by RX8-TX
Dave....out of curiosity...lets say for example that I've got an engine that flows something like this:
4,000 rpm - 13lb/min
4,500 rpm - 15lb/min
5,000 rpm - 17lb/min
5,500 rpm - 19lb/min
6,000 rpm - 22lb/min
6,500 rpm - 24lb/min
7.000 rpm - 27lb/min
7,500 rpm - 28lb/min
8,000 rpm - 29lb/min
8,500 rpm - 30lb/min
Also, pretend for a moment that the spread from 2,000 rpm & 4,000 rpm goes from 7lb/min all the way up to 13lb/min. However, I am not concerned about that portion of the powerband for some obscure reason. And I just want to pump in air most efficiently between 4 & 8K5 rpms.
Based on the 2 maps you posted, how do you determine which compressor is a better match -and at what pressure level? And how do you easily determine pressure levels from just looking at the map? Or is it simply a product of having spent countless hours going through maps before?
Thanks!
4,000 rpm - 13lb/min
4,500 rpm - 15lb/min
5,000 rpm - 17lb/min
5,500 rpm - 19lb/min
6,000 rpm - 22lb/min
6,500 rpm - 24lb/min
7.000 rpm - 27lb/min
7,500 rpm - 28lb/min
8,000 rpm - 29lb/min
8,500 rpm - 30lb/min
Also, pretend for a moment that the spread from 2,000 rpm & 4,000 rpm goes from 7lb/min all the way up to 13lb/min. However, I am not concerned about that portion of the powerband for some obscure reason. And I just want to pump in air most efficiently between 4 & 8K5 rpms.
Based on the 2 maps you posted, how do you determine which compressor is a better match -and at what pressure level? And how do you easily determine pressure levels from just looking at the map? Or is it simply a product of having spent countless hours going through maps before?
Thanks!
this stuff might help:
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turboflow.html
but based on rotary specific experience, use a gt35r, 60-1, 62-1, gt37 for 300-400 whp... they will all give you very similar performance and hp/psi numbers at 12-15psi ranges. specific to the rx8, you might want to think about the hifi because space is limited.
and if compressor calculations weren't bad enough, you can tweak the hell out of everything (by as much as 100hp or more) by changing the turbine side! that's right--same compressor, 100 hp difference! there are tons of turbine wheel trims and a/r's to choose from. you can have the very same turbo spool up very fast and die out in the top end, or spool slow and pull hard to the redline.
if you're a tinkerer, i'd go with the t4 stuff-as opposed to the gt stuff. gt35r has 2 turbine a/r choices...and it's expensive.
60-1 (or a gt37 wheel on a p-trim exhaust turbine), you've got like 5 turbines to choose from (but only 2 are even worth mentioning unless you're drag racing o,p), and then 4 or 5 a/r's each. that's a LOT of versatility and it's dirt cheap. 60-1, .81 undivided or .84 divided should be a good all around setup for the renesis motor. for quick spool and less hp, go to an o-trim. for more hp go with a larger a/r p-trim.
#27
Originally Posted by RX8PR
quitarjunkie,
the new GT37 is the same frame size of the GT35?
the wheel size is between a 60-1 and 62-1?
thank you!
Manuel
the new GT37 is the same frame size of the GT35?
the wheel size is between a 60-1 and 62-1?
thank you!
Manuel
the gt37 is just the compressor from what i was told. i don't know how garret names all their stuff..it seems to contradict itself at times.
gt35r= gt35 turbine, gt40 compressor, dual ball bearing
gt35/40= 35 hot side, 40 compressor, dual ball bearing.
WTF? as soon as i get a definative answer, i'll share it.
as far as the 37 goes, i don't know what it does compared to the 35, or 62-1. the guy at the turboshop i deal with just said it flowed more than the 60-1, but less then the t66 or gt40.
i shouldn't even be tlaking about this stuff...i haven't slept in 2 days. good night gentlemen.
#28
Bigger is not always better. I have run as big as a T-72 and am now running a 67 mm GT comp wheel with a tang. .96 hotside on my street ported RX-7. The T-72 was very hard to drive as it would not turn on hard untill after 4700 rpm and then hit so hard you could not keep the wheels from spinning going into 3rd with BFG drag radials. Also a smaller turbo will perform better at low boost. I run high boost and cant make any sense out of Guys running large frame turbos and running 15 PSI and not even getting close to the effciency range. I would get the Greddy kit and when the maps can be tuned properly then crank the boost if you have all the supporting mods. That Greddy turbo kit should be good for some decent numbers as a daily driver, when the ECU can be tuned.
If you are really interested go to the single turbo section of the RX-7club.com and search. It will give you some very good info and hopefully save some motors.
If you are really interested go to the single turbo section of the RX-7club.com and search. It will give you some very good info and hopefully save some motors.
#29
sub-zero makes a point. According to the efficiency islands on the compressor map, a GT35R requires a decent amount of pressure to get to that 79%. I would also look at the turbine map of these two turbochargers. They're both equally important. If I could find my fluid mechanics book, I would delve more into the subject of turbomachinery, but I'm tired and I'm waiting for my boss to call so I can actually have a work schedule.
Honestly, I think you could get away with a smaller frame turbocharger. Though it won't flow as much as a GT35R, you could get away with a GT30R in terms of response. I don't have spool times of the T60-1, GT35R or GT30R under heavy load, so I can't make a reasonable scientific comparison. Also look into a hybrid. If I had money, which I don't, I'd love to test out a an HKS GT3037. If those 2.0 liter piston engines can get produce 650 crank hp (probably at least 1.8 bar), I can imagine how a rotary engine would react.
Honestly, I think you could get away with a smaller frame turbocharger. Though it won't flow as much as a GT35R, you could get away with a GT30R in terms of response. I don't have spool times of the T60-1, GT35R or GT30R under heavy load, so I can't make a reasonable scientific comparison. Also look into a hybrid. If I had money, which I don't, I'd love to test out a an HKS GT3037. If those 2.0 liter piston engines can get produce 650 crank hp (probably at least 1.8 bar), I can imagine how a rotary engine would react.
#30
I guess what I am saying is that if you want to run high boost go buy an RX-7. The 8 is a great car but not meant to push it to 500 RWHP( not yet any ways). There is no way that any 8 would keep up with my 7. (unless that 3 rotor car actually runs) I am going with the Greddy kit because it costs very little, as much as my fuel system and ecu on the 7. I hope to tune the 8 when possible to around 12 PSI with proper fuel upgrades,cooling, and ECU tuning. I think the 8 will be an amazing fun ride at around that 11-14 PSI.
#32
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Originally Posted by sub-zero
I guess what I am saying is that if you want to run high boost go buy an RX-7. The 8 is a great car but not meant to push it to 500 RWHP( not yet any ways). There is no way that any 8 would keep up with my 7. (unless that 3 rotor car actually runs) I am going with the Greddy kit because it costs very little, as much as my fuel system and ecu on the 7. I hope to tune the 8 when possible to around 12 PSI with proper fuel upgrades,cooling, and ECU tuning. I think the 8 will be an amazing fun ride at around that 11-14 PSI.
#33
Originally Posted by RX803
Speaking of a 60-1 trim i have a Garrett 60-1 trim Brand new for sale T3/t04S type. has a 4" inlet if anyone is interested.
the 60-1 is about useless on a rotary with a t3 hotside (gt stuff excluded). i bet you can get rid of it on a dsm or honda forum pretty quick though.
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